Sadly the PO didn't do the jig thing, and that's where it went wrong big style.
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oldbikedavey
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Pretty much how it is with roller bottom ends.
Did a 580 B.50 for someone a few years ago, and he wanted a pressure gauge on the thing.
When hot, it showed about 1.5 psi.
While holding 90 mph for mile after mile after mile, complete with high bars.
Think that he gave up before it did....
There are 2 pre filter strainers near that oil filter housing, the KTM service kit comes with all 3 filters (2 pre filters and the main oil filter under that cover.
It is definitely under oil pressure, just like every other bike with the same setup..
Just an update, I went through all the replies here yesterday and went and redid the job following the great advice given here:
My mistakes, hopefully someone with the same issue in the future will see this post and avoid my mistakes:
1. The previously drilled hole drilled was not deep enough and cleaned out properly
2. I said I did an M8 tap and Helicoil, sorry I meant M6, the tap, coil and drill bit are all M6
3. The first Helicoil was not installed deep enough
4. I should not of installed any JB weld until I sorted a secure seal with the filter causing no leaks first (DUH!!) only after this should I then considered building anything up with JB weld
Here is what I did:
1. Sanded down allot of the existing JB weld (still need to sand away some more)
2. Removed the bolts, oil filter cover, oil filter, drained oil from the filter housing and stuff the housing with rags and then pulled out the previously installed Helicoil from the filter cover bolt hole
3. Drilled the hole deeper with a 6mm drill bit
4. Cleaned the hole out with a soft wire brush and scraped out any metal filings with a flathead screwdriver (need to buy an air compressor of some sort)
5. Tapped the hole out with a M6 tap
6. Cleaned the hole out again
7. Installed an M6 Helicoil this time getting the Helicoil as deep down in the hole as possible so the new installed bolt is tighter
8. Punched the tang off the back of the Helicoil and scraped out the tang
9. Reinstalled the oil filter, cover, bolts, topped up the oil and started the bike and let it run for 10 minutes
10. Tested the Bike looking for leaks, revving the bike to 4, 5k, 6k RPM and found zero leaks
Things I need to do:
1. Replace the bolt with a higher tensile strength bolt or stud
2. Take the bike to a welder and get outer surrounding area around the bolt welded properly (hopefully they will do this with the engine in the bike?)
3. Get the new welded area filed down, shaped etc (if necessary)
4. Eventually get the area painted
I also think keeping that bolt as a hex bolt and not a Torx bolt is a good idea, that way any future mechanics working on the bike will know their is something different about that bolt and thread before they have even removed the bolt.
Filter housing face with Helicoil installed:
Close up of the side of the filter housing, JB weld will need to be sanded away and the area ideally welded around the bolt:
Filter housing front:
My mistakes, hopefully someone with the same issue in the future will see this post and avoid my mistakes:
1. The previously drilled hole drilled was not deep enough and cleaned out properly
2. I said I did an M8 tap and Helicoil, sorry I meant M6, the tap, coil and drill bit are all M6
3. The first Helicoil was not installed deep enough
4. I should not of installed any JB weld until I sorted a secure seal with the filter causing no leaks first (DUH!!) only after this should I then considered building anything up with JB weld
Here is what I did:
1. Sanded down allot of the existing JB weld (still need to sand away some more)
2. Removed the bolts, oil filter cover, oil filter, drained oil from the filter housing and stuff the housing with rags and then pulled out the previously installed Helicoil from the filter cover bolt hole
3. Drilled the hole deeper with a 6mm drill bit
4. Cleaned the hole out with a soft wire brush and scraped out any metal filings with a flathead screwdriver (need to buy an air compressor of some sort)
5. Tapped the hole out with a M6 tap
6. Cleaned the hole out again
7. Installed an M6 Helicoil this time getting the Helicoil as deep down in the hole as possible so the new installed bolt is tighter
8. Punched the tang off the back of the Helicoil and scraped out the tang
9. Reinstalled the oil filter, cover, bolts, topped up the oil and started the bike and let it run for 10 minutes
10. Tested the Bike looking for leaks, revving the bike to 4, 5k, 6k RPM and found zero leaks
Things I need to do:
1. Replace the bolt with a higher tensile strength bolt or stud
2. Take the bike to a welder and get outer surrounding area around the bolt welded properly (hopefully they will do this with the engine in the bike?)
3. Get the new welded area filed down, shaped etc (if necessary)
4. Eventually get the area painted
I also think keeping that bolt as a hex bolt and not a Torx bolt is a good idea, that way any future mechanics working on the bike will know their is something different about that bolt and thread before they have even removed the bolt.
