The 8th digit in the VIN will tell you if a DPF is fitted, i knocked up a decoding spreadsheet when I was looking for an FL2
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You got one of them for a D2?![]()
I "found" an LR workshop manual onlineand all the info was in there, have a look for a D2 version?.
I "found" an LR workshop manual onlineand all the info was in there, have a look for a D2 version?.
On the near future I may ask if you will "share" said manual![]()
@Rig Pig mins on 157K and the dash and seats (except the drivers door bolster I'll grant you) look fresh as one on 40k
I look at cars now and think theyre quite new, they look new, and then I realise they are 2004 or something and its 14 years old.....back in the 70s they were rotten after 5 yearsIf its just a short commute on tarmac there are thousands of bargain petrol fiestas etc around as the kids all but lease cars now.
Its mad you can buy a good runner now recent car now for about what you had to pay for a decrepid pile of rust n oil 30 odd years back
If its just a short commute on tarmac there are thousands of bargain petrol fiestas etc around as the kids all but lease cars now.
Its mad you can buy a good runner now recent car now for about what you had to pay for a decrepid pile of rust n oil 30 odd years back
You got one of them for a D2?![]()
And most of the engines and gear boxes are good for a few hundred thousand miles Remember when 80k was dangerous territoryI look at cars now and think theyre quite new, they look new, and then I realise they are 2004 or something and its 14 years old.....back in the 70s they were rotten after 5 years
And most of the engines and gear boxes are good for a few hundred thousand miles Remember when 80k was dangerous territory
If you're set on diesel, definitely keep eyes out for the engine preheater ones. Or consider retro fitting one, or an electric one. You might just be approaching full temperature after 6miles with one.
Also, while the negatives of egr are obvious and it's very tempting to remove... They do help reduce warm up times. Same with the back pressure caused by cats and dpfs. You'll get up to temp and efficient burning faster but you'll use more fuel to do so. Which one uses more fuel? Not sure!
Would a potential compromise be a petrol lpg conversion? (I've no idea if it's even possible on that sort of car/engine but just a thought)