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foy9999
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Yes. I think you are right but it's a pity there wasn't still a fuseable link there or I wouldn't have a nightmare on my hands lol. I'm thinking it's the combination-box that's fried and saw that one sold for only £30 on Ebay recently. Could be a long time before another pops up
foy9999
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Ok so I spent an hour or so doing wiring checks yesterday and have made a bit progress in my head but had to stop when I got to a certain point as I don't have internet apart from at home and ink has run out on printer so can't print stuff off to take down barn with me.
So what I basically did was check for continuity on the path from the red positive lead. It's going to be a bit of a nightmare to explain how I got to where I did but I'll try to show it and mb beak it down into small posts.
First thing I did was establish where the red wire from the fuseable link lead to and also that the continuity wasn't broken at the link (since it's a bodge) and also that there was voltage on and from the battery.
Battery was easy bit showing approx 12V (but less further down the line) and Iwas satisfied there was continuity thru the link.
There is a big plug behind the mesh grille near floor and the red wire from the battery splits there. When connected it goes up to the fuses. Not to 30A fuse as I expected but to a 15A one. On the other side of the fuse the wire changes to red with black and I found 2 possible wires in the combination box that could be the other end of that wire. One is back c/w red and the other red c/w black. There is no exposed metal at the wires in the combination box so I had to pierce the insulation with a staple but, hey presto' we had continuity from the fuse to the box.
There was nowhere to go after that (as no wiring diagram) so I turned to the ignition-switch. Will d/w that later
disconnected main plug
found red wire
figured red wire here (which connects to battery +VE lead via link) would lead to the plug
meter connected red wire via link
other lead connected to red wire in plug
continuity
red wire in plug connected to its partner on other half of plug
showing almost 12V
red wire on other half of plug lead to fuses
fuse #4 (15A)
path changed from red to red/black on other side of fuse
2 possibilites at combination-box
this one looked most likely
piercing insulation to check for continuity
continuity
So what I basically did was check for continuity on the path from the red positive lead. It's going to be a bit of a nightmare to explain how I got to where I did but I'll try to show it and mb beak it down into small posts.
First thing I did was establish where the red wire from the fuseable link lead to and also that the continuity wasn't broken at the link (since it's a bodge) and also that there was voltage on and from the battery.
Battery was easy bit showing approx 12V (but less further down the line) and Iwas satisfied there was continuity thru the link.
There is a big plug behind the mesh grille near floor and the red wire from the battery splits there. When connected it goes up to the fuses. Not to 30A fuse as I expected but to a 15A one. On the other side of the fuse the wire changes to red with black and I found 2 possible wires in the combination box that could be the other end of that wire. One is back c/w red and the other red c/w black. There is no exposed metal at the wires in the combination box so I had to pierce the insulation with a staple but, hey presto' we had continuity from the fuse to the box.
There was nowhere to go after that (as no wiring diagram) so I turned to the ignition-switch. Will d/w that later
disconnected main plug
found red wire
figured red wire here (which connects to battery +VE lead via link) would lead to the plug
meter connected red wire via link
other lead connected to red wire in plug
continuity
red wire in plug connected to its partner on other half of plug
showing almost 12V
red wire on other half of plug lead to fuses
fuse #4 (15A)
path changed from red to red/black on other side of fuse
2 possibilites at combination-box
this one looked most likely
piercing insulation to check for continuity
continuity
foy9999
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So, if anyone is still interested 
, this is what I did next....
I'd worked out what seems to be supplying power from the battery to the combination box but didn't know how to check if power was coming out of it. IE a dead-end (for now).
Next thing I wanted to check was the ignition-switch as nothing happens when you turn it (IE no lights on dash). I got as far a removing the screws which hold the dash on hoping to get a better look at things but soon realised the steering-wheel and other controls would need to come off too.
