mamod steam engine rattles

[BrokenBiker]

i have a mamod engine, used to be my grandfathers, then given to my father and has been in my posession for about 8 years.

when it was given to me the pressure relief valve was damaged and leaking meaning it couldnt build pressure, it was replaced with a whistle that wasnt for this engine which again, hindered it running. i have since replaced it with a repaired pressure releief valve and that works well again minus the fact i havent got the fuel tray for it so i usuall run a torch on its lowest setting and set it far enough away that its not getting too hot too qucikly, to try and mimick running it on meths.

i have been deathly ill over the last few days and upon feeling a bit more energetic today i decided to get it out and have a play, maybe clean it up a bit and ive noticed 2 things. the pipe leading to the ram has come loose from the steam chamber, the soldered joint has failed, no big deal i can fix that easilly, however the other noticable thing is that there is now a rattle coming from inside the steam chamber.

does anyone know what may cause this as i didnt think there was anything inside there. im wondering if its just a bit of solder that dropped off when this joint broke but that seems unlikely. im hesitant to sweat the chamber apart to remove it, but everything else looks intact. the rivet holding the mount for the spinlde is still solid and thats all i can see that enters the chamber.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

The rattle is the broken end of the steam pipe falling into the cylinder.

The pipe is easy to solder, I have one engine with the same rattle.

Mamod Steam Engine Guru

Mamod steam engines ~ Spares and parts with FREE delivery in UK. Text 0777 552 1452 for advice.

www.modelenthusiasts.com

Speak to Trevor for parts.

 

[Porkypine]

I had one that had something rattling inside the boiler it was a bit of solder that'd come adrift, it wouldn't shake out thru the filler or safety valve hole as a bit too big.
I would have made no difference to the running of it, but anyway I unsoldered the boiler end cap, tipped the offending lump out and soldered the end back on again.

 

[BrokenBiker]

ok thats a bit of a relief then knowing its not something important.

i will be soldering the pipe back on probably tomorrow as ive run out of solder or just cant find it so need to get more.

may sweat the end off and clean it out as plan on fully refurbing it once its all working and will require the rivet on top being removed to get the spindle mount off so that will also drop inside and need removing.

im assuming just normal plumbers solder adn some decent flux is sufficient? i have a mapp torch as a heat source

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

may sweat the end off and clean it out as plan on fully refurbing it once its all working and will require the rivet on top being removed to get the spindle mount off so that will also drop inside and need removing.

im assuming just normal plumbers solder adn some decent flux is sufficient? i have a mapp torch as a heat source

Clean with 0000 wire wool, both boiler and pipe.

Add a decent flux, warm the boiler and move the flame closer to the pipe, apply the solder and let it run round the pipe.

Allow to cool, re clean and test.

You do need a tray to heat the boiler from under the length.

 

[BrokenBiker]

Clean with 0000 wire wool, both boiler and pipe.

Add a decent flux, warm the boiler and move the flame closer to the pipe, apply the solder and let it run round the pipe.

Allow to cool, re clean and test.

You do need a tray to heat the boiler from under the length.

soldering isnt an issue for me, just want to make sure standard plumbers solder is going to be ok and it isnt going to need any sort of brazing rod.

i had a small solid fuel tray for it but it was well past using and i do remember as a child my grandfather using meths to run it for me so the few times ive run it since fixing the relief valve ive just used the torch on its lowest setting proped underneath, then once its going i move the torch closer or futher to get a consistent speed from it. im getting similar heat output and its heating underneath from the chamebr just like it would with a tray. havent really run it for more than a few mins at a time as every time it ran something new presented itself like the spindle binding due to a bit of corrosion, then the ram appeared to be bent so straightened that, now i have the issue with this steam pipe and ive also noticed its loose at the ram as well so think i am going to pop the rivet, fully disassemble, clean the cylinder out and then paint, polish and rebuild, then will solder the pipe back on and see how well it runs. i have just ordered a meths burner, a new solid fuel tray and a correctly fitting whistle for it also.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

soldering isnt an issue for me, just want to make sure standard plumbers solder is going to be ok and it isnt going to need any sort of brazing rod.

