- Thread starter Nomad
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I'm not suggesting incinerate but the application of a blast of heat directly down the chuck jaws might release any loctite used and then a smack with an impact driver.
Of course that is just the removal of the screw, ( where fitted ), but is generally that which gives the most trouble when replacing a drill chuck.
Any advice on decent allen/hex keys--brand--where from?
That's a shame.
I have one of those , and one of the brushless ones ,,, the brushed one is very very low power so dont be expecting too much , it will get things done eventually but you wont be cutting rebar with it all day ,,, the brushless one is as good as any cordless tool without spending silly money.Rain stopped play outside today (and I'm waiting for yesterdays plastering to dry before I can paint it - then I watch the paint dry..)
Next up, BGA452 grinder, working fine but was said to be low on power compared to mains grinders. New brushes fitted when I'm doing the other tools.
View attachment 514903
Super quick and easy to do: pop out dust covers on the hand grip, undo flat-head brush holder, swap brushes
If anyone has any helpful info about Makita cordless tools feel free to add commments here rather than start a new thread @Turbo
Tangentially related, since we were talking about drill chucks, and it is an 18V LXT... I have known and loved a few different LXT tools, but the DHP486 combi drill is making me miserable.
I don't know if Makita got it wrong by making it compact, or if I'm not holding the thing right, but it strains the hell out of my hands and rubs/pinched them too, I just can't keep a solid hold of the thing, even with the side handle.
As well as that, the power I was expecting just doesn't seem to be there. Torque is no problem, it doesn't seem to lag at all, but I have to really lean into it to get anywhere in masonry, which adds to the fatigue. I was expecting it would match or beat the ~40 year old made in West Germany Bosch it was replacing, but doesn't feel like it.
Is there user error here? Is there something inside in particular I should be checking to replace?
I don't know if Makita got it wrong by making it compact, or if I'm not holding the thing right, but it strains the hell out of my hands and rubs/pinched them too, I just can't keep a solid hold of the thing, even with the side handle.
As well as that, the power I was expecting just doesn't seem to be there. Torque is no problem, it doesn't seem to lag at all, but I have to really lean into it to get anywhere in masonry, which adds to the fatigue. I was expecting it would match or beat the ~40 year old made in West Germany Bosch it was replacing, but doesn't feel like it.
Is there user error here? Is there something inside in particular I should be checking to replace?
Nomad
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A DHP458 combi drill was one of the first "heavy duty" tools I got and I found it comfortable but very heavy especially with a larger battery fitted. The wrist support is essential when using a larger auger on timber - torque is more than adequate.
I'm a tall chap with big hands (& feet as one girlfriend was very keen to point out for some reason) and the grip is comfortable, now you mention it I do wonder if "one size fits all" actually works for drills??
Most of my work is timber and metal but the times I've used it on masonary it's worked fine, I've no experience with other brushless makers to compare...
I'm a tall chap with big hands (& feet as one girlfriend was very keen to point out for some reason) and the grip is comfortable, now you mention it I do wonder if "one size fits all" actually works for drills??
Most of my work is timber and metal but the times I've used it on masonary it's worked fine, I've no experience with other brushless makers to compare...
I think it must be that the 486 is just as heavy, if not heavier, but also compact - the handle is too skinny for the weight so I have to death grip it.
I'm a size 11 as far as welding gloves go, so not petite. Maybe I'll try again with a less powerful but more ergonomic model...
I'm a size 11 as far as welding gloves go, so not petite. Maybe I'll try again with a less powerful but more ergonomic model...
I always get the corded one out for masonry.
Ive one and its mighty ,,,, not a thing to be taken lightly at all , yes its heavy but it works well. Its not sds heavy hitting but its not an sds , I go for the Hilti when I need that , it will put the odd rawl plug in though
That's also what I was thinking, it was just about alright for a TV bracket and shelves on interior walls which I think were concrete? But was awful for 8x60mm holes into brick recently.
I wondered if an SDS was/still is a worthwhile purchase, or if I was just doing it wrong or expecting too much.
an sds is a different beast ,,,, but when things get that serious Im looking for one with a cord on it.
Agroshield
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On a non-SDS machine, the quality of the bit can make a difference.
I am a fan of the blue Bosch multi-material bits for use in a cordless. On hard stuff, it can help to pilot drill with a smaller diameter first.
Nomad
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Todays project was a DHR202 SDS drill, history unknown, looks used but it seems to work fine.
Main niggle for me was the rubber boot over the trigger was torn, and if I'm changing that I'd might as well do it all.
I've not used this in anger yet, hopefully it will be a big improvement on the hammer action on my other drill/drivers.
Stripping was very simple with no gotchas :
Pop out the brush covers on the grip, remove brush holder caps, remove brushes.
Remove the nose from the machine (4 screws)
Cleaning the commutator on the motor is very easy with the nose removed.
To split the body :
Remove the bottom 2 screws to release the battery holder (pay attention - small parts can drop out when you seperate the holder)
Undo all other screws and split the 2 halves (lots of screws but I think they are all the same length).
If removing the trigger, pay attention to how the forward / reverse / locking bar is orientated.
For cleaning, 90% of the dust on this was behind the nose piece, very little actually inside the grip housing.
Reverse the procedure to rebuild it.
With hindsight, I have another SDS with a similar torn boot on the trigger and I might just rip the torn rubber off that - it was worth cleaning this when it was apart but it didn't need anything...
Main niggle for me was the rubber boot over the trigger was torn, and if I'm changing that I'd might as well do it all.
I've not used this in anger yet, hopefully it will be a big improvement on the hammer action on my other drill/drivers.
Stripping was very simple with no gotchas :
Pop out the brush covers on the grip, remove brush holder caps, remove brushes.
Remove the nose from the machine (4 screws)
Cleaning the commutator on the motor is very easy with the nose removed.
To split the body :
Remove the bottom 2 screws to release the battery holder (pay attention - small parts can drop out when you seperate the holder)
Undo all other screws and split the 2 halves (lots of screws but I think they are all the same length).
If removing the trigger, pay attention to how the forward / reverse / locking bar is orientated.
For cleaning, 90% of the dust on this was behind the nose piece, very little actually inside the grip housing.
Reverse the procedure to rebuild it.
With hindsight, I have another SDS with a similar torn boot on the trigger and I might just rip the torn rubber off that - it was worth cleaning this when it was apart but it didn't need anything...
Currently using some carbide tipped Makita bits that either came with the drill or were a free gift with another purchase, don't have anything else to compare them to, but I have used Bosch Professional metal bits which seem good, so might try their masonry bits too.
I'm ashamed to say I did get lazy with the brick and skip the pilot holes. Probably would have helped out a lot...
I have a Makita 18v LXT SDS drill and it’s very capable. Not quite on the same level as my Bosch corded but very close.
Nomad
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I hadn't - watching now and it looks good. Thanks
Well, since everybody is twisting my arm so damn hard, I guess I HAVE to buy another power tool! Oh the humanity.
A BHP451 I bought recently. I have refurbished a couple of these before for our Men's Shed.
They are a beast of a drill and will bite back if the bit jams. If we need to use a big tenon cutter this is the one we use.
This one is mine and it will be getting a refurbishment in the future.
A bit bigger than a standard duty Dhp 453!
Regarding the rubber strips on them - they can be glued back down using super glue. Just need to degrease everything thoroughly with thinners.
