charlysays
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- 397
- Location
- UK, Wales
Thought it was time to post a thread about this.
Had some fantastic advice on my other thread "first respray tips" so thanks everyone.
Here's the project car.
It's my daily. Runs on WVO, has been really reliable and comfy and surprisingly is better underneath than most other w202s I've had.
It was only ever intended to be a parts car but was hurriedly MOTd 3 yrs ago when my c250 TD sport with big turbo and remap was smashed when I ran a red light by accident. My other sport spec one developed starting issues and major electrical issues after the footwell filled up with water, so I generally feel bereffed of a nice looking w202 now and they are now rare cars.
Low market value but I have realised they are worth a lot to me, like £1500 fuel savings per year plus comfort and reliability.
I think you'll all agree it looks appaling and I can do no wrong.
I have lots of spare panels with less rust so I'm painted then on trestles ATM but will paint the doors and tailgate in situ etc.
I've been flapper discing/ needle scaling any corrosion. Welding what needs welding and using phosphoric acid 45% to eat any remaining corrosion from craters, then two coats of bilt hamber electrox primer by brush just on the bare metal bits then bilt hamber high bild. Stone chip rollered onto wheel arch lips etc. I'm only spot repairing panels and feathering it all out with 600 grit, will get rid of as much lacquer as possible. Basecoat seems really thin so might end up with most of that gone too especially on the roof.
Then two coats of hmg nisocoat 2 jet black gloss.
This a 2k non isocyanate paint with similar performance to 2k polyurethane.
It doesn't seem to react with anything even when hosed on. I've done test spots over old cellulose, Merc oe basecoat and feathered lacquer, bilt hamber electrox , high bild and upol high 5. As such it seems an ideal paint for a DIY blow over. Goes on with really good coverage. Even one coat is enough to blot out white primer.
I've accepted the fact I'm a noob at this so mistakes will happen. The only thing I have experience with is surface finishing from working as a boat builder and spot rust repairs and welding after owning rusty cars for my whole driving life. I've sorted my compressor setup well though so as long as I get 2-3 good coats on the panels without fisheyes etc, most other issues can be worked around by flatting, polishing or even a recoat.
I've been very happy with the gun finish, reasurrance from HMG that air fed is not required to spray it with hvlp especially doing one or two panels at a time (they said a respirator with apf of 10 or 20 would be ok so I'm using a 3m 6800 with abek2p3 filters with apf of 50).
I'm using universal 2k slow thinner with it as it does flash off quickly. I think painting a whole side of a car would be challenging.
Here are some pics.
Had some fantastic advice on my other thread "first respray tips" so thanks everyone.
Here's the project car.
It's my daily. Runs on WVO, has been really reliable and comfy and surprisingly is better underneath than most other w202s I've had.
It was only ever intended to be a parts car but was hurriedly MOTd 3 yrs ago when my c250 TD sport with big turbo and remap was smashed when I ran a red light by accident. My other sport spec one developed starting issues and major electrical issues after the footwell filled up with water, so I generally feel bereffed of a nice looking w202 now and they are now rare cars.
Low market value but I have realised they are worth a lot to me, like £1500 fuel savings per year plus comfort and reliability.
I think you'll all agree it looks appaling and I can do no wrong.
I have lots of spare panels with less rust so I'm painted then on trestles ATM but will paint the doors and tailgate in situ etc.
I've been flapper discing/ needle scaling any corrosion. Welding what needs welding and using phosphoric acid 45% to eat any remaining corrosion from craters, then two coats of bilt hamber electrox primer by brush just on the bare metal bits then bilt hamber high bild. Stone chip rollered onto wheel arch lips etc. I'm only spot repairing panels and feathering it all out with 600 grit, will get rid of as much lacquer as possible. Basecoat seems really thin so might end up with most of that gone too especially on the roof.
Then two coats of hmg nisocoat 2 jet black gloss.
This a 2k non isocyanate paint with similar performance to 2k polyurethane.
It doesn't seem to react with anything even when hosed on. I've done test spots over old cellulose, Merc oe basecoat and feathered lacquer, bilt hamber electrox , high bild and upol high 5. As such it seems an ideal paint for a DIY blow over. Goes on with really good coverage. Even one coat is enough to blot out white primer.
I've accepted the fact I'm a noob at this so mistakes will happen. The only thing I have experience with is surface finishing from working as a boat builder and spot rust repairs and welding after owning rusty cars for my whole driving life. I've sorted my compressor setup well though so as long as I get 2-3 good coats on the panels without fisheyes etc, most other issues can be worked around by flatting, polishing or even a recoat.
I've been very happy with the gun finish, reasurrance from HMG that air fed is not required to spray it with hvlp especially doing one or two panels at a time (they said a respirator with apf of 10 or 20 would be ok so I'm using a 3m 6800 with abek2p3 filters with apf of 50).
I'm using universal 2k slow thinner with it as it does flash off quickly. I think painting a whole side of a car would be challenging.
Here are some pics.