Keying epoxy

[el_stig]

Hi all, I've been reading a lot recently, but I'm a little unsure as my next step.

I've used lechler epoxy after rave reviews on here. Now I'm planning to high build on top of the epoxy (which has been on about a week). Do I just rough the epoxy up a bit with something like 400 dry? Or can I just go directly onto it without keying?

Sorry for the noob questions, but I haven't managed to find a definitive answer. (Although I'm sure there is one on here!)

Thanks in advance, Stu

 

[langy]

You should always key any surface for recoating if its outside the drying window, 240 is what I use.

 

[el_stig]

Thanks langy, I get a scrubbing with the 240! I've already clogged the hell out of some 400.....not the nicest stuff to sand this epoxy!!!

Hopefully I can actually get some high build on today!

 

[Chipper]

3M Fre-Cut paper is good with it, it's a great paper anyway. It's a dry one. I use stiff nylon brushes like toothbrushes to get rid of clog, makes it last loads longer.

 

[langy]

Thanks langy, I get a scrubbing with the 240! I've already clogged the hell out of some 400.....not the nicest stuff to sand this epoxy!!!

Hopefully I can actually get some high build on today!

Not telling you how to suck eggs but decent paper will make a huge difference, 3M or Mirka Gold is good stuff.

 

[el_stig]

I've found that out already mate! This is my first 'proper' go at all this and apart from painting like a blind monkey I'm learning a lot!

The paper I had from mini project was cheapy Titan from screwfix, my filler was p38....(the list goes on.....)

Now I'm using lechler primers, mirka abrasives, upol fantastic....all from reading recommends on here!

I still can't paint very well, but everyone has to start somewhere, and even if it looks I can always flat it back! But I'm actually enjoying it, so I couldn't care less!

I'll try and stick some pics up of my monstrosities so you can all laugh and point!

 

[norsa]

The art of auto paint can not be learned from school and overnight from a forum (first rate or otherwise). You can learn the theory ok but the nuts and bolts is down to time and practice. Be patient, learn to fail, then learn from the failure. Eventually you will get it and become fluent. A friend of mine who used to love watching me top coat and once commented it was like i was dancing with the car. Enjoy the journey.

 

[el_stig]

Thanks for that Norsa, I know what you mean about it being an art, always looks sooooooooo easy. I've painted a handful of panels now and each time I've learnt something new!

Also, I got some colour down tonight......

I burned through the green ti in places showing the white tinted epoxy beneath.....the yellow I'm spraying was no where near opaque enough to cover it. So despite it being ok paint wise, I've still got to roar it all back to have an even base to paint onto.

Also the paint was laying on quite dry so I changed my technique and gun settings through out spraying. Honestly some of it looks good (in my back yard opinion) but some of it also looks like I rollered it on with an actual orange and one part turned into a bit of a run...

Anyway, I'll get some pics on tonight, but all in all, it's not a complete disaster! And on the plus side, it's only the inside of a bonnet!

 

[el_stig]

This one shows the run between the wells....I'm SURE this would be worse if the panel was upright, but hey ho!



I'm quite happy with the finish......


You can sort of see the 'burn thru' I mentioned earlier running along the left edge of the panel



Better shot of the burn thru....is this a sand it out and respray job? Or is there a fix for this?


As always any help GREATLY appreciated!

Stu

 

[norsa]

Burn thru??

 

[vdubz]

I would leave as is, unless its a show car, that sand through area looks very small and i don't think anyone would notice it underneath the bonnet. You should have applied more base coat until you had coverage over the sand through areas or spot primed any sand through areas before base. When i spray basecoat i go for coverage + 1 coat to be safe, its much cheaper than having to do it again.

 

[el_stig]

^^ serious photoshop skills there....!

What I mean is I sanded through my high build (green ti) down to my epoxy (tinted white) and it is visible through the yellow paint.

I'm actually a bit bothered about the coverage of the paint in general...it seems very see through in comparison to the last lot of paint I used.

Thanks vdubz, I did think about spot priming the areas, but wanted to see the coverage of the top coat. As mentioned (a lot) I'm learning about the paints and processes as I go. It's hard work, but I'm still smiling!

 

[vdubz]

Usually 3-4 coats of base is good, check coverage after each coat with a halogen light or a sun gun if you can afford one!

 

[el_stig]

Can't afford a sun gun....but have you seen the cheapy sun gun copy you can make from detailingworld?

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=205820

 

[norsa]

Now understanding burn thru. Never heard of it before. Yes as said, I would have spot primed if I had sanded through the primer. Strong pigments (primary colours), especially red and yellow really need a complete ground coat so they 'hold out' and don't show patches (peep through). I would choose white for the yellow and black for red but as long as its a continuous colour ground coat it will work

 

[el_stig]

I think I am erring towards a white primer, can the green ti be tinted? Or is there a good white high build to use?

I did think it might need to be touched in, but I wanted to see the coverage as if this happens again I know what to do! Also, it is only under the bonnet, so despite it not being perfect it maybe left! (Although my OCD doesn't like that idea!)

 

[langy]

^^ serious photoshop skills there....!

What I mean is I sanded through my high build (green ti) down to my epoxy (tinted white) and it is visible through the yellow paint.

I'm actually a bit bothered about the coverage of the paint in general...it seems very see through in comparison to the last lot of paint I used.

Thanks vdubz, I did think about spot priming the areas, but wanted to see the coverage of the top coat. As mentioned (a lot) I'm learning about the paints and processes as I go. It's hard work, but I'm still smiling!

You could of left it where you flatted through the primer if you were putting 2k solid colour on top.
What is the topcoat your using ???

 

[langy]

I think I am erring towards a white primer, can the green ti be tinted? Or is there a good white high build to use?

I did think it might need to be touched in, but I wanted to see the coverage as if this happens again I know what to do! Also, it is only under the bonnet, so despite it not being perfect it maybe left! (Although my OCD doesn't like that idea!)

Yellow should be fine over green ti.

 

[el_stig]

It's a 2k single stage (rookie error, now realise I wanted cob, anyway) mixed to my van colour by Nu Agene in Bedford. I swear the last log of yellow (different shade) covered MUCH better on my test panels.

This has given the effect of laying a quality street wrapper on the primer, everything can be seen through it.

 

[langy]

It's a 2k single stage (rookie error, now realise I wanted cob, anyway) mixed to my van colour by Nu Agene in Bedford. I swear the last log of yellow (different shade) covered MUCH better on my test panels.

This has given the effect of laying a quality street wrapper on the primer, everything can be seen through it.

So it's solid colour, never heard of single stage so not sure where you got that from ?
You don't need COB, 2k solid colour in yellow should cover no problem, how did you mix it ???