- Thread starter Edward Yemm
- Start date
Edward Yemm
Member
- Messages
- 469
- Location
- Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire, England
I’ll look at Mipa products. I have a data sheet for their clear coat in the photos on my phone as I couldn’t find one for technico coatings. On the plus side. Fast hardener allows you to move the gun slower in awkward to move confined spaces. Less chance of jerking the gun and ending up with a run or missing a bit. Got more time to throw my body out of the way and give my arm room to work as everything is happening in slow motion as it were.
carbon
Member
- Messages
- 2,992
- Location
- S. Glos. U.K
This is the bit I was hoping you would see, you purchased a new spraygun, and have sorted air compressor with a sensible regulator. But you still don’t know the viscosity value, possibly ok if you do this for a living. If you have to much thinners then more likely to have runs, to little and more chance of getting orange peel.
Possibly it was mixed a little different and affected the finish slightly
Watch this from the gunman, you may be adding to much thinner.
I’m not sure why but sometimes when painting direct gloss black from one manufacturer I very rarely need to add any thinner to get the recommended viscosity
Edward Yemm
Member
- Messages
- 469
- Location
- Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire, England
Yes mate. I’m reading you loud and clear. As I mentioned. The clear must be a lot thicker than the base as it’s not flowing out and the base is running easily. I know the viscosity could be the issue but I don’t have any viscosity readings in the data sheets for either my base or clear, so it’s hard to adjust stuff. Could go with 5% thinner. Too much of the wrong grade of thinner and it will dry faster than it’s supposed to and stay in blobs. There were blobs everywhere on the first pass. Second pass Less than a minute later and slower. More fluid going on. Going on at a rate that the thinner struggled to keep up with and it flowed out better.
Last edited:
Edward Yemm
Member
- Messages
- 469
- Location
- Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire, England
Also. In another of his videos. If he uses no thinner the orange peel is bad. 5%, 10%, 20% the less he gets. It’s hard to adjust without viscosity readings. Varying paint per manufacturer I suppose.
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
- Messages
- 7,775
- Location
- Cumbria
I've always shot 2k clearcoat with 5% thinners. U-Pol or Tetrosyl IIRC
eliminating Orange peel for me has always just been about NOT putting dry or thin coats on. You can go as thin as you like with base coats.
It's a balance between getting runs and hangs, or getting orange peel. I'd rather have the runs/hangs to sand out, than orange peel.
eliminating Orange peel for me has always just been about NOT putting dry or thin coats on. You can go as thin as you like with base coats.
It's a balance between getting runs and hangs, or getting orange peel. I'd rather have the runs/hangs to sand out, than orange peel.
Edward Yemm
Member
- Messages
- 469
- Location
- Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire, England
On that panel the other day I had 3 runs towards the edges. Then orange peel next to it. I don’t mind having to sand them out. It is a right sod sometimes though when you get one on the first coat and it pulls at the base and wrecks the metallic in that area. Bloody metallic!
Edward Yemm
Member
- Messages
- 469
- Location
- Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire, England
Someone said to me that you have to move cheaper guns slower to get good coverage. Whether I use 2K or 1K which you cannot mix, slowing my gun down equals a better flow out. I’m really not that bothered. As long as I can get nice flowing orange peel instead of hills and valleys.
Edward Yemm
Member
- Messages
- 469
- Location
- Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire, England
I’ll have a play around with what little 2K clear I’ve got left. I have an area inside the boot which needs spot spraying. I can try to get that time.
Edward Yemm
Member
- Messages
- 469
- Location
- Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire, England
Where do you buy your Mipa products from? I had a look and there aren’t many clears available in this country with standard hardener. Found one but the seller isn’t giving info on thinner. Just lacquer and hardener available for sale from them. I just asked them a question about it. There are these express clears from Mipa as well. On shopping listings and On a Mipa video on YouTube they only use 2-1 mix and no thinner. Either way, whichever one I choose, I can only stretch to 1.5 litres of it. If I buy a 5 litre it will cost me a lot and I will have paint sat around. I’m only spraying my BMW and that’s it. Once it’s done, I won’t be spraying any more 2K for a long time. Maybe never again? I don’t have an air fed mask. I see there are lots of professionals such as the Gunman who spray 2K in small quantities at home without air fed. They just do the same as I do. Get away from the fumes when finished spraying. Go outside immediately and get lots of fresh air. Only returning when there’s no overspray cloud. I’m going to buy a disposable mask with carbon filters in it. A little bit extra protection for the 1-2 breaths I take whilst spraying.
