bonding is becoming, or has become, the norm for many joins....we use epoxies in the sign shop all the time and they are very very strong. Hardest part would be how to clamp the work. JP
Clecos are great. This was a second repair but the distortion was massive. Ended up doing a third repair in the same vain as Fitzee. This was my first attempt at the 45’ cut thing before I attempted the rear quarter repair. Personally I’d avoid a joggled repair unless it was somewhere obscure like a floorpan or boot floor repair.
I have seen joggled repairs done very well...but by masters of metal shaping. it can be done along curves, but....... I have seen someone take a flat strip of steel, place it behind an edge, weld it in place then use that as a "joggled repair" but, we all know two layers of metal always traps moisture. When I replaced fender arches on a Toyota Tacoma, I thought of using a joggled edge...but just did not feel I had the experience or talent to attempt it in the end. besides, the butt welded panel I ended up with was far easier to seal and undercoat as I could reach the inner surfaces AND no overlapping metal to worry about.... JP
If you can get ti the back of the panel a joggled edge is brilliant. That way can belt sand the joggle off post weld also to not have a water trap. Done a couple of times when repair patching the middle of large panels, (Where transit windows would be or similar)
I've sussed you'd rather not weld but bond and you need a flange on the curve. As keithski122 suggested, a Rolastep would be ideal although finding one can be difficult and not cheap. I know you've stated you don't like to borrow over buying: I have one here you can use if you run out of other options. https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/media/img_8431_879-jpg.6953/full
Thanks @Spot the welders dog - very good of you. In fact an air driven one arrived on loan this morning, gave it a quick try out without removing the paint and distortion does not seem to be an issue over the gentle curve. 95% of it is single curve so I think it should work out. The edge is as per the breakers so not straight!
I like that result....is it deep enough ?....Grumpy Northerner over at retro rides (readers rides) has done this type of repair successfully. He is a master of the craft. a lot can be learned from his techniques working on rare Jowett cars. specifically which panel gets joggled, how it all gets rust treated, ect. good stuff Jp
Hmm.. now I wonder who lent me the air joggler Grumpy and his mates have set up a forum to showcase their work https://brm-forum.org/ also check out @Johnnybravo 's machining threads on there amazing stuff! It's about 1mm deep, with the 0.25mm beads in the panel bond it might not be deep enough, going to experiment when it stops chucking it down!
small world! Grumpy is an inspiration to anyone caring enough to take a look....you can tell him I said that, Wightsparks....love his work... JP
Nice weather and spare time today, cut the panel down and sorted the interior connections out. Still needs a bit of fettling but its a good fit.