I binned that idea for the time-being and decided to check if there was continuity from the loom to the switch. There is actually a connection from the switch to an off-shoot of the loom which goes to a (blue) plug so I simply disconnected both ends of this and there was continuity on all 4 wires which lead to the switch. The plug has another 2 wires in it so I will trace these next time after studying the manual further. It wasn't really a big surprise that the wires were fine but still another thing ruled out and a bit more understanding of where everything goes
dash has had some bodge repairs in the past but is basically held on by 4 large Philips/Pozi screws
steering-wheel would need to come off to remove dash
plus some other controls
including this ring securing the ignition switch
disconnected plug from switch
plug has 4 wires (black; red/white; black/yellow; red)
this plug has other ends of same wires
checking for continuity on each wire
all were fine
Next thing I checked was to see if the seat-switch was perhaps mot working. Very unlikely but you can't rule anything out. The switch lives inside a tray welded to the bottom of the seat-base and the seat itself must be on springs on the base. I couldn't see any way of getting on to the switch without dismantling the seat so simply bridge the connector on the wire leading to the switch and then turned to ignition key to see if any lights came on but there was zilch/nada so that was testing over for the day and I got back to fixing the roof of the barn I pay money to use
lifting seat to check switch
wire to switch bridged
, this is what I did next....I'd worked out what seems to be supplying power from the battery to the combination box but didn't know how to check if power was coming out of it. IE a dead-end (for now).
Next thing I wanted to check was the ignition-switch as nothing happens when you turn it (IE no lights on dash). I got as far a removing the screws which hold the dash on hoping to get a better look at things but soon realised the steering-wheel and other controls would need to come off too.
I binned that idea for the time-being and decided to check if there was continuity from the loom to the switch. There is actually a connection from the switch to an off-shoot of the loom which goes to a (blue) plug so I simply disconnected both ends of this and there was continuity on all 4 wires which lead to the switch. The plug has another 2 wires in it so I will trace these next time after studying the manual further. It wasn't really a big surprise that the wires were fine but still another thing ruled out and a bit more understanding of where everything goes
dash has had some bodge repairs in the past but is basically held on by 4 large Philips/Pozi screws
steering-wheel would need to come off to remove dash
plus some other controls
including this ring securing the ignition switch
disconnected plug from switch
plug has 4 wires (black; red/white; black/yellow; red)
this plug has other ends of same wires
checking for continuity on each wire
all were fine
Next thing I checked was to see if the seat-switch was perhaps mot working. Very unlikely but you can't rule anything out. The switch lives inside a tray welded to the bottom of the seat-base and the seat itself must be on springs on the base. I couldn't see any way of getting on to the switch without dismantling the seat so simply bridge the connector on the wire leading to the switch and then turned to ignition key to see if any lights came on but there was zilch/nada so that was testing over for the day and I got back to fixing the roof of the barn I pay money to use
lifting seat to check switch
wire to switch bridged
lincoln2013
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I am not familiar with the G1700 but wouldn’t think the problem is with any of the safety switches as I think you should have power to the dash & ignition lights anyway. I think the seat switch brake pedal switch & the switch for the rotor only stop the engine cranking.
foy9999
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I hadn't thought of that lincoln2013 but it's definitely something to think about.
I'm just about to post about the (11) wires going into the combination-box and found on the wiring-diagram(s) that 3 of these are for the safety switches (seat/PTO/brake)
foy9999
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So after my very basic checks on what wires go to the combination box I came home and had another look at a PDF of the G1700 workshop manual. I'd rather have the paper one as it's easier to flick back and forth on these than scroll up and down and the PDF is a bit low resolution or blurry with lots of options depending on model of machine and whether it has dynamo or alternator and these headings can vanish out of screen when you are looking closely at a certain part of a page but I think I've took screen-shots of the correct ones.
What I can see is that the brown c/w red wire leads to the glow plugs and there's also a key to where voltage should appear dependent on main-switch position.
I guess I need to work out how the main-switch fits in with all this. IE how does power get to the switch and then test for voltage on the brown/red wire
Bizarrely the one wire I did successfully follow (red/black) has its ID missing in the drawing(s) so I've added it in
one half of a drawing, purple arrows show pins which connect and have red/black wire that I traced other day. brown/red goes to glow-plugs and somewhere else
more information here
brown c/w red wire at combination box
What I can see is that the brown c/w red wire leads to the glow plugs and there's also a key to where voltage should appear dependent on main-switch position.
