DD is so worthwhile a watch for most power tool repairs, learnt so much from his YT videos and put some of it into practice.I hadn't - watching now and it looks good. Thanks
Knowledgeable, easy to follow and giving, bless him.
- Thread starter Nomad
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Knowledgeable, easy to follow and giving, bless him.
When looking to drill holes your existing cordless should manage, its a good tool and is rated, so I'm not sure what's going on with it, why you are experiencing the lack of grunt.
As good as your drill is, nothing really beats an SDS + for most domestic and commercial work and a SDS-Max for jobs like demolition work, although some SDS+are capable of light chisling and chirping depending on quality of bits.
I shifted to Makita cordless tools a number of years ago, no real regrets and learnt how to rebuild their batteries or decent copies.
I do have some exceptions to my cordless tools so for example my cordless multi tool is a Dewalt, it was on an offer so purchased it, it was bare bones that didn't bother me, I have a number of Makita batteries so use a battery adapter for the Dewalt.
I have and use a couple of corded 15+ years Bosch jigsaws still in use.
I recently purchased a corded 240v SDS+ drill. I really wanted a Makita, couldn't afford new so was prepared to buy 2nd hand.
My logic being it can be more worthwhile buying 2nd hand branded then new and crap, but nothing corded and right voltage came up.
Plan B, do some research and prevaricating and did I, silly really, its an SDS+drill, not that important.
In the end I settled on this.
There are a couple of missing design features on this model I have become use to on other drills but I can live without them or adapt for my needs.
Recently use it to punch a 22mm hole through a 12in thick brick wall with no struggle but I am using quality bits after getting advise off these forums.
So your Makita packs a punch or should but an SDS + will get you through most things, especially a corded one but so should a 18v SDS+ cordless.
I think trying a known-good brand of bits and being diligent with pilot holes is the move for now. But damn do I want an SDS!
qwakers
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fakita
or 2nd hand genuine...
Brushless Cordless dual function hammer SDS+ Rotary Drill Body For Makita 18V | eBay UK
Battery: For Makita battery (Not included). Turn the switch to transform functions. Damping auxiliary handle and ergonomic handle make it easier to use. Product size: 31 8.5 22cm.
www.ebay.co.uk
or 2nd hand genuine...
Ton-up
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My newer batteries dont fit my BHP451, only older ones. Have you found that.
There is a raised plastic stop on the inside of the battery holder of the drill where it slides, sharp chisel, utility knife, remove the stop make it smooth.
I don't know if it works for all Makita tools and newer batteries but works on mine.
Check this out.
Ton-up
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Oh ok, thats worth a look. I just know this and pick up one of the older batteries rather than a newer one.
Why did Makita do this? Is there differences in the batteries?
I have newer Makita drills, but for heavier jobs, use the DHP. I reckon it is one of the best 18v tools Makita have made.
Why did Makita do this? Is there differences in the batteries?
I have newer Makita drills, but for heavier jobs, use the DHP. I reckon it is one of the best 18v tools Makita have made.
Nomad
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Battry incompatible? A mate is a plumber, 10 years ago he found new batteries wouldn't fit his old tools (or vice versa?), all worked fine when he removed the tab.
He was told the newer system had better overload / over-temp battery protection, the older tools - with tab - didn't. That's unconfirmed.
We modified all his old tools, it caused him no problems but he was a light user.
If you do a lot of heavy duty drilling it might be different for you.
He was told the newer system had better overload / over-temp battery protection, the older tools - with tab - didn't. That's unconfirmed.
We modified all his old tools, it caused him no problems but he was a light user.
If you do a lot of heavy duty drilling it might be different for you.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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Makita do have different battery platforms but they are radically different in design and performance.
As to why for their LXT batteries, depends what you read and understanding.
Like yourself I have a trusted 451 and it's been worked but still going strong having only to replace the chuck.
The 451 came out in the early 2000s, a slider design that allowed their tools to stand upright. At that time only 3amp LXT batteries were available and remained this way for some while.
Then Makita introduced their Star System, a method of charging communication between battery and tool/ battery and charger but also allowed for the larger LXT amp batteries they introduced.
I am presuming at the time they didn't want to introduce a separate tool platform to accommodate these larger batteries, easier to change the battery case design and try prevent consumers strapping a 4-5 amp battery to a tool designed to run a 3amp battery.
But I think mainly it was to do with their introduction of their Star System.
I've been running 5amp batteries on my 451 for a very long time without issue.
The newer star batteries have a better BMS pcb that monitors the voltage on every pair of cells and adjusts charge to each pair to charge the battery evenly.
