Land Rover Defender 110 Rebuild

[ffr90]

I take it the holes in ( replacement/new ?? ) the footwells are for the early cable throttle and your fitting a fly-by-wire, potentiometer one?
BUGGER !
Least there out of sight, just more holes to plug up!
I don't think the clutch and brake pedal boxes changed their location bolt fixings, even with the TDCI, definitely not the clutch as i have a 2014 TDCI clutch pedal box, with spring and hydraulic switch in my 91 200 Tdi.

 

[awemawson]

Went to fit the throttle peddle and all the holes are in the wrong bloody place. To say I'm angry is an understatement. The brake holes better not be an issue either!

.... you tell 'em Kim - take no prisoners

(neoprene posted this morning first class)

 

[BuiltnotBought]

I'm sorry but td5 is nicest sounding defender engine. Wait till you hear mine

HELL NO! is it. a 300 tdi is much better sounding. a Td5 is far to electrical sounding. plus the 300 is much nicer with a bit of tweaking.

 

[KimB]

HELL NO! is it. a 300 tdi is much better sounding. a Td5 is far to electrical sounding. plus the 300 is much nicer with a bit of tweaking.

Haha, good one

 

[KimB]

I take it the holes in ( replacement/new ?? ) the footwells are for the early cable throttle and your fitting a fly-by-wire, potentiometer one?
****** !
Least there out of sight, just more holes to plug up!
I don't think the clutch and brake pedal boxes changed their location bolt fixings, even with the TDCI, definitely not the clutch as i have a 2014 TDCI clutch pedal box, with spring and hydraulic switch in my 91 200 Tdi.

Sorry I forgot to reply. Yes they're wrong in the replacement footwell. Not sure what I'm going to do if I'm honest. Major anoyance. Gonna have to do something about sealing the two non used holes as well.

 

[KimB]

.... you tell 'em Kim - take no prisoners

(neoprene posted this morning first class)

All received now. Thank you so much off to get my powder coated parts shortly as well

 

[KimB]

Update time

Got two Land Rover deliveries and a load of other bits and bobs today. As well as picking my power coating up yesterday.

Started by fitting the clutch flexi pipe with the connecting pipe that's been such a pain to get for a while now

Then cut some rubber seals. Not pretty but they work. Thanks @awemawson

Then half assembled the clutch and brake boxes. I'm going to order two new master cylinders tomorrow as the old ones are in a sorry state.
Fitted the brake one anyway as easy enough to pop the servo and master on. clutch I'll do on the bench

Assembled the slam Pannel, I must say as well. It looks incredible! Need some more nuts and bolts but it's ready to bolt on. New bonnet latch fitted as well

It's getting there now

 

[Mark E]

Is there anything in the world quite as satisfying as assembling newly made or reconditioned parts? I think not.

Ready in time for towing the neighbourhood Santa sleigh around Herts Kim?

 

[KimB]

Is there anything in the world quite as satisfying as assembling newly made or reconditioned parts? I think not.

Ready in time for towing the neighbourhood Santa sleigh around Herts Kim?

I don't think there is but when I see small blemishes it really bugs my Ocd.
I wish need to source doors and heater still. Oh and new td5 dash. Mine is so rusty I refuse to re use it!

 

[colnerov]

Hi, That should be CDO, because all the letters are in the right order.

Colin

 

[KimB]

Hi, That should be CDO, because all the letters are in the right order.

Colin

Don't make it worse for me haha.

 

[ffr90]

More good progress, love the slam panel finish, mines a been painted several times, but still returns to rust after a winter or two.
Powder C or Epoxy is what it needs.
Are you using standard brake fluid or DOT 5 silicone?
I always seem to end up having some kind of spillage, however small, and end up with damaged or stripped paint etc, so I've decided to use silicone fluid in the system next time I need to change any larger part of the system.
This will make it possible to bench bleed the cylinders with a little fluid first too, seems to make the initial on vehicle bleed quicker?