i had a small solid fuel tray for it but it was well past using and i do remember as a child my grandfather using meths to run it for me so the few times ive run it since fixing the relief valve ive just used the torch on its lowest setting proped underneath, then once its going i move the torch closer or futher to get a consistent speed from it. im getting similar heat output and its heating underneath from the chamebr just like it would with a tray. havent really run it for more than a few mins at a time as every time it ran something new presented itself like the spindle binding due to a bit of corrosion, then the ram appeared to be bent so straightened that, now i have the issue with this steam pipe and ive also noticed its loose at the ram as well so think i am going to pop the rivet, fully disassemble, clean the cylinder out and then paint, polish and rebuild, then will solder the pipe back on and see how well it runs. i have just ordered a meths burner, a new solid fuel tray and a correctly fitting whistle for it also.

The engine never had a whistle, just the safety valve, a short version.

Mamod steam engines, and Marine engines.

Mamod steam engines and steam toys, Mamod TWK1, Mamod Marine engine, Mamod Minor 2, Mamod Minor 1 Steam engine, Mamod SL1 steam train.

www.mikes-steam-engines.co.uk

 

[BrokenBiker]

dont suppose you would know a model number for this one? from what i can tell its an MM1 from around 1950, which would make sense with it being my grandfathers and my father telling me its older than him. he was born is 63

 

[colnerov]

Am i right that the solid fuel pellets were banned from being for sold.

 

[BrokenBiker]

Am i right that the solid fuel pellets were banned from being for sold.

couldnt tell you, i can remember my grandfather always insisting on using meths to run it, and my father just used to grab a handfull of wood shavings but it always ran faster on meths

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

dont suppose you would know a model number for this one? from what i can tell its an MM1 from around 1950, which would make sense with it being my grandfathers and my father telling me its older than him. he was born is 63

MM1, about 1950 ish, with alloy fly wheel.

Should run on a single wick green burner.
Or a rare slim burner.

Here's one of mine.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Am i right that the solid fuel pellets were banned from being for sold.

No, but you need a license for them.

 

[BrokenBiker]

MM1, about 1950 ish, with alloy fly wheel.

Should run on a single wick green burner.
Or a rare slim burner.


View attachment 485066

Here's one of mine.

that burner looks like the one my grandfather used to use. is that a drain plug or some sort of water level/fill point on the end of yours? mine hasnt got that

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

that burner looks like the one my grandfather used to use. is that a drain plug or some sort of water level/fill point on the end of yours? mine hasnt got that

That is a rare slim buner, Forrest classic some times have them in.

yes it is a level plug on mine.
The other one of mine does not have one.

 

[BrokenBiker]

That is a rare slim buner, Forrest classic some times have them in.

yes it is a level plug on mine.
The other one of mine does not have one.

seems that plug was intorduced around 1975.

ill keep an eye out for the burner would be nice to have. the one ive just oredered seems a lot larger than that, wider and deeper. it may not be genuine to be fair

 

[BrokenBiker]

just found this, looks the same?

Pardon our interruption...

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

just found this, looks the same?

Pardon our interruption...

Wisco Meths burner, yes it will do.


https://www.forest-classics.co.uk/ Peek here, he may have a used one.

 

[dave h 2]

ok thats a bit of a relief then knowing its not something important.

i will be soldering the pipe back on probably tomorrow as ive run out of solder or just cant find it so need to get more.

may sweat the end off and clean it out as plan on fully refurbing it once its all working and will require the rivet on top being removed to get the spindle mount off so that will also drop inside and need removing.

im assuming just normal plumbers solder adn some decent flux is sufficient? i have a mapp torch as a heat source

Don't use modern lead free solder, that one will be old school leaded solder and they don't mix.

 

[colnerov]

No, but you need a license for them.

Ahh, thanks for that, I knew there was something about them, mine is Meths powered.

 

[BrokenBiker]

Don't use modern lead free solder, that one will be old school leaded solder and they don't mix.

would this be an issue if its completely stripped and all old solder removed first?