Lighting for workshop

[Shox Dr]

I need to replace the lighting in my workshop (4mx8m). And lighting technology, seems to turn a new corner ever month at the moment. So I would like to fit the best I can within reason. I'm not too bothered on the setup cost as that's one off. More interested in the running costs. Workshop will be in constant use so lights that take time to "warm up" will be OK.

Any suggestions











(It's been a while since this has been discussed so instead of dragging an old thread up I thought I'd start a fresh)

 

[piman]

Hello Dr. Shox,

I would have thought that the old fashioned fluorescent is still pretty good, relatively cheap to both run and buy.

Do you have any need of localised lighting for specific work areas?

Alec

 

[rtbcomp]

My main gripe with flourescents is that they have a stroboscopic effect on rotating parts, this can be overcome by localised worklights, the problem with that being our all-knowing politicians have banned the 100w incandescant bulb!

About a year ago a guy from Cambridge University was on the the radio describing daylight LED bulbs with an equivalent light output of a 100w bulb being available in the near future, IMHO that would be the way to go, especially if run off pure DC.

 

[tigler]

For everything LED try here,

www.jcc-lighting.co.uk

 

[Shox Dr]

Don't really want to use Strips again Im fed up of having to change them, Although I dont pay for them.

I was hoping to fit really low running cost units??

 

[piman]

Hello all,

is there a more efficient and practical light source than fluorescents. There shouldn't be a stroboscopic effect as they cured that donkey's years ago with phosphorescent coating. They also don't need changing that often and can be bought in a variety of colours to suit the use.

Alec

 

[the snooper]

politicians have banned the 100w incandescant bulb!.

you can still get those bulbs although they might be reflector bulbs such as a par38 but you would have to go a shop that supplies the entertainment industry such as disco's

 

[brightspark]

3 choices . metal halide a white light .sodium a yellow light or good old flouros

 

[madkayaker]

you can still get stroboscopic effect off switch start fluro's (one with the starter in the side) you can over come that by using high frequency units with electronic control gear and theses are more efficient. LED imho is not there yet for area lighting. If you have the roof hight you can use discharge lighting like metal halide i would avoid sodium as the colour rendering is rubbish

 

[piman]

Hello MK,

I think it's all to do with the tube, how they are struck should make no difference?

Alec

 

[madkayaker]

its to do with the frequancy from the arc the coating on the tube is to prevent UV radiation

 

[the snooper]

you can also get the stroboscopic effect from an incandescent when running on AC due to the 50hz mains frequency some turntables (records) used it to their advantage for setting the exact speed at 45rpm and so on using varispeed.

the white coating on the tube is the flourescent coating and without it, it would only produce uv light the standard white flourescent also has a uv filter so we dont get a tan

 

[rtbcomp]

you can also get the stroboscopic effect from an incandescent when running on AC due to the 50hz mains frequency some turntables (records) used it to their advantage for setting the exact speed at 45rpm and so on using varispeed.

.........

I think they used neon bulbs, not filaments.

 

[the snooper]

nope i had a citronic thames II disco deck and they use a standard 12volt ac bulb

 

[shenion]

you can still get stroboscopic effect off switch start fluro's (one with the starter in the side) you can over come that by using high frequency units with electronic control gear and theses are more efficient.

I replaced all the ballasts on my shop flourescent lights withe electronic ballasts.

The inductive ones flickered when cold, took a long time to warm up and buzzed. The electronic ballast one come right on, no buzz and they don't flicker.

My inductive ballasts had no "starter on the side" I haven't seen those in along time

 

[Shox Dr]

As I said I really wanted to stay away from Strips, as they tend to get hit with long awkward objects lengths of tube etc. . And the fact they don't seem to last very long.

Do the Electronic ones;
Cost less to run.
Last longer
give better light

Because of Ceiling height is 9' I was looking for recessed lighting alternative

 

[voipio]

Fear not regarding availability of incandescent bulbs. There are quite a few places selling them, just not in the high street!

e.g. http://www.ryness.co.uk/search.aspx?searchTerms=100w

I bought a whole boxful of different wattage incandescents. Modern compact fluorescents are not all they're cracked up to be. End of life mercury pollution, radio interference, and a life well short of manufacturers claims, not forgetting slowness to warm up and exaggerated claims when compared with incandescents for light output.

 

[92a]

Workshop Lighting

Our local Senate Electrical had 5' high frequency corrosion proof fittings at switch start prices as the labels had been changed,if you have a local branch might be worth a look? they start straight away and have a rigid plastic cover so are very hard to break and are cheap to run

 

[madkayaker]

you will be able to continue to get 100w bulbs just rought service ones! new fluro's last a lot longer than old ones

Shenion i fitted fittings with starters in the side last week! unless they have gone your side of the pond

 

[brightspark]

the best fittings to get will be weatherproof hf battens using sylvania ts high output tri phosphor light tubes they have long lamp life 25 percent more efficiency than standard bulbs . cool white in colour. 19.000 hours rated ive just changed 150 tubes in a school sports hall 2day