Filter housing face with Helicoil installed:
Close up of the side of the filter housing, JB weld will need to be sanded away and the area ideally welded around the bolt:
Filter housing front:
How does this look for a replacement bolt?
M6 x 16mm Set Screw High Tensile Hexagon Hex Bolt Bright Zinc Plated Grade 8.8 DIN 933
M6 x 16mm Set Screw High Tensile Hexagon Hex Bolt Bright Zinc Plated Grade 8.8 DIN 933. Fine Fit Fasteners stocks a range of Bright Zinc Plated screws. A variety of bright zinc plated fasteners including DIN 933 hex screws.
www.finefitfasteners.co.uk
pedrobedro
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That looks fine but it's a machine screw, bolts have a shank.
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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That's the poor casting not the metal properties.
lazybones51
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From this photo it looks like the cover oring would sit in this groove highlighted in red, which doesn't look to have been affected by the damage/"fix". Access for welding looks OK (if you leant the bike right over and pulled the exhaust).
You are right, the oil filter cover does have a rubber O-ring seal which sits in that groove.
Learn something new everyday, will look at bolts as a shank is needed to pass through the oil filter cover hole without causing any damage, cheers.That looks fine but it's a machine screw, bolts have a shank.
I would run a long threaded M6 bolt down your repair, thread lock it in.
Fit the filter housing cover and trim the bolt to length. A nuts length proud of the housing cap.
Use an M6 nut over the end of the bolt to secure it.
That way you are not disturbing your thread repair every oil change.
As said the sealing face is fine, I'd be tempted to dress it back up after with JB Weld as that is only cosmetic now you have a good deep threaded hole.
I think running a normal bolt and removing every service is courting disaster personally.
Fit the filter housing cover and trim the bolt to length. A nuts length proud of the housing cap.
Use an M6 nut over the end of the bolt to secure it.
That way you are not disturbing your thread repair every oil change.
As said the sealing face is fine, I'd be tempted to dress it back up after with JB Weld as that is only cosmetic now you have a good deep threaded hole.
I think running a normal bolt and removing every service is courting disaster personally.
redlig
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I don't think I would go that far. Tyres /oil and tarmac don't go well together.
Update: Rode the Bike yesterday for around 30 minutes everything was fine as I expected. It's going in for an MOT today *fingers crossed* their is no issues.
I think the threaded rod is what I am going to end up doing to see me through until the depths of winter, then once in winter when I am not riding the bike I reckon I will drop the engine and take it to someone to be welded properly.
Maybe @doubleboost would be up for doing the job around October/December time?
Edit: I am also planning to take the Bike to a place near me and put it on a Dyno, for two reasons:
A) Map the Bike to the exhaust which will make it run better anyway
B) A safe way to run the Bike through all it's revs and gears and ensure their is no oil leaks
This is what I am going to do, couple of questions though:
Any specific type of M6 nut? (I am thinking some nuts are more resistant to loosening than others aren't they such as ones with nylon insert or would a regular nut with loctite be better?)
I believe a regular washer against the oil filter cover to spread the nuts load across the face might be a good idea?
Morrisman
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Nylock nuts, with a steel washer, job done. You can buy them on EBay for a couple of quid a pack.
As everyone had said, a Nyloc is best, make sure you have enough thread to engage the end of the nut (probably best of fitting the nut first then trimming the stud to final length).
A new Nyloc every time.
You can by a flange M6 Nyloc, no need for the washer then.
I use Kays Fasteners or Bolt World on ebay for most of our stuff.
Just to complicate matters a little bit, (sorry), M6 threads come in 2 pitches, a fine 0.75 and a coarse at 1.00 - they do not fit each other...!!!
From your description I rather suspect you have tapped for and installed a M6 x 1.00 helicoil - which is ok - just make sure your nyloc nuts you source are equally 6mm x 1.00 (coarse).
You've done well with this - I have read it with interest.
From your description I rather suspect you have tapped for and installed a M6 x 1.00 helicoil - which is ok - just make sure your nyloc nuts you source are equally 6mm x 1.00 (coarse).
You've done well with this - I have read it with interest.
Memmeddu
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If not even the engine case alone.
We do a lot of those repairs and it's always challenging due to oil contamination and heat dissipation.
The carter alone would be much better.
We usually use an old cylinder head valve stem to keep the hole open.
We weld around adding little bit of extra material.
Then we restore the flat face using a Shark mouth file (I'd use the milling machine but bosses wants us to use the file).
Little deburring chamfering the hole, drill back to tap size because it shrinks and becomes smaller, tap and then is aesthetically shaped and sandblasted to hide most marks
