did you ever decide on what sort of bench that you would like ?
ive seen these on net
some i really like with the drawers in them im not keen on cupboards as can only store a certain amount on shelves or in cupboards and they just seem a waste of usage also same with the myford benches
? have you included a way to add a oil pump say for later on usages at all
I might change it now Ive seen those! I was going to weld the lengths ontop, rather than between legs if that make any sense? Im thinking it would be stronger. The lower bracing would be welded between legs. A bit like this, without shelves which I can add later: http://qbosaur.blogspot.co.uk/2014/05/lathe-bench.html
The floor is not even, drop about 50mm where the lathe ends and I will need to move it to get tail stock/saddle on and off, so will have castors.
I had seen that build whilst looking for a better lathe table myself as mines just a wood built table
the only problem i have with wood and oil is it soaks into the wood and ive seen enough factory fires where the heat is so intense from soaked in flamables in wood
ive also got an uneven floor but got enough space to do whats needed for the lathe
these are some more ive come across
other reason was to ask other users of laths if they would add or change there table builds to add better things to theres
If you have an uneven floor then make a box section table and at the four corners of the bottom tables legs make them so they can be peg and dowled ie if your table is uneven at one end then you can rise the uneven end legs with box peg and dowl risers.
Or even risers like that in the last pic,looks like the feet are screwable height adjusting?
heres my bench for original lathe dad bought on steel frame that was going in skip.
top drawer holds sardine tins for small bits.
and door where coolant pump sits is recessed so calipers i use a lot hang on door.
as been evolving over last few years now more or less how i want it so will be building drawers out of steel.
will do same with stand i am starting for southbend only guaranteed bit on that stand is fitting of the trays in last pic
that hold offcuts etc.
myford ml6 bench will be easiest to build as just needs trays to hold collets.
Its going to have castors, but I like the idea of bolting them on to the legs when I need to move it, wont be often. This means they are not the feet, and wont matter if I buy cheap ones and wont wobble around. I have a few lengths of M20 threaded bar. Ill weld a nut on each leg and use this for height adjustment.
Decided to use 3x meter lengths for the lathe to sit on. Dont like grinding welds but needs to be flat. Had wire speed quite low, needs a machine with more power for this.. it tripped thermal cut out a few times. This was super6 gasless 0.8mm.
thanks for posting your bench up tadycat i like your draws and door idea
your not by any chance leaning your mig gun? as you may find being more pointed direct will give you the heat and weld better
i have the sip 150 gasless and normally id burn a hole through those 2.5mm using gasless but of late im getting much better with both welders as also have the clarke 150 gas
ive also decided that im going to build a new lathe bench as well but ive got scrap office legs and bases 2mm heavy metal 3"x1" or 3x1,1/2" and then i need the long lengths to go in between for my new build as well
I think being a T joint with a large area to fill, needs a lot more heat and power, welder is seeing it as being 6-8mm thick? Its not pretty but it'll do the job. Rest of the welds should be much nicer. Before I started I did a test weld on some 5mm angle which wasnt too bad.
Legs and top just tack welded and need some adjustment for the braces. I'd like to get it all welded up tomorrow after work, but that only gives me an hour now it gets dark early
Unless you are going to have drawers or cupboards that seal shut under the bench I would leave them out. Certainly not open shelves. Whatever isnt sealed will get swarf or coolant inside eventually.
If you can buy aquire a cheap tool box of filing type cabinet, ( ikea) and build into you base. You always need somewhere to keep widgets, tooling tools, etc.
Yes, discovered already that swarf goes everywhere, took a good few hours cleaning it all up! The green swarf tray came with lathe, Im going to modify/enclose it, I cant have swarf leaving the bench! Yes coolant drain, doubt I will use it.
10 meters tube used so far, 1 meter offcuts that will become the feet, and a 4 meter length left. Not decided how far down to put bracing but I did plan to use another 2 meters for bracing near the top.
as we all have bad habits by placing stuff on the tray itself id consider a little support for the tray edges
on another note could you be too far away from the lathe as considering step in on the front metal bar when setting up the machine or doing fine lathing
sorry i really dont know but i find it strange that on some units they have a step into them so you can be closer to the lathe
Might be worth welding some angle to back to fit sheet steel to stop all crud going down back.
Used 1mm zintec for my back as you know swarf gets everywhere.
Am also putting bigger tray on mine to catch more dwarf.
Drain on mine is plug hole from sink with strainer fitted.
I use small parts washer for coolant pump.
if yours is the Warco at the top I'd put a pillar on the back to mount a lathe light, also have the tray at the front extending over the draws if you're putting them in, even better a shutter over the draws as said swarf will get in them. Also if having a suds tank put a level sight in it so you can see how full it is, my Mk3 Boxford is a pain as you can only check the level from the back and it's against a wall!!