Memmeddu
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Not going to happen that easy as it would probably get stuck and never come out anymore.
Then it's likely to leave a lot of porosity
- Thread starter witherrss
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Then it's likely to leave a lot of porosity
Memmeddu
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I wasn't meaning that, but it will shrink on it pretty badly
I'd leave it well alone now - it doesn't "need" welding - you have a secure thread, the sealing faces are fine. No risk of distortion, or even more damage from welding.
With the helicoil in there, you now have a more wear resistant thread than the original, so I would argue you now have a better solution than the original for removing the screw every oil change. An M6 tapped thread in decent aluminium will stand enough torque to snap an M6 12.9 grade screw - we tested this around 20 yrs ago to provide proof we did not need to fit helicoils in every single aluminium component we made. . However, we fit helicoils in aluminium components on the machines we design and manufacture where change parts are installed, to resist the wear and tear that would otherwise occur with the thread in the aluminium from changing the components needed for different size product runs.
Regarding tensile strengths of screws relative to oil pressure - an M6 grade 8.8 screw should be able to take a minimum tensile force of around 16,000N . . . that approximately equates to hanging a Ford Fiesta with four heavy people in it from one M6 screw . . .
With the helicoil in there, you now have a more wear resistant thread than the original, so I would argue you now have a better solution than the original for removing the screw every oil change. An M6 tapped thread in decent aluminium will stand enough torque to snap an M6 12.9 grade screw - we tested this around 20 yrs ago to provide proof we did not need to fit helicoils in every single aluminium component we made. . However, we fit helicoils in aluminium components on the machines we design and manufacture where change parts are installed, to resist the wear and tear that would otherwise occur with the thread in the aluminium from changing the components needed for different size product runs.
Regarding tensile strengths of screws relative to oil pressure - an M6 grade 8.8 screw should be able to take a minimum tensile force of around 16,000N . . . that approximately equates to hanging a Ford Fiesta with four heavy people in it from one M6 screw . . .
Just to complicate matters a little bit, (sorry), M6 threads come in 2 pitches, a fine 0.75 and a coarse at 1.00 - they do not fit each other...!!!
From your description I rather suspect you have tapped for and installed a M6 x 1.00 helicoil - which is ok - just make sure your nyloc nuts you source are equally 6mm x 1.00 (coarse).
You've done well with this - I have read it with interest.
Thanks, I am slowly unwinding the problems that I caused!
Yes I tapped it to M6 x 1.00, if I go with the bolt and nut approach I will ensure they are indeed coarse.
Update: I rode the Bike on Tuesday night for hours, high speeds, low speeds, taking it through all the gears, red lined in the gears quite a few times.
Zero leaks this is with my solution in place.
I have not moved to the "nut & bolt" solution discussed here yet.
A welder local to me is confident he could weld it, fill in the threads and the outer casing, drill and tap it back to original thread size with the engine in the Bike, this would be ideal for me IF it works as close to me and it gets it back to original. However I am not %100 sure if he can just do that easily going off the comments on this post.
So I have a few options:
1) Leave the current solution pretty much as is, sand down the current JB weld and fill in the outer gap where the helicoil is exposed with JB weld and tidy things up.
2) Replace the current bolt with a coarse threaded M6 8.8 tensile bolt and nylon nut with flange, sand down the current JB weld and fill in the outer gap with JB weld and tidy things up
3) Take the bike to a welder local to me, remove the oil filter cover, oil filter, current M6 4.4 bolt and helicoil and have him attempt to weld it, drill, tap and restore it back to the original
4) Wait until winter (when I wont be riding the bike) and drop the engine and take it to someone who can weld, drill and tap it close to original as possible
I could also have both oil filter cover threads drilled, tapped and steel helicoil's fitted so both threads are much more resistant to wear and tear
Would like to hear everyone's thoughts on here based on the fact I have rode it without issues.
Zero leaks this is with my solution in place.
I have not moved to the "nut & bolt" solution discussed here yet.
A welder local to me is confident he could weld it, fill in the threads and the outer casing, drill and tap it back to original thread size with the engine in the Bike, this would be ideal for me IF it works as close to me and it gets it back to original. However I am not %100 sure if he can just do that easily going off the comments on this post.
So I have a few options:
1) Leave the current solution pretty much as is, sand down the current JB weld and fill in the outer gap where the helicoil is exposed with JB weld and tidy things up.
2) Replace the current bolt with a coarse threaded M6 8.8 tensile bolt and nylon nut with flange, sand down the current JB weld and fill in the outer gap with JB weld and tidy things up
3) Take the bike to a welder local to me, remove the oil filter cover, oil filter, current M6 4.4 bolt and helicoil and have him attempt to weld it, drill, tap and restore it back to the original
4) Wait until winter (when I wont be riding the bike) and drop the engine and take it to someone who can weld, drill and tap it close to original as possible
I could also have both oil filter cover threads drilled, tapped and steel helicoil's fitted so both threads are much more resistant to wear and tear
Would like to hear everyone's thoughts on here based on the fact I have rode it without issues.
Stop messing around with it "witherss" and as "Bricol" said above - "leave it alone" - you've done well with it and what you've done works.
Regarding thread pitch - you can buy studs that are 6mm x 1.0 on one end (this would be the thread in your engine casing) and 6mm x 0.75 the other - this would be for the nut.
Regarding thread pitch - you can buy studs that are 6mm x 1.0 on one end (this would be the thread in your engine casing) and 6mm x 0.75 the other - this would be for the nut.
Memmeddu
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From my experience you start to encounter fine pitch at M8 and above, and even in those cases is pretty rare to find super fine pitches.
M8 standard 1.25, fine pitch 1mm or 0.75 which I've never been that unlucky to find
M10 standard 1.5, fine pitches are 1.25 pretty common, 1mm found only in brake line or in particular shafts arrangements.
M12 standard is 1.75 very common to find its finer pitches in automotive both 1.5 and 1.25, I've only found 1mm pitch on carburetors
All the bigger threads are easier to find in their finer pitches than standard
M8 standard 1.25, fine pitch 1mm or 0.75 which I've never been that unlucky to find
M10 standard 1.5, fine pitches are 1.25 pretty common, 1mm found only in brake line or in particular shafts arrangements.
M12 standard is 1.75 very common to find its finer pitches in automotive both 1.5 and 1.25, I've only found 1mm pitch on carburetors
All the bigger threads are easier to find in their finer pitches than standard
Memmeddu
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If you choose this Path remove engine oil and fuel, I didn't do a deeper research on the specific model but it will be easier to lay the bike down on a side to proceed with the repair.
If it's fuel injected just remove the oil for the engine and disconnect the battery + if it's possible any ECU
It is fuel injected
