Hi All, a new member here looking for advice on a Meddings Pacera MF4 MK1 rebuild. I bought it on a whim the other day while idling viewing ebay when in the pub. I started a thread over on a wood forum but now I need to cross-post. People have been helpful but as I've dug myself deeper, I am in need of more specific advice on metal mechanicking and google suggests that this place is the source of most knowledge on Medding drill rebuilds. I did get some useful general rebuild advice on the other forum from a certain brewdexta of this parish who seems to pop in there sometimes; however I'm chasing down some more specific information on the gears and hoping either he, or another knowledgable person can help. This is my first machinery rebuild and I don't have a clue.
Firstly, a few pictures.
The drill in two parts in my campervan
Lifting it up onto the old workmate without the use of hoists was interesting
THe motor is single phase, and as far as I can determine doesn't have a capacitor
From there is was a case of taking things apart and giving it a bit of a clean.
With the back off you can see the casting needs a bit of a clean and the post is rusted in place. I eventually removed that with a piece of 40 grit, an extension bar from my socket set in the hole and a lot of applied pressure from a mallet. The cabling has now been disconnected and disposed of.
The return spring is OK, if somewhat in need of a clean.
The gear box pulley proved to be a pain to remove. I was constantly aware that I could chew it up quite easily and have to spend a significant amount of money to replace it. Eventually advice from brewdexta aided in removing it (plus a hex socket bit, plenty of wd40, 2 gear pullers and use of a blowtorch)
With more wrangling I got the head of the gear box.
This is where my current problem is. I opened up the gear box because while the motor ran intermittently, high gear could not be engaged. Looking at the gears which sit on the quill shaft the bottom gear looks wrong to, my non-mechanical background, eye.
Should there not be more to the teeth on the smaller gear? I've tried playing around with the gear selector back in the casing but it doesn't seem to reach high enough to engage with the thin profile.
Other than old oil in the gearbox there didn't seem to be anything else that would be the remains of broken gears.
From the lack of bits in the box and clean profile on the gear I can only say that this is how it was made.
In the experience of others, is this how the gear is supposed to look? I have dropped an email to Meddings but the engineer is currently busy. If I do need a new one it will be £85 all in. Which is almost as much as I paid for the drill.
Or should I just be tuning the gear selector in a different way so it engages better?
Ultimately this is not urgent. I have far more important things to do with my time, like clean up my old campervan so I can sell it; but this seems more satisfactory at the moment. If nothing else, cleaning the rust of doesn't leave holes in the bodywork, unlike the van.
Firstly, a few pictures.
The drill in two parts in my campervan
Lifting it up onto the old workmate without the use of hoists was interesting
THe motor is single phase, and as far as I can determine doesn't have a capacitor
From there is was a case of taking things apart and giving it a bit of a clean.
With the back off you can see the casting needs a bit of a clean and the post is rusted in place. I eventually removed that with a piece of 40 grit, an extension bar from my socket set in the hole and a lot of applied pressure from a mallet. The cabling has now been disconnected and disposed of.
The return spring is OK, if somewhat in need of a clean.
The gear box pulley proved to be a pain to remove. I was constantly aware that I could chew it up quite easily and have to spend a significant amount of money to replace it. Eventually advice from brewdexta aided in removing it (plus a hex socket bit, plenty of wd40, 2 gear pullers and use of a blowtorch)
With more wrangling I got the head of the gear box.
This is where my current problem is. I opened up the gear box because while the motor ran intermittently, high gear could not be engaged. Looking at the gears which sit on the quill shaft the bottom gear looks wrong to, my non-mechanical background, eye.
Should there not be more to the teeth on the smaller gear? I've tried playing around with the gear selector back in the casing but it doesn't seem to reach high enough to engage with the thin profile.
Other than old oil in the gearbox there didn't seem to be anything else that would be the remains of broken gears.
From the lack of bits in the box and clean profile on the gear I can only say that this is how it was made.
In the experience of others, is this how the gear is supposed to look? I have dropped an email to Meddings but the engineer is currently busy. If I do need a new one it will be £85 all in. Which is almost as much as I paid for the drill.
Or should I just be tuning the gear selector in a different way so it engages better?
Ultimately this is not urgent. I have far more important things to do with my time, like clean up my old campervan so I can sell it; but this seems more satisfactory at the moment. If nothing else, cleaning the rust of doesn't leave holes in the bodywork, unlike the van.