Land rover forward Control

  1. Kent

    Kent Member

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    10,002
    Location:
    Bowland, Lanacshire,UK
    Got one of these Comming in for some fabrication work to convert to a camper.

    Needs a new rear crossmember at same time, guys been told it's a body off job by a so called expert. Is this "expert" talking nonsense? Looks to me like it's a cut the floor out job (which isn't a big issue bearing in mind other work that I am going to be doing to it)

    Anyone done one? Done loads of series but never a fc.
     
  2. Robotstar5

    Robotstar5 Casanunda Staff Member

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  3. winchman

    winchman Member

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    Location:
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    A common issue with the LandRover world is it like many others is full of self appointed experts.
    I recently had a Dose of "Experts" viewing my Discovery and telling me how **Language** it was , then I got some one who knew his stuff who drove from Glasgow to buy it!
    Its a job I have never done but I would assume its easier to take the floor out.
    Might be worth a quick look on Landy Zone or Difflock?
    I would give these a call as they may help?
    http://www.101parts.co.uk/shop/chassis/left-hand-rear-x-member-repair-section/
    This bloke took the back off but only as he felt it was easier
     
    BarrieJ likes this.
  4. gaz1

    gaz1 Forum Supporter

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  5. dannyp Member

    FC's are weird things, if you can weld well with stick i cant see youd need to take the body off
     
  6. postie jon Member

    Messages:
    787
    Location:
    Aberdeenshire, Scotland
    surely the military 101 fc club can advise on the simplest option?
     
  7. julianf

    julianf Member

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    Location:
    devon, uk
    Is this a 101, or a series 2?

    I have a 101, and im not aware of anyone ever saying that the cross member is a body off job.

    Also, the 101 comes in different variants. I suspect the GS (which wont be what youre getting, if its a camper job) would just be some bolts to undo, but the ambi is more of a conversion anyway (they started off life as softtops and then were converted later) so has all the usual "conversion" issues.

    I assume you are extending the rear? I have a load of photos stored of other people conversions (ie part way though, etc) - i think ive posted some here before. might be good for you to look at for inspiration and all that?
     
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  8. julianf

    julianf Member

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    To clarify (for anyone else), there were series 2a forward controls, as well as 101s.
     
  9. Robbie260 Member

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    Location:
    Scotland highland
    Also series 2b FC as well.

    Taking the body off would depend. If it is a normal gs then it is probably easier to take the body off to do the final welding once the crossmember has been securely tacked in place. As to drill out all the spot welds to take out the rear floor would take a long time, took me a whole day to do one tub door pillar on a swb series 3. Plus you would have to probably replace the entire rear floor and under floor support structure.
     
  10. Kent

    Kent Member

    Messages:
    10,002
    Location:
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    101
     
  11. Kent

    Kent Member

    Messages:
    10,002
    Location:
    Bowland, Lanacshire,UK
    Forward control are a very different system to your regular land rover series (of which I have done many). For one the outward sides of the rear crossmember carry the rearmost spring hangers.
     
    gaz1 likes this.
  12. MrFluffy Member

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    2,911
    Location:
    In the shed
    If its a GS, then "body off" isnt quite as dramatic as it sounds, the tailgate and sides slide off on pins, so the body is the rear wheel arches, and the body pillars with the hoodsticks each being secured with a single bolt then pushed onto a stub so they just lift off. You dont need to touch the cab or anything forward of the roll bar. The rear engine and gearbox cover is on dzus style fasteners so can be taken out in seconds but the rest of the floor is rivetted in place.
    I think you cant take the floor out directly above the area you would need to weld, since above it is the wheel tubs and equipment compartments in that section but I'll have a look in a bit and try and get a shot from underneath on mine to show you where its going to need attaching, I've never taken that section out myself yet to comment from direct experience. I dont think you'll have access to weld the top of the chassis with the floor/body in situ. If I ever took my body off I'd put a replacement crossmember in while I was at it (and looks like that is happening as the rear floor sheared all its rivets in the shunt so need to find any underlying damage that might be hidden) , but at the time I patched what was there to make less work of it.
    If its a ambi, as julien says, its much more of a involved job to remove the body as its a gert big single lump bolted on and covers the cab area and b pillars too.
     