I guess I need to work out how the main-switch fits in with all this. IE how does power get to the switch and then test for voltage on the brown/red wire
Bizarrely the one wire I did successfully follow (red/black) has its ID missing in the drawing(s) so I've added it in
one half of a drawing, purple arrows show pins which connect and have red/black wire that I traced other day. brown/red goes to glow-plugs and somewhere else
more information here
brown c/w red wire at combination box
Nomad
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Well done for getting as far as you have.
Looking at the circuit diagrams you found, if I was working on this I'd print the middle diagram in the post immediately above ^ as it shows the ignition switch and the combination box.
Can you share the link for the workshop manual you found? I
For info, I see manuals for the G1700 / G1800 so I guess they are near identical,
I like this site but I didn't see a circuit diagram.
Section 10 is electricals, page 341 has useful checks...
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/3095182/Kubota-G1800-2ws.html?page=341#manual
Suggestion: it looks like your multimeter has croc-clips, find a thin bit of wire a few inches long (mig welding wire will do), hold that in the croc clip and you can normally slide it into the terminal blocks alongside each wire so you can test things without separating the halfs of the connector blocks - often the best way to check what happens when you turn the key etc.
My gut is pointing to the ignition switch or the combo box but it's very difficult to know where to start looking when it's not in front of me.
Is it a 3 position (off - run - start) ignition switch?
If yes, check if the glowplugs get power when you turn the key to the start position - your circuit diagram makes it look like this should get power even in the combo box is faulty.
It's one way to check if the ignition switch is working as it should.
Best of luck and keep us updated
Looking at the circuit diagrams you found, if I was working on this I'd print the middle diagram in the post immediately above ^ as it shows the ignition switch and the combination box.
Can you share the link for the workshop manual you found? I
For info, I see manuals for the G1700 / G1800 so I guess they are near identical,
I like this site but I didn't see a circuit diagram.
Section 10 is electricals, page 341 has useful checks...
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/3095182/Kubota-G1800-2ws.html?page=341#manual
Suggestion: it looks like your multimeter has croc-clips, find a thin bit of wire a few inches long (mig welding wire will do), hold that in the croc clip and you can normally slide it into the terminal blocks alongside each wire so you can test things without separating the halfs of the connector blocks - often the best way to check what happens when you turn the key etc.
My gut is pointing to the ignition switch or the combo box but it's very difficult to know where to start looking when it's not in front of me.
Is it a 3 position (off - run - start) ignition switch?
If yes, check if the glowplugs get power when you turn the key to the start position - your circuit diagram makes it look like this should get power even in the combo box is faulty.
It's one way to check if the ignition switch is working as it should.
Best of luck and keep us updated
foy9999
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Thanks Nomad
After posting this I spent about another hour reading the manual and there is quite a bit more detail on what happens at each position of the switch and also checking the various safety switches and main-switch.
Just clicked on your link and it looks identical to the PDF I have (mine was sent to me in an email from the guy who used to own the mower so I wasn't sure if it was a 'private' file or an external link)
After posting this I spent about another hour reading the manual and there is quite a bit more detail on what happens at each position of the switch and also checking the various safety switches and main-switch.
Just clicked on your link and it looks identical to the PDF I have (mine was sent to me in an email from the guy who used to own the mower so I wasn't sure if it was a 'private' file or an external link)
foy9999
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So a bit more progress today - but no pictures as I dropped my camera from height the other day and it's knackered.
Last night I spent way too much time reading the manual online and this morning sketched a version of some of the info needed for my next checks. My printer is out of ink and at £30 for a refill I think I'll wait till it's something I really need it for before splashing out on that again.
The manual explained how to check for battery voltage at the main-switch... you just disconnect the plug under the switch and connect volt meter between the thick red wire and earth. I did this and got battery voltage (12+ V).
The next thing was a list of continuity checks on the switch in all 4 positions. The manual said you should remove the switch to do this but I couldn't get the securing-ring to move easily so just did it with the switch in-situ. With the plug disconnected from the plug on the harness I checked the 24 combinations shown in the table and all were bob-on.
