normspanners
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PS In my defence M'laud aston hill is a dual carriageway!!
- Thread starter J.B. Welding
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normspanners
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I did get a bit worried at one point coz I didnt have a horn to blow!! but I could shout though---- coz it has no cab .
Bill Edwards
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I reckon you probably had to change your trousers afterwards! 
J.B. Welding
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ffaarrrppppy noises too?Bill Edwards
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I know somebody who went down a hill in neutral or dipped clutch in an elderly tractor with two passengers in the cab.
It was going well until the diff suddenly locked/seized solid, they all found themselves with their faces smearing the windscreen!
It was going well until the diff suddenly locked/seized solid, they all found themselves with their faces smearing the windscreen!
normspanners
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I reckon you probably had to change your trousers afterwards!
Ha that reminds me of the time I jumped off it wearing shorts, but the throttle is a bar that sticks up at the side about 14" long , not round the steering wheel like most tractors---- well it stuck up ok ---up the leg of my shorts
and came out through my waist band, i was left dangling with no way of getting off it!! whilst giving myself the wedgie of my life .
J.B. Welding
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That's the one mate!
CKJDJK
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Quickest way if you want to be able to use the bell crank for parking brake. Remove split pin on clevis pin and drive the clevis pin half out of the fork on the spring brake then grip with mole grips and pull it out. It will go with a bang so watch out for the pin flying out. Hardhat, gloves and visor will give some protection. Done it a few times.
normspanners
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If the brakes are seized on, you would be better releasing the spring pressure and wind the shoe adjusters off -----all the way, to at least give you a fighting chance of getting the linings off the drums.
J.B. Welding
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>hoping they will not be too bad 
Saturday is the next hit, found some heavy 6x6 UC for the drawy bit-plan to double it up on the pinch point but it's only a 16' bed, 6x6" shouldn't twist in theory. I'm kinda thinking to preserve the spring brake
as a backup plan just in-case for whatever reason
Saturday is the next hit, found some heavy 6x6 UC for the drawy bit-plan to double it up on the pinch point but it's only a 16' bed, 6x6" shouldn't twist in theory. I'm kinda thinking to preserve the spring brake
as a backup plan just in-case for whatever reasonAre you not taking the drums off and taking the halfshafs out anyway?
Woody.v8
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Good point! The bigger conversions iv'e seen they take the diff out and make a blanking plate , cut the half shafts and bolt the flange back on because the wheel bearings still need oil(unless you grease them)
Topleymike
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I am doing a trailer conversion right now. It's a cut down 40 ft step frame low loader now a 30 ft flat low loader. Going to use 250 x250 x 10 box for the drawbar on it!
I always left the diff, took the half shafs out, cut the driving plates off the ends of the half shafts and bolted the plates back on.
If your not having brakes, take the old brake back plates off too, they only hold rust that scrape on the drums.
If your not having brakes, take the old brake back plates off too, they only hold rust that scrape on the drums.
J.B. Welding
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For a trailer just for gathering up round bales from the field to the barn what is the main benefit of removing the diff? Can't see it overheating or causing a lot of drag..is it just cos of the potential for it to all seize up?
Woody.v8
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Weight plus you could get a few bob back in selling it, in saying that what you gain in taking the diff out you will lose in plating the hole up.
If the diff is in and working there is a chance that things get wrapped around the drive flange and cause grief.
If the diff is in and working there is a chance that things get wrapped around the drive flange and cause grief.
J.B. Welding
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Ok thanks, I think the time involved in removing the diff and plating up will outweigh its value but that needs double checking to be sure. If I was making this trailer for a paying customer I think I would be stripping the axel but it's not leaving the farm so it's old materials and high speed-budgeted a day and a half for the whole job! It took about 4 hours to strip the chassis (being a bit sympathetic with the prop and air tanks etc.) and chop it so not doing too bad..looking forward to welding the towing eye (~35mm) to the UC (~8mm). Pretty sad I know 
Bill Edwards
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Unless it's being driven over swaths of hay/straw I don't see the need in removing the diff unless there is a mechanical problem with it.
Removing the halfshafts would be an easy way to stop the diff flange spinning and getting wrapped up, it would also reduce drag and a dodgy diff wouldn't be a problem.
But actually removing the diff seems like a waste of time to me, you'd have to have a use for it or to be able to sell it for a lot of money for it to be worth the trouble.
Removing the halfshafts would be an easy way to stop the diff flange spinning and getting wrapped up, it would also reduce drag and a dodgy diff wouldn't be a problem.
But actually removing the diff seems like a waste of time to me, you'd have to have a use for it or to be able to sell it for a lot of money for it to be worth the trouble.
