Just picked up an ML7

[Turbo]

Nice find, did it fit in the Avensis?

You don't need a toolpost to get started, you already have the original tool holder included which is perfectly adequate.

This goes onto the the stud on the top slide and clamps the tool down. Here is one fitted to my ML7.

I have a 4 way toolpost for my lathe but I haven't got around to fitting it as I find this one so simple to use.

There's no need to buy a manual, download if for free from here.
http://www.small-lathes.co.uk/files/1.388149myfordml7manual.pdf
http://www.small-lathes.co.uk/files/1.388149myfordml7manual.pdf
Recommended oil for the headstock bearings is hydraulic oil 32. Engine oil is not advisable, something about it damages the white metal bearings. To lube the slides use way oil if you can get it, I use a light gear oil.

It looks like you have a near complete set of change gears, the manual has a full list.

Here's a thread I started on my lathe with more pics.
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/bought-another-lathe-a-myford-ml7-tri-leva.55396/

 

[choco]

@Turbo, the lathe itself had loads of room in the boot, I took the rear bottom seat out and the stand just about about cleared the door opening the tool holder has a plain Allen bolt in it and no spring, can it still be used ?

 

[Turbo]

There's no spring on my tool holder, is there supposed to be one? The allen bolt would work ok, just have to use grips to turn it, the proper one has a knurled grip on it.
The way it works is you adjust the allen bolt until the cap is sitting level on the top of the tool then you tighten the large nut in the middle, clamping the cap onto the tool.
You could swap the allen set screw for a hex head bolt, then you could use a spanner. Only problem is finding one with the correct thread. My lathe has a mixture of unf, unc, bsf, ba, whitworth and metric threads on the bolts holding it together and it's a nightmare getting the correct bolts. They give the thread in the parts list but that's not always correct as I think they used different fasteners in different production years.

 

[choco]

I think the head of the bolt will be facing down so can't use an Allen key, I can always weld on something to the bolt

 

[choco]

True I'm glad I didn't get that Randa lathe I got this at the same price you said to pay for the randa

 

[choco]

Having a look at the backlash. There is no play in the handle to screw, it seems there is play from the lead screw in to the nut. Does this mean I need. New nut?

Quality is crap don't know if you can make it out

 

[brightspark]

depends on how much backlash there is or what u class as worn all machines have backlash even from new

 

[Richard.]

Depends on what 1/4 of a turn is doesn't it.
Mine has back lash on all the lead screws ranging from 0.1-0.2mm before it picks up. There is obviously some wear on the nut and screw as mine is over 30 years old and yours is over 60.
Back lash can be taken down but it can also be lived with. Replace all worn parts and what ever back lash you have left over is what you'll have to live with.
The movements in those handles didn't look particularly bad to me (novice by the way) but I've seen 3/4 of a turn before engagement and that was also "lived with" back lash.

 

[choco]

Its only the compound slide I'm concerned about. It has a 1/4 turn before it picks up. I'm asking in case there is an adjustment to pick up the backlash instead of buying a new lead screw and nut. (I'm a novice I don't know anything about lathes) if not I'll live with it. There was a mention about adjusting the top slide for backlash in an earlier post and i had a look at the compound slide asking is the wear in the lead screw and nut? instead of the handle, I'm thinking it can't be adjusted

 

[Pete.]

1/4 turn isn't so bad. It doesn't really if you have ten thou or a hundred because you must compensate for it in any case.

 

[brightspark]

irrespective of how much makes no odds once pressed up against the work piece just means u have to back off further if u move over your last cut and re enter

 

[Richard.]

^^^^^
Exactly. As BS rightly said wherever you have a nut and thread your gonna have some degree of play.
If you didn't it wouldn't turn.
To eliminate play all together on a lead screw then your looking at ball nut and screw races.

 

[choco]

Great nothing to worry about so, i plan on keeping this for a long time so just checking through everything thanks for the info

 

[brightspark]

just checked my myford top slide and quarter of a turn before take up that's from new as its hardly ever moved

 

[Henrik]

I have about 3/4 turns before mine changes direction (atlas 10f) but tbh it doesn't make any difference when you're taking straight cuts, just make sure the slack has been taken up in the opposite direction of the cutting forces (ie if boring, make sure the backlash has been taken up in the in-out direction etc).

Having said that, my next project for the lathe after my new lead screw is to replace the cross slide screw with a new metric one.

 

[hareng]

Ive slept and aged since scrapped an ML7 in 2000 but mine hadn't any means of taking the backlash out of cross feed even with the long cross slide and screw fitted after. Problem with mine was at the black outboard bracket solved with a series of Belleville washers think 6mm ish bore.

Never had a QR tool post on mine just made up several blocks each with a series of holes for different boring bars and exact tool heights. Can easily mill the slots to get correct tool height for cutters used no packing required.

Bearings are naff was the white metal needing constant adjustment to eliminate chatter but in doing so only had 20 mins before spindle slowed oil pots full. Duly made phosphor bronze bushes and scraped them in.

Had a 1hp Brooke Compton motor on mine it transformed it in to something usable from standard 1/3hp motor.
In all fairness mine was a bit of a work horse needed constant repairs and full on rebuilds every 6 months. In 3 years had two regrinds, take it easy on the cuts.
That said it had 1000's of hours of abuse.

Collected mine in 92 with original stand, full change wheels, face plates, chucks the lot in a mark 1 XR2.

 

[Richard.]

Ive slept and aged since scrapped an ML7 in 2000 but mine hadn't any means of taking the backlash out of cross feed even with the long cross slide and screw fitted after. Problem with mine was at the black outboard bracket solved with a series of Belleville washers think 6mm ish bore.

Never had a QR tool post on mine just made up several blocks each with a series of holes for different boring bars and exact tool heights. Can easily mill the slots to get correct tool height for cutters used no packing required.

Bearings are naff was the white metal needing constant adjustment to eliminate chatter but in doing so only had 20 mins before spindle slowed oil pots full. Duly made phosphor bronze bushes and scraped them in.

Had a 1hp Brooke Compton motor on mine it transformed it in to something usable from standard 1/3hp motor.
In all fairness mine was a bit of a work horse needed constant repairs and full on rebuilds every 6 months. In 3 years had two regrinds, take it easy on the cuts.
That said it had 1000's of hours of abuse.

Collected mine in 92 with original stand, full change wheels, face plates, chucks the lot in a mark 1 XR2.

Sounds to me like a Myford simply wasn't suitable for you or your demands from a lathe
Bottom line as pricey as they are they are lighter duty lathes designed for doing very good work within there limits. Every thing we buy has limits and if they are exceeded regularly then as we know problems occur. I couldn't take 2mm off the diameter of any metal in mine. No way, I'd end up killing it. But with small cuts nipping away at small parts I hit some seriously tight tolerances on it which is what counts for me.

 

[hareng]

Quite correct Richard but couldn't at the time afford anything else till 2000 when landed an over priced Harrison 140 that took 8 years to kill.
ML7 seriously modded not comparable to standard it still struggled at sub 1/16" cuts ok around 0.4mm cuts, took an eternity. It did have a lot of abuse changed two Dewhurst switches. 140 could do in 10 mins what ML7 took in excess of 7 hrs, no joke and only 1/2hp more motor.

End of the day its a tool and tools wear and need to be replaced, cost me £400 all in in 92.

 

[choco]

Looks like there is about 10 thou, run out, is this the right way to measure it ? could be the cheap ass gauge?

 

[brightspark]

the run out may be on the chuck. take it off and clock the spindle make sure threes no crap stopping the chuck going back square on its face