You start at 'OFF' and there should be no continuity between any of the 4 wires then go to 'RUN' position then 'PREHEAT' position and finally 'STARTER' position where there should be continuity between all the wires.
The first two sets were easy to do as the switch stays in position on its own but for the last 2 it wants to spring back so you need to have the leads from the Ohm-meter connected to the wires while you turn the switch to the desired position but being careful the clips aren't just touching each other and giving a false reading. Wit the first 2 sets of checks you have both hands free and can just probe the wirs instead of clipping on to them.
A slight complication is the (like fuse #4 the other day) the wiring can changes colour at the plug in some cases...
On the plug from the harness the colours are red; red/white; black/red; black/yellow but on the matching plug from the switch the colours are red; red/white; black/red; black/white
Also in the diagram in the manual it shows the switch plug with pins numbered 1-4 but doesn't say which colour each is of what terminal they relate to. On the tables for doing the continuity checks it doesn't call the pins 1-4 or give the colours. It gives their terminals which are 30; AC; 50; 19.
With a bit of head-scratching I figured:
AC is pin #1 is red/white
30 is pin #2 is red
19 is pin #3 is black/red
50 is pin #4 is black/white
So now I know voltage is getting to the switch and the switch is fine but still nothing is happening.
I said the other day I worked out the wire to check next from the combination box was the brown/red one but looking at the wire connected to the glow-plugs it was back/red so I think I may have got Br/R and B/R mixed up so I decided to leave that for the day til I re-checked the wiring-diagram(s).
After that I checked the two remaining safety switches. You basically just disconnect the wire to the switch then connect an ohm-meter to the wires from the switch then activate the item. In this case the brake-pedal and the PTO-lever. I'd already bridged the wiring to the seat-switch the other day to see if that would affect anything but in hindsight this isn't checking the switch. It's just bypassing it.
Anyway the brake one was fine. Press brake and continuity shows. Release it and no continuity.
I then turned to the one for the PTO and found it isn't connected to the lever in any way. Looks like something has broken off. I thought 'surely this can't be the fix I'm looking for' and did the check by pushing the plunger on the switch by hand and it's working fine but this must be a red-herring as the machine has been used for months with the switch in that state (unless it broke last week or something).
I then tried sitting in the seat and turning the main-switch while pushing the PTO switch down and still nothing.
So that's as far as I got.
I noticed a place selling new combination boxes for about £160 lest night so you're looking at under £200 posted and it would save ma a lot of grief to just buy one if there's no progress after another couple of attempts at checking the wiring etc
Last night I spent way too much time reading the manual online and this morning sketched a version of some of the info needed for my next checks. My printer is out of ink and at £30 for a refill I think I'll wait till it's something I really need it for before splashing out on that again.
The manual explained how to check for battery voltage at the main-switch... you just disconnect the plug under the switch and connect volt meter between the thick red wire and earth. I did this and got battery voltage (12+ V).
The next thing was a list of continuity checks on the switch in all 4 positions. The manual said you should remove the switch to do this but I couldn't get the securing-ring to move easily so just did it with the switch in-situ. With the plug disconnected from the plug on the harness I checked the 24 combinations shown in the table and all were bob-on.
You start at 'OFF' and there should be no continuity between any of the 4 wires then go to 'RUN' position then 'PREHEAT' position and finally 'STARTER' position where there should be continuity between all the wires.
The first two sets were easy to do as the switch stays in position on its own but for the last 2 it wants to spring back so you need to have the leads from the Ohm-meter connected to the wires while you turn the switch to the desired position but being careful the clips aren't just touching each other and giving a false reading. Wit the first 2 sets of checks you have both hands free and can just probe the wirs instead of clipping on to them.
A slight complication is the (like fuse #4 the other day) the wiring can changes colour at the plug in some cases...
On the plug from the harness the colours are red; red/white; black/red; black/yellow but on the matching plug from the switch the colours are red; red/white; black/red; black/white
Also in the diagram in the manual it shows the switch plug with pins numbered 1-4 but doesn't say which colour each is of what terminal they relate to. On the tables for doing the continuity checks it doesn't call the pins 1-4 or give the colours. It gives their terminals which are 30; AC; 50; 19.