 

[KimB]

More good progress, love the slam panel finish, mines a been painted several times, but still returns to rust after a winter or two.
Powder C or Epoxy is what it needs.
Are you using standard brake fluid or DOT 5 silicone?
I always seem to end up having some kind of spillage, however small, and end up with damaged or stripped paint etc, so I've decided to use silicone fluid in the system next time I need to change any larger part of the system.
This will make it possible to bench bleed the cylinders with a little fluid first too, seems to make the initial on vehicle bleed quicker?

I was going to use standard but never knew they did one that doesn't damage paint. I'll be using that I think but it's bloody expensive. Any recommendations ? I'll order it now

 

[KimB]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/181795860021
This stuff looks okay ? Seems a good deal too. £10 more and nearly get 1l more then others I saw. Should cover me enough to bleed full system. And have some left over ?

 

[ffr90]

I cant say i've any recommendations of where to buy sorry, maybe automec ?

I trust you dont have a TD5 with anti lock brakes, as it isn't suitable for ABS pump systems i'm told?
I guess your going to need at least a litre, maybe 1.5, giving enough quantity with bleeding allowance.
The other advantage is it doesn't need changing every 2-3 years because it doesn't absorb water, and long term less likely to corrode the components internally.
So any leftovers can be used at a later point in time as long as they are scrupulously clean.
Unlike standard fluid which should be disposed of once any container has been opened.
After the time, money and effort spent painting the panels, I think any further new system work I do will always use silicone from now on.

 

[KimB]

I cant say i've any recommendations of where to buy sorry, maybe automec ?

I trust you dont have a TD5 with anti lock brakes, as it isn't suitable for ABS pump systems i'm told?
I guess your going to need at least a litre, maybe 1.5, giving enough quantity with bleeding allowance.
The other advantage is it doesn't need changing every 2-3 years because it doesn't absorb water, and long term less likely to corrode the components internally.
So any leftovers can be used at a later point in time as long as they are scrupulously clean.
Unlike standard fluid which should be disposed of once any container has been opened.
After the time, money and effort spent painting the panels, I think any further new system work I do will always use silicone from now on.

No ABS so should be fine then My friend said the same thing to me when I mentioned what you said. I'll get it ordered up
Many thanks
Kim

 

[bricol]

There is a theory that water in a system filled with silicon fluid simply drops to the lowest points - ie the calipers/cylinders and corrodes them even better instead. Plus it will then boil even easier right where the heat is.

While I think you can fill a system previously filled with Dot3,4 or 5.1 fluid with silicon, you can't then refill a system filled with silicon fluid (Dot 5) with normal fluid - all the seals swell and fail.

Bri

 

[ffr90]

Well yes there's always a counter theory, and accept your points Bricol.
I think its plenty good enough for purpose, a second bleed after a short while in use will help eliminate any water from the system, if there is any at all that's accrued via condensation inside the new components, since assembly.
Its main issue is its liable to Cavitate in an ABS pump so yes is unsuitable for that type of system. most peoples issues tend to come from swapping over to silicone with an old system, if its a completely reworked then that's not applicable.

 

[Cobbler]

There is a theory that water in a system filled with silicon fluid simply drops to the lowest points - ie the calipers/cylinders and corrodes them even better instead. Plus it will then boil even easier right where the heat is.
Bri

Ive heard this question discussed before, I understand ordinary brake fluid is designed to be hydroscopic so that it absorbs any moisture before it can cause problems of corrosion as mentioned above, hence the recommendation to change it every 4 years or so. Realistically how long does it take to change it, not long on a Landy as you can get underneath & you know there's no water in it then.

 

[Wendelspanswick]

If you do use silicone (not silicon!) make sure you have some spare at home. A friend uses silicone in his Riley, he had a leaking master cylinder so replaced it with one he had as a spare but then realised he couldn't get any silicone brake fluid locally for love nor money. After a fruitless 3 hours ringing round on a Saturday morning he had to cancel the rally he had planned to go on for the weekend.