You thinking high resistance dry joint?The picture isn't great but the solder connection near the top of the discoloured area looks bad. Can you get a better picture?
I'll try get one tomorrow mate. Cheers.The picture isn't great but the solder connection near the top of the discoloured area looks bad. Can you get a better picture?
You thinking high resistance dry joint?
Will it get worse Hugh.If you strip it down and can send me a picture, I do board repair/rework - I'd be happy to replace like for like on that board for you, provided the component on the other side can be identified and can be sourced easily.
Ok Hugh you've convinced me. I'll remove the board tomorrow. This isn't my area of expertise so any advise welcome and I thank you for the generous offer I'll ensure it's repaid one way or another.My gut feeling is: Those 4 solder joints are the ends of through-hole (conventional, the component has wire leads, not surface mount) resistors which have got hot. The devices with the 4x philips-pan-recess screws are SOT-223 packaged power devices, probably IGBT's so that board is probably the primary hi-frequency inverter (converts the DC bus into AC) and output inverter (generates the output AC waveforms) board.
Without looking at the board and tracing the circuit through it's very hard to tell what the components are being used for (high power inverter design isn't my area of work) and therefore whether they will deteriorate any further.
If it gets hotter, you would be looking at board damage and track damage. Repairing the damaged track would be a point-to-point wiring job which is technically fine but can look a bit rough if it isn't well done.
Thanks Jim. I'll do that mate. Cheers.The last thing you wany is the board burning and turning into carbon. Carbon is not well known for its insulating properties and it will facilitate the escape of magic blue smoke and angry pixies at the first opportunity.
To be fair, I see hot spots on boards that have discoloured on a very regular basis with seemingly no ill effect but it's well worth having a second opinion given the pricey nature of Fronius boards.
Yes we can leave till you return mate. It's working as it should at the mo infact it's working a lot better since swapping torches over. If I strip it today I cannot finish the work I need it for and I'm without it for sometime. I'll whip the cover off after every use to see if it worsens until I get it looked at and sorted.I fly to Singapore on Saturday anyway and aren't back till the 3rd, best leave it till I get back.
I don't think hf leakage caused that. Until we now what components are on that board, we won't be able to speculate why they got hot. Are they gate drive resistors? Are they clamping diodes? I'll pm you richard.
No mate. Sorry. I'm gonna call you this evening hugh. Tbth im not confident in removing that board at all even after my tasks with the machine are complete. It's not my skill set and everything in there looks so delicate and I fear I'm gonna do something to completely balls it up. We need to have a chat I think mate.Do you have access to a thermal imaging camera by chance (seek thermal or flir one perhaps)?
Just to let you know mate I appreciate the time and thought your putting in to help me out.yes, I think a good chat about a way forward would be sensible. We'll talk tonight
Do you have access to a thermal imaging camera by chance (seek thermal or flir one perhaps)?
Is your Mls causing any function problems or is it the same as mine (working fine but evidence of a potential problem).I have and the bank of 6 surface mounted resistors were getting very hot. (Still to be fixed Kemppi mls)