With a bit of head-scratching I figured:
AC is pin #1 is red/white
30 is pin #2 is red
19 is pin #3 is black/red
50 is pin #4 is black/white
So now I know voltage is getting to the switch and the switch is fine but still nothing is happening.
I said the other day I worked out the wire to check next from the combination box was the brown/red one but looking at the wire connected to the glow-plugs it was back/red so I think I may have got Br/R and B/R mixed up so I decided to leave that for the day til I re-checked the wiring-diagram(s).
After that I checked the two remaining safety switches. You basically just disconnect the wire to the switch then connect an ohm-meter to the wires from the switch then activate the item. In this case the brake-pedal and the PTO-lever. I'd already bridged the wiring to the seat-switch the other day to see if that would affect anything but in hindsight this isn't checking the switch. It's just bypassing it.
Anyway the brake one was fine. Press brake and continuity shows. Release it and no continuity.
I then turned to the one for the PTO and found it isn't connected to the lever in any way. Looks like something has broken off. I thought 'surely this can't be the fix I'm looking for' and did the check by pushing the plunger on the switch by hand and it's working fine but this must be a red-herring as the machine has been used for months with the switch in that state (unless it broke last week or something).
I then tried sitting in the seat and turning the main-switch while pushing the PTO switch down and still nothing.
So that's as far as I got.
I noticed a place selling new combination boxes for about £160 lest night so you're looking at under £200 posted and it would save ma a lot of grief to just buy one if there's no progress after another couple of attempts at checking the wiring etc
Nomad
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Another quick check would be to make sure power is getting to (and past) the fuses.
Connect the -ve probe of the test meter to a good earth, without removing the fuses use +ve probe to check both ends of each fuse.
- this will show the power is getting to the fuse, and that's it's passing the power on.
Some fuses will only get power when you turn the key (preheat circuit, starter circuit etc)
If desperate you should be able to remove the combo box and recreate what it does:
From the ignition key you know which wire is to run (to the run solenoid), which is preheat (to the glowplugs) and which is start (to the starter)
I don't know how you can test the combo box so no way of knowing if that's dead or if it's a loose wire somewhere else that's causing the problem.
Would be a shame to buy a new box if that's not the fault.
Connect the -ve probe of the test meter to a good earth, without removing the fuses use +ve probe to check both ends of each fuse.
- this will show the power is getting to the fuse, and that's it's passing the power on.
Some fuses will only get power when you turn the key (preheat circuit, starter circuit etc)
If desperate you should be able to remove the combo box and recreate what it does:
From the ignition key you know which wire is to run (to the run solenoid), which is preheat (to the glowplugs) and which is start (to the starter)
I don't know how you can test the combo box so no way of knowing if that's dead or if it's a loose wire somewhere else that's causing the problem.
Would be a shame to buy a new box if that's not the fault.
Last edited:
foy9999
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Well it's a bit more than 12V but would presumably be enough to light the dash lights up. No point buying a new battery yet if everything is dead
foy9999
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Another quick check would be to make sure power is getting to (and past) the fuses.
Connect the -ve probe of the test meter to a good earth, without removing the fuses use +ve probe to check both ends of each fuse.
- this will show the power is getting to the fuse, and that's it's passing the power on.
Some fuses will only get power when you turn the key (preheat circuit, starter circuit etc)
If desperate you should be able to remove the combo box and recreate what it does:
From the ignition key you know which wire is to run (to the run solenoid), which is preheat (to the glowplugs) and which is start (to the starter)
I don't know how you can test the combo box so no way of knowing if that's dead or if it's a loose wire somewhere else that's causing the problem.
Would be a shame to buy a new box if that's not the fault.
Yes Nomad. I was thinking that... looked again at the box and it's £178 and some pence after shipping and VAT are added but still don't know if we need one. Reading other articles on line there's no way to test the box. Apparently it includes some sort of timer.
