Well I wouldn't use a stronger rod, I'd just use a nice 6013 which gives a soft ductile weld, with a very smooth surface finish and easy slag release.
I dunno just seems all wrong to clad with a 6010. It's a fast freezing deep penetrating rod.
A 4 or 5mm 6013 will lay metal down a lot faster. Blimey you could even use rutile iron powders.

This will be why the boiler inspector and therefore the insurance provider, also which ever certification body is involved has asked for a competent person.What about using 7018's, much easier to use on vertical & horizontal than 6013's, especially for for an inexperienced mma welder?
This will be why the boiler inspector and therefore the insurance provider, also which ever certification body is involved has asked for a competent person.
A competent person wouldnt need to ask.
On annual strip downs its better to have everything meticulously cleaned up and welded/repaired prior to the visit, its not like throwing an old banger in for an MOT and fixing what it fails on. To get a knock back on a steam boiler inspection is a real kick in the teeth. Second visit is a hydraulic test and thats when the decision is made as to whether the thing will be left running at the same pressure or down rated, thats another load of work.Build up on a steam boiler fire box 9/16 plate
you will need current codings
and weld procedure for buttering if the insurance man is involved
Well I wouldn't use a stronger rod, I'd just use a nice 6013 which gives a soft ductile weld, with a very smooth surface finish and easy slag release.
I dunno just seems all wrong to clad with a 6010. It's a fast freezing deep penetrating rod.
A 4 or 5mm 6013 will lay metal down a lot faster. Blimey you could even use rutile iron powders.
[/QUOTE
ive done a few boiler plate build up "buttering "on traction engine fire boxes, tube plates , barrels doors etc
boiler plate is pretty soft stuff and 6013 is fine for it, dont go daft with big rods if your near a riveted seam as you will end up with more leaks and have to re caulk the seam localy
on the water side pitting can be very deep and needs digging out with carbide burrs , side plate stay bolts repairs were done by washing the riveted heads off with oa torch then blowing the shank out , running a tap through to clean up the threads screwing in the stud with the ends protruding then creating a dummy rivet head by welding then running an air chisel round to define the edge
some of the early boilers are made of iron and 6010 is great for digging
in to old plate for small repairs and
pitting

Im quite familiar with big boilers, both fire tube and water tube. In years gone by Ive opened a few up for classification surveys. Only ever welded inside one once though. It was an emergency due to failing tubes. It wasnt pretty, it wasnt easy, but lasted the full 30 days till we could get a proper bloke to sort it. Sometimes needs must.They are eagle eyed, some of these things are so big you can ride a bike around the inside and they will still find the smallest of pitsOn annual strip downs its better to have everything meticulously cleaned up and welded/repaired prior to the visit, its not like throwing an old banger in for an MOT and fixing what it fails on. To get a knock back on a steam boiler inspection is a real kick in the teeth. Second visit is a hydraulic test and thats when the decision is made as to whether the thing will be left running at the same pressure or down rated, thats another load of work.
Bob
