RaceDiagnostics
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The pic above is the passenger side with the coolant tank, Driver side is easier. I never needed to pull the carpet out to find the hidden hole.
- Thread starter Wightsparks
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Wightsparks
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Getting the sensor out was theoretically easy. 22mm spanner - but limited throw.
The issue was leverage or rather lack of. The injector socket I bought was useless - about 23.5mm so huge slop. Had to find a way to extend the spanner with limited space (too small for a pipe to slip over). Enter some 25x5mm bar, 2 holes and a couple of M8 bolts in the end, done. (terrible pic as the end of the bar is the same colour as the wood !
After a false start with the wrong sensor I put in it's replacement today and bingo, all fuel trims back to nominal, correct voltages coming out of the sensors and a much fresher exhaust.
New wheel bearing arrived today,bit of a performance to fit apparently, £50 special tool to fit the nut, then a big tool to remove it as it was put on with 330nm... 23 years ago
and a 15T press to ease out the bearing. Fortunately as long as I can get the upright off I have access to the other stuff.
Else you can make your own tool,http://www.stallard-engineering.co.uk/stories/Jaguar/XJ8 front wheel bearing.htm
However as I have better access to the nearside I'm going to strip the sticky caliper it failed on first.
The issue was leverage or rather lack of. The injector socket I bought was useless - about 23.5mm so huge slop. Had to find a way to extend the spanner with limited space (too small for a pipe to slip over). Enter some 25x5mm bar, 2 holes and a couple of M8 bolts in the end, done. (terrible pic as the end of the bar is the same colour as the wood !
After a false start with the wrong sensor I put in it's replacement today and bingo, all fuel trims back to nominal, correct voltages coming out of the sensors and a much fresher exhaust.
New wheel bearing arrived today,bit of a performance to fit apparently, £50 special tool to fit the nut, then a big tool to remove it as it was put on with 330nm... 23 years ago
and a 15T press to ease out the bearing. Fortunately as long as I can get the upright off I have access to the other stuff. Else you can make your own tool,http://www.stallard-engineering.co.uk/stories/Jaguar/XJ8 front wheel bearing.htm
However as I have better access to the nearside I'm going to strip the sticky caliper it failed on first.
RaceDiagnostics
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That nut is a total PITA.
Hub bolted to bench using wheel studs, six feet worth of breaker bar.
Bent the bar.
Then sheared it.
Tried again with oxy, still wouldn't budge.
Ended up cutting it off.
Hub bolted to bench using wheel studs, six feet worth of breaker bar.
Bent the bar.
Then sheared it.
Tried again with oxy, still wouldn't budge.
Ended up cutting it off.
rtcosic
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Interesting. We had no trouble with the home-made one I've wittered on about before. We were braced for trouble and stunned when it went so well.
We had put the hub through a heating/cooling cycle in the oven. Might that have helped? The oven has a cleaning cycle that takes the temperature very high, but locks the door until it has cooled which we didn't know. Hence the heating/cooling cycle!
I'm just thanking the relevant Small God we had no trouble!
Edit: thinking a bit more as it was so easy we didn't put the second one through the heating/cooling cycle once were learned we couldn't take it out hot. Both were as straightforward, so heating/cooling could not have been the answer.
We had put the hub through a heating/cooling cycle in the oven. Might that have helped? The oven has a cleaning cycle that takes the temperature very high, but locks the door until it has cooled which we didn't know. Hence the heating/cooling cycle!
I'm just thanking the relevant Small God we had no trouble!
Edit: thinking a bit more as it was so easy we didn't put the second one through the heating/cooling cycle once were learned we couldn't take it out hot. Both were as straightforward, so heating/cooling could not have been the answer.
Melvyn Best
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Every time I have replaced wheel bearings on later Jaguars I have cut the nut off as it’s quicker, and cheaper for customers, than trying to get the old one off plus less risk of damaging the socket etc
Wightsparks
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I was looking for a replacement hub nut but drawing a blank. MJA1849BE is the part no. but all the usual suspects out of stock.
RaceDiagnostics
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Wightsparks
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Thanks,I'll drop them a line
Parm
Respect The Sound System
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Paul
this place is good too, bought all my jag spares from them when I had a jag
https://www.jagshop.co.uk/
this place is good too, bought all my jag spares from them when I had a jag
https://www.jagshop.co.uk/
stuvy
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That nut is a total PITA.
Hub bolted to bench using wheel studs, six feet worth of breaker bar.
Bent the bar.
Then sheared it.
Tried again with oxy, still wouldn't budge.
Ended up cutting it off.
what brand is the little cutter? A proper dremmel one?
RaceDiagnostics
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It's a lidl or aldi special.
Wightsparks
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Pfff well that was a mission.
First up investigate the sticky brakes N/S, - sliders seem ok maybe more grease, needs new pads as they way down, I'll just wind in the caliper. Nope not happening, open bleeder, nope still not happening.
Remove caliper to bench 8 bar of air pressure - still not moving in or out. Pulled off the boot and rotated the piston with a stilson - that moved it, some hitting with a hammer and free. The seal had not been put in properly and let water in - Guess that explains the sticky brakes then. New pistons ordered.