Good suggestion about the fuses but on my first day of checking there was definitely power getting past #4 fuse. That's the one which had a red wire leading to it then a red/black coming out which lead to the combination box and had power getting to the box when probed.
I looked at the wiring-diagrams again last night and I was mixed up with the colour of wire going to glow-plugs. It is black/red coming from the box to the plugs. Not brown/red. The brown/red seems to be the wire from the glow-plug light to the box. Think I'll check those two circuits next.
There was something in the manual about disconnecting the glow-plug wire to check it
foy9999
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So I had a day off today and the Gaffer's list of broken machinery is getting longer and I'm apparently responsible for sorting it all so I did some more reading, jotted-down the guidance from the manual and set about checking some more of the 'wiring'.
It still isn't starting of even showing warning lights on dash but it seems voltage is getting to the glow-plugs and also that the glow-plugs are ok.
So the manual basically tells you to disconnect the black c/w red wire that goes to the glow-plugs and measure voltage between that wire and earth and it should be battery-voltage.
I got a reading no probs but it was only 10V. I'm not sure if that matters as I'm not at this point concerned about efficiency. Just want to know if the wiring/electrics are faulty. 10V does seem pretty low considering some batteries might show unloaded values of 14V but I'm getting 12V at this battery and at least we're getting something at the all-important glow-plu supply.
Next thing to do, apparently, was get a resistance figure for the glow-plugs. I set my meter at 1 Ohms scale as the value we want on 0.9 Ohms and this is were things got a bit tricky... I saw the needle on the meter pointing to a 7 and thought 'ah that must be 0.7 which is close to 0.9 so that's cool' but I realised the meter wasn't zeroing. on the scale I was on, so I tried to zero the needle then take readings again but as the needle wouldn't go to resting on zero I figured the readings weren't reliable and gave up on that for the time being.
All the glow-plugs showed the exact same resistance value so I figured this means they are all ok (are all equally broken)
One lat weird thing is that when I was taking the Voltage readings I could see smoke coming from a control cable
I did the test 2 or 3 more times and immediately the cable started smoking in the same place so I didn't keep the voltage-test going long after that - in case of fire
instructions (1st part)
this is wire to glow-plugs
black c/w red wire disconnected from glow-plug(s)
getting 10V between wire and earth
also getting smoke coming off this cable
instructions (2nd part)
one lead from meter to glow-plug. other lead is on earth
readings for all plugs were consistent but not on scale correctly
trying to zero needle on meter to do resistance-checks again
The last point of note concerns the safety-switch for the PTO drive belt thing...
As I may have said earlier the switch is't connected to the PTO lever so moving it back & forth doesn't make any difference. The mover has run fine in this condition but I tried pushing the thing down whilst trying to start the machine and it made no difference.
PTO lever engaged. big gap between lever and safety-switch
PTO lever disengaged but still not acting on switch
pushing switch down manually whilst trying to start machine
It still isn't starting of even showing warning lights on dash but it seems voltage is getting to the glow-plugs and also that the glow-plugs are ok.
So the manual basically tells you to disconnect the black c/w red wire that goes to the glow-plugs and measure voltage between that wire and earth and it should be battery-voltage.
I got a reading no probs but it was only 10V. I'm not sure if that matters as I'm not at this point concerned about efficiency. Just want to know if the wiring/electrics are faulty. 10V does seem pretty low considering some batteries might show unloaded values of 14V but I'm getting 12V at this battery and at least we're getting something at the all-important glow-plu supply.
Next thing to do, apparently, was get a resistance figure for the glow-plugs. I set my meter at 1 Ohms scale as the value we want on 0.9 Ohms and this is were things got a bit tricky... I saw the needle on the meter pointing to a 7 and thought 'ah that must be 0.7 which is close to 0.9 so that's cool' but I realised the meter wasn't zeroing. on the scale I was on, so I tried to zero the needle then take readings again but as the needle wouldn't go to resting on zero I figured the readings weren't reliable and gave up on that for the time being.