    Kent likes this.
  13. MrFluffy Member

    Messages:
    2,911
    Location:
    In the shed
    Here, this is a seller selling the "rear body" assembly that would have to come off that isnt designed to slide off in seconds to lift with a helicopter. It gives a good idea of what it actually consists of in terms of weight (remember this is mostly birmabright ally). The open cutaway end is the gearbox cover and butt's up to the back of the cab area and engine cover. You can see the storage lockers I mentioned formed into the wheel arch boxes behind the wheel arches themselves.
    https://www.leboncoin.fr/equipement_auto/1175753649.htm?ca=14_s
     
    Kent likes this.
  14. MrFluffy Member

    Messages:
    2,911
    Location:
    In the shed
    Here you go, 3 shots, first from underneath inside from roughly by the diff, showing the main rails attaching to the xmember.
    [​IMG]

    Here is where the chassis rails line up with in relation to the seats/arches etc. Its inboard of the seat tub edges so plausible you could drill out the rivets and lift all the floor panel, apart from what you'll see in the final shot.
    [​IMG]

    Rear xmember from the right meets chassis rail coming from the left, taken from the wheel arch area. As you can see, the U channel that forms part of the body sits right on top of the area you need to weld and its made of birmabright so will get damaged easily. I'll go with the internet experts on this one and say I'd want the rear tub off to tackle it myself.
    [​IMG]

    Take some shots as you do it if you have chance, it'll be great to see them.
    Now everyone knows why the GS has a reputation for being tail happy when theyre unloaded, the whole rear bit weighs sod all.
     
    Kent likes this.
  15. Kent

    Kent Member

    Messages:
    10,002
    Location:
    Bowland, Lanacshire,UK
    This one has been converted to an ambulance. I must say it looks a little different to say the least.
    Got to be honest with my mate with more in and myself with a fancy gate to finish and a curved staircase, starting to wonder if it's all a good idea with January my busiest selling time looming on the horizon.
    See what happens, will definitely be posting a few pictures if I fully commit to taking it on. Like a challenge but hate deadlines
     
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  16. julianf

    julianf Member

    Messages:
    4,066
    Location:
    devon, uk
    The ambulance has a steel frame at the back that the doors hang off.

    It seems that the usual way to extend the back is just to marry up to this steel frame with a matching frame, and the extension.
    The extension is usually then just skinnned in alluminum, same as the rest.
     
  17. julianf

    julianf Member

    Messages:
    4,066
    Location:
    devon, uk
    eg -

    [​IMG]



    This is another shot of the same one -

    [​IMG]


    The choice seems to be the degree of overhang.

    This one has (IMHO) the wrong angle -

    [​IMG]


    This one has less overhang than the first one but the angle is right (mirrors the wheel arch) -

    f350114783f8143f2c70926f6cb330eb.jpg


    I think that the latter looks better from the outside, but gives less room on the inside. When i do mine, i think i will double the flat section behind the rear wheel (the first photo has more than double, whilst the blue one above has no extra - the angle just comes up from the original back)

    I dont think the rear extension is as taxing as making the side door.
     
  18. indy4x

    indy4x Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    1,460
    Location:
    Pontypool, South Wales. UK
    The was a LRO write-up on the blue one in the last photo, got me wanting a 101
     
  19. steve t Member

    Messages:
    523
    Ireland
    theyre nice
     
  20. julianf

    julianf Member

    Messages:
    4,066
    Location:
    devon, uk
    Ive not seen the write up, but im aware that people call it the most photographed 101...

    I dont think the owner has been that inventive with the inside though. So far as i can tell anyway.

    Straying off topic, i know, but here is my latest sketchup plan for mine -

    101ketch5.jpg


    This assumes a rear extension that exactly doubles the small horizantal section behind the rear wheel.
    Mine is a LHD, so the wetroom will extend into the cab to end directly behind the drivers seat.

    Im just loath to pull mine apart again at the moment, so im just collecting parts so as, when im ready, i can do it all in one go with minimal down time.
     
    indy4x and steve t like this.
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