It also cuts off the output of the battery if any pair of cells goes below a certain voltage to prevent over discharge of the battery.
I think this is around 3.4v but its hard to measure because the voltage bounces back up after it cuts out.
I have had numerous LXT star tools apart and so far I haven't seen anything to indicate tool monitoring.
The 3rd pin is there and sometimes connected but there is no pcb or extra components in the tool itself. Just a trigger switch and the motor.
On brushless tools the 3rd pin is connected into the sealed motor control unit. It may do something but as far as I can see all the work is done in the battery itself.
It also cuts off the output of the battery if any pair of cells goes below a certain voltage to prevent over discharge of the battery.
I think this is around 3.4v but its hard to measure because the voltage bounces back up after it cuts out.
I have had numerous LXT star tools apart and so far I haven't seen anything to indicate tool monitoring.
The 3rd pin is there and sometimes connected but there is no pcb or extra components in the tool itself. Just a trigger switch and the motor.
On brushless tools the 3rd pin is connected into the sealed motor control unit. It may do something but as far as I can see all the work is done in the battery itself.
Sure, I'm not sure it is tool monitoring, their star system is more to do with the charger and the battery.
On that note I did a quick recap, the original Makita Blue Charger the DC18RA and their updated Black DC18RC took care of a compatibility issue between some batteries and the Blue charger, loading the battery on to the charger.
Even tho' ostensibly they are the same charger in function, I'm not convinced, I have found the original blue charger to be faster, more reliable, better at what it does but both work with their star system.
Agroshield
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I had to dig these out, see photos.Just had a look. Yes, you're right, it's the 5 amps that dont fit. The 3 amps do.
Be careful, it might not be necessary to remove the tool stop.
Doing so won't do the drill any harm but the plastic lug might no be the actual issue but the battery case.
There was a compatibility/fitting issue with some of the old 1830/1840 batteries depending on the battery case and the charger and it is easy to be confused as to what the issue is and how best to resolve it. Removing the lug will sort most issues.
Photo 1, excuse quality of photos, the top battery is an 1840, the bottom an 1830, I never had an issue with 1830s although some users were reporting they couldn't slide the battery in the charger or the tool.
The 1840 case was a design issue, deliberate or not and I've circled the issue, its a simple fix, again sorted with something sharp, a Dremel and maybe a small file for deburring.
Part of the molding of the case was to high, just by a mm or 2, trimming it resolved the issue, again I have circled the fix.
The updated Black battery charger, the DC18RC took care of all compatibility fitment issues for all their LXT 18v batteries but some issues remained slotting some batteries in to the original Blue battery charger, the DCRA18 or the tool itself.
Those are great links @Agroshield, must give it a go.
Those hacks tho' are to override battery balance/monitoring issues not with battery case fitment.
If a makita battery shows an error you get 3 attempts to charge it before it bricks itself.
I've had it happen a couple of times on old batteries. I stopped after the first error and it was down to a cell pair being under voltage.
I charged the cell pair with a phone charger power supply to get it back to the same voltage as the other cells then let the makita charger take over.
The batteries have been ok since that.
Thanks @qwakers - job done!oh and fit this chuck...
fits all makita lxt drills and is a better design than the one for the older dhp drills.Makita 763252-1 Keyless Drill Chuck 13 Bhp448/ 763252-1 from Spare Parts World
DESIGN : Industrial design for long life CAPACITY : Accepts bits up to a 1/2" shank DURABILITY : High quality steel construction for added durability CONVENIENCE : Easy to install for added user convenience INCLUDES : Drill Chuck BUY NOW OVERVIEW ABOUT Makita Drill Chucks are engineered for iwww.sparepartsworld.co.uk
Needless to say it was a bit of a b****r.
I could not shift the LH thread locking screw. Slept on that one (rather than trashing the slot in my frustration) and came up with this which worked a treat:
A bit of copper bar (about 12mm dia) with a dimple on the end to match the screw head and attached to a 5mm stainless steel rod for a handle.
(Copper has very good thermal conductivity, stainless is pretty low.)
I heated the copper until glowing bright red then put it down inside the chuck onto the head of that screw.
At this point I had dismantled the chuck, but I think it would work with the jaws in place and opened to max.
After about 15 seconds I removed it and tried the screw - yep easy to undo. Clearly the heat was enough to destroy the threadlock.
Feeling smug I reassembled the chuck for the Allen key trick ...... At this point it was my intention to keep the old chuck as a 'might be useful one day' item.
No joy at all with a 1/2" allen key and lump hammer.
Oh well, nothing for it but to chop the old one.
Thanks for the help & suggestions.