All the glow-plugs showed the exact same resistance value so I figured this means they are all ok (are all equally broken)
One lat weird thing is that when I was taking the Voltage readings I could see smoke coming from a control cable
I did the test 2 or 3 more times and immediately the cable started smoking in the same place so I didn't keep the voltage-test going long after that - in case of fire
instructions (1st part)
this is wire to glow-plugs
black c/w red wire disconnected from glow-plug(s)
getting 10V between wire and earth
also getting smoke coming off this cable
instructions (2nd part)
one lead from meter to glow-plug. other lead is on earth
readings for all plugs were consistent but not on scale correctly
trying to zero needle on meter to do resistance-checks again
The last point of note concerns the safety-switch for the PTO drive belt thing...
As I may have said earlier the switch is't connected to the PTO lever so moving it back & forth doesn't make any difference. The mover has run fine in this condition but I tried pushing the thing down whilst trying to start the machine and it made no difference.
PTO lever engaged. big gap between lever and safety-switch
PTO lever disengaged but still not acting on switch
pushing switch down manually whilst trying to start machine
foy9999
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fwiw I've been meaning to close-off this thread for some time - altho i have no real answers as such...
What am I on about?
Well. After doing all the above checks and getting no lights on the dash - let along cranking the starter - I was convinced I'd fried the combination-box and the guy who owns it had recently had his modern (petrol) one fixed by a local company.
He keeps wrecking the mower part by driving over wire and stuff
Anyway. The company said they'd take away the Kubota and (try to) fix that and I expected the diagnosis to be 'new combination-box required. That'll be £700 please' but I'd found one online for much cheaper - approx £145 iirc - so it was a worry that so much money would be wasted and i did mention this to the owner but he just said 'let them sort it' kinda thing.
Result was it was back about a week later working fine and no electrics replaced but they had tightened up the universal -VE battery lead he'd put on it.
I really don't understand how I was getting 12V to various parts of the loom but the machine was totally dead and I had wedged a bit on metal in between the clamp and the terminal to make it tighter.
So I guess the lesson to be learned is - don't always assume it'll be something really expensive that's causing the problem
What am I on about?
Well. After doing all the above checks and getting no lights on the dash - let along cranking the starter - I was convinced I'd fried the combination-box and the guy who owns it had recently had his modern (petrol) one fixed by a local company.
He keeps wrecking the mower part by driving over wire and stuff
Anyway. The company said they'd take away the Kubota and (try to) fix that and I expected the diagnosis to be 'new combination-box required. That'll be £700 please' but I'd found one online for much cheaper - approx £145 iirc - so it was a worry that so much money would be wasted and i did mention this to the owner but he just said 'let them sort it' kinda thing.
Result was it was back about a week later working fine and no electrics replaced but they had tightened up the universal -VE battery lead he'd put on it.
I really don't understand how I was getting 12V to various parts of the loom but the machine was totally dead and I had wedged a bit on metal in between the clamp and the terminal to make it tighter.
So I guess the lesson to be learned is - don't always assume it'll be something really expensive that's causing the problem
Nomad
Member
- Messages
- 1,963
- Location
- North Devon (for how long?)
Thanks for the update, glad it's sorted. Some poor connections look good and test ok with a meter but break down when you put large current through them - ie when you actually need them to work !Result was it was back about a week later working fine and no electrics replaced but they had tightened up the universal -VE battery lead he'd put on it.
So I guess the lesson to be learned is - don't always assume it'll be something really expensive that's causing the problem
I've done something similar in the past: rebuilt a project bike, fitted a "known good" battery that came with it and clamped the battery terminals up tight, went for a test drive through town and broke down outside my local pub.
I ended up calling the RAC, they came out and found a poor earth at the battery (the bolt on the earth cable was too long so it was hitting the battery case and stopping - almost good but not quite clamping up tight
foy9999
Member
- Messages
- 302
- Location
- East Kilbride
Yamaha makes VOM's ?
Sorry. I just realised what you were referring to
My 'pocket tester' with Yamaha branding.
I think they were made by Sanwa. I used to see them in the Yamaha manuals along with the 'electro-tester' made by Okuda-Koki and found both of them.
I have some old Yamahas from the 70s and wanted to right gear for working on them
Yamaha electro-tester