carbon
Member
- Messages
- 2,992
- Location
- S. Glos. U.K
Carpaintwarehouse sell mipa not sure what clears that they sell. May be worth contacting mipa to see who stocks the clear you are after
Possibly 12 years ago I wanted some Max Meyer ms clear and was told by numerous suppliers that they could only supply hs clear, I think one stockist even told me it was illegal to sell ms clear. Found the phone number for Max Meyer uk and asked them if it was available, was asked by them how many pallets did I want as they had loads in there warehouse. Bought it through a supplier they recommended
Possibly 12 years ago I wanted some Max Meyer ms clear and was told by numerous suppliers that they could only supply hs clear, I think one stockist even told me it was illegal to sell ms clear. Found the phone number for Max Meyer uk and asked them if it was available, was asked by them how many pallets did I want as they had loads in there warehouse. Bought it through a supplier they recommended
Edward Yemm
Member
- Messages
- 469
- Location
- Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire, England
I’ll try that then. I’m thinking, just for now to buy a Mipa standard thinner from Car paint warehouse and a upol standard 2K hardener. I’ll use up the small tin of 2K lacquer from my cousin in law. I can experiment with viscosity. I’ll just mix the smallest amount possible, then start to adjust everything until I get that time you suggested. I’ll start with no thinner. Once my lacquer is used up, I’ll contact the paint manufacturers for advice on getting a new set of 2K clear.
Edward Yemm
Member
- Messages
- 469
- Location
- Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire, England
I’m still undecided on what to do. There are plenty of lacquers available from Mipa but you can’t seem to buy the lacquer on its own. If I buy hardener and thinner for the price they will cost I may as well just buy a kit. I just got off the phone to Car paint warehouse. The kits they sell are all 7.5 litres. I’ll need a smaller kit. I’m confused as to why my Cousin in law has only the lacquer left? Perhaps he misplaced the hardener. Mipa do so many different 2K clears. I don’t know which one to go for?
the snooper
getting older by the day
- Messages
- 21,078
- Location
- Hull UK
Why did you have the fluid adjustment nearly fully open ? Too much flow = runs and orange peel Along with too higher pressure and too close to the work piece, mix the Paint as stated set pressure and keep the distance and speed constant, on a test piece ( not your car but flat steel ) open the flow adjustment just enough to get a nice wet coat without it running or sagging and open the fan to give optimal coverage without creating excess overspray, also go careful near swage lines etc where paint can build then run
Edward Yemm
Member
- Messages
- 469
- Location
- Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire, England
The ones I can afford are:
Mipa 2K Express klarlack CX4 clear with HX4 hardener. This is recommended for spot repair or partial painting.
For bigger objects they recommend using the HS25 standard hardener.
I’d have to ask the company what thinner they recommend for that.
Mipa 2K express Klarlack CX11 with HS25 standard hardener. Cures very quickly at room temperature to speed up repair process.
Mipa 2K CC9 HS Klarlack clear with HS25 standard hardener. High solids. Good for complete coating or spot repairs.
Mipa 2K CC8 HS Klarlack clear with HS25 standard hardener. Best for all climates. Easy to apply.
All from same company and all in my price range. Marlow paint supplies. They recommend up to 5% V25 thinner with the CC9. It’s just a shame that the Mipa site is down. I can’t look at data sheets unless it’s all printed on the sides of their cans including viscosity?
Mipa 2K Express klarlack CX4 clear with HX4 hardener. This is recommended for spot repair or partial painting.
For bigger objects they recommend using the HS25 standard hardener.
I’d have to ask the company what thinner they recommend for that.
Mipa 2K express Klarlack CX11 with HS25 standard hardener. Cures very quickly at room temperature to speed up repair process.
Mipa 2K CC9 HS Klarlack clear with HS25 standard hardener. High solids. Good for complete coating or spot repairs.
Mipa 2K CC8 HS Klarlack clear with HS25 standard hardener. Best for all climates. Easy to apply.
All from same company and all in my price range. Marlow paint supplies. They recommend up to 5% V25 thinner with the CC9. It’s just a shame that the Mipa site is down. I can’t look at data sheets unless it’s all printed on the sides of their cans including viscosity?
Last edited:
Edward Yemm
Member
- Messages
- 469
- Location
- Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire, England
The tests I did on those thinners cans the other day. Fluid 2-3 turns out. Car panel 5-6 turns out. Less turns didn’t make any difference the other day. Still had to slow the gun down a bit to get good flow out.
the snooper
getting older by the day
- Messages
- 21,078
- Location
- Hull UK
You need to be looking at the applied paint from an angle not 90° to see how it has been applied, too little on and you're chasing dry edges all the time to much and it won't necessarily run but will end up textured like your picture
Edward Yemm
Member
- Messages
- 469
- Location
- Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire, England
Yes. I’ve been looking across it at all angles. It’s nice and smooth across the upper part of the door apart from one corner where I can’t have kept the gun on quite long enough. Then the paint is consistent in smooth flowing orange peel until I get towards the bottom where the gun ran out of paint and there is a lot of high orange peel.