Right,next. O/S wheel off to get the upright off for the bearing change, locking wheel nut first, damn that's tight, no that's really really tight. Sheared the pins inside of the locking key
The nut looks like this
and the key had 2 vertical bars in it, now smushed. So I milled out the mess inside of the key and welded a couple of beads in it in the right place then gently placed it on the nut with a BFH, used a spider with the end supported on a jackstand and used a 4ft pipe. Came off but they were all on stupid tight, even had to give the wheel a good kicking to get it to come off!
Caliper off ok - lots of meat on the pads - I am guessing the N/S were not changed as they could not get the caliper to retract!
Caliper holder bolts in stupid tight. Gave up on them and took off the upright off, and put it in the vice to try and get the holder bolts out - one freed off, the other not moving, with a 4ft bar, heated twice, shock cooled, hit it, swore at it and then the 6pt impact socket rounded the nut off. Welded another nut on the top putting loads of heat in, still not moving!
Ugga dugga machine tomorrow.
First up investigate the sticky brakes N/S, - sliders seem ok maybe more grease, needs new pads as they way down, I'll just wind in the caliper. Nope not happening, open bleeder, nope still not happening.
Remove caliper to bench 8 bar of air pressure - still not moving in or out. Pulled off the boot and rotated the piston with a stilson - that moved it, some hitting with a hammer and free. The seal had not been put in properly and let water in - Guess that explains the sticky brakes then. New pistons ordered.
Right,next. O/S wheel off to get the upright off for the bearing change, locking wheel nut first, damn that's tight, no that's really really tight. Sheared the pins inside of the locking key
The nut looks like this
and the key had 2 vertical bars in it, now smushed. So I milled out the mess inside of the key and welded a couple of beads in it in the right place then gently placed it on the nut with a BFH, used a spider with the end supported on a jackstand and used a 4ft pipe. Came off but they were all on stupid tight, even had to give the wheel a good kicking to get it to come off!
Caliper off ok - lots of meat on the pads - I am guessing the N/S were not changed as they could not get the caliper to retract!
Caliper holder bolts in stupid tight. Gave up on them and took off the upright off, and put it in the vice to try and get the holder bolts out - one freed off, the other not moving, with a 4ft bar, heated twice, shock cooled, hit it, swore at it and then the 6pt impact socket rounded the nut off. Welded another nut on the top putting loads of heat in, still not moving!
Ugga dugga machine tomorrow.
rtcosic
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Main Dealer servicing?
Check for parts availability before making assumptions. I embarked on a 'routine' overhaul of the rear brakes of our last X200 S-Type. I've learned about the odd-sized Allen key so was prepared for that. New discs, pads ordered. Disassembled, caliper cleaned and checked all free-moving, no leaks, all good. Slider pins lost most of their chrome plating and causing the sticktion and uneven pad wear.
Nothing unusual there then.
No problem just stick new ones in.
Nope.
Fronts are readily available. Rears not listed anywhere including the main dealer's parts book. Not packaged with replacement calipers either.
Fine steel wool and metal polish and lots of lube and hope!
Never did find a source for them, nor what main dealers might do if presented with that problem.
Check for parts availability before making assumptions. I embarked on a 'routine' overhaul of the rear brakes of our last X200 S-Type. I've learned about the odd-sized Allen key so was prepared for that. New discs, pads ordered. Disassembled, caliper cleaned and checked all free-moving, no leaks, all good. Slider pins lost most of their chrome plating and causing the sticktion and uneven pad wear.
Nothing unusual there then.
No problem just stick new ones in.
Nope.
Fronts are readily available. Rears not listed anywhere including the main dealer's parts book. Not packaged with replacement calipers either.
Fine steel wool and metal polish and lots of lube and hope!
Never did find a source for them, nor what main dealers might do if presented with that problem.
owas
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Rear brake disk shields are bad,
Not available... Or were for a brief period through the Aston Martin route, so you can imagine how expensive they are.
Hold the handbrake shoes so no choice but to make the old ones work,theyre usualy rusty.
£15 for a pair on a BMW for practically the same thing
Not available... Or were for a brief period through the Aston Martin route, so you can imagine how expensive they are.
Hold the handbrake shoes so no choice but to make the old ones work,theyre usualy rusty.
£15 for a pair on a BMW for practically the same thing
RaceDiagnostics
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Wightsparks
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Has 98K last stamp at 91K at an indi. Tyres have been on there a while (will be replacing), The nuts were not corroded just flippin tight.
The Allen key did take me by surprise (who the heck uses a 7mm Allen key, only Jaguar!), fortunately I had one. Picked up a full front service kit
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jaguar-X...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
But still no luck on an ABS nut. And now I need 4 wheel nuts so I can ditch the stupid lockers. Thanks for the heads up on supply issues
rtcosic
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As I was doing an X200 which is on a Ford platform I'd guess Ford introduced the 7mm. However calipers are a bought in component so it may just be the whim of the brake component manufacturer.
@Wightsparks that kit doesn't have the slider pins. Are yours in good condition and/or available?
(What is the correct name for the slider pins?)
@Wightsparks that kit doesn't have the slider pins. Are yours in good condition and/or available?
(What is the correct name for the slider pins?)
slim_boy_fat
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Iirc, BMW have them on the calipers too.
