Is this orange peel or dry spray?

[bert]

Base coat really needs 3 coats for full coverage. You don't need to worry about getting full coverage or a shine to that.

Clear coat also put on 3 or 4 coats to allow you to cut and polish, don't worry about getting a mirror finish as it's not going to happen with the kit you have and where you are spraying.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

I'm no painter but to me there doesn't look to be a lot of space in there to get the gun moving in the right plane.
[i.e. in an arc?]

Happy to be shot down by someone who knows [for sure ].

 

[Edward Yemm]

Use the same method as you did for basecoat.

That’s ok then. That’s how I was planning to go about it but wasn’t sure? I thought, beforehand, that I just set the gun up with base coat in it, then it will be ok with clear as well.

 

[Edward Yemm]

It may be ok when you have the same ambient temperature as he has in Australia
and a heated booth. But not sure you will get the same results in a garage in the uk

Yes. Perhaps not. He did say that he’s painting at 35 degrees temperature. I best not mess about with anything then. The only shocking looking spray patterns he produces in his tests are where he uses no thinner at all. European finishes are with 10% thinner. Japanese finishes are a little bit smoother with 20%.

 

[Edward Yemm]

Base coat really needs 3 coats for full coverage. You don't need to worry about getting full coverage or a shine to that.

Clear coat also put on 3 or 4 coats to allow you to cut and polish, don't worry about getting a mirror finish as it's not going to happen with the kit you have and where you are spraying.

That’s the same amount of coats I’m using now. I think I can make my clear coat results a little bit more consistent with practice though. I don’t want to have to be doing too much cutting and polishing. I’m only going to tackle the second half with cutting and polishing. Would be nice if the bad looking areas cut out ok but I’m not so sure? Maybe they are too far this time? Find out in a days time when I’ve given it 2 days to harden up a bit.

 

[Edward Yemm]

I'm no painter but to me there doesn't look to be a lot of space in there to get the gun moving in the right plane.
[i.e. in an arc?]

Happy to be shot down by someone who knows [for sure ].

There’s no space when tackling the lower areas of the car. I keep getting runs on the door so I gave up with that for now. My other garage was nearly half a metre wider. Better but still not ideal. To do the rear arch I had to lie on the floor. Ha ha.

 

[Edward Yemm]

Now I watched a video and I understand that if you get orange peel you don’t have to cut it completely flat to make the car look nice. If you meet it halfway when sanding it’s supposed to look a lot nicer. I want orange peel but just not too high and hazy.

 

[carbon]

I don't think you will find an oem finish that doesn't have some sort of orange peel finish. Some are going to be better than others. You really need to get somewhere close to the original finish otherwise its going to look a little obvious that some of the vehicle has been painted and some hasn't. A perfectly smooth finish may be possible with spraygun you have but would assume that there would be some considerable testing required to find the correct settings for air pressure etc. I've been looking at some different sprayguns and have found the some of the the higher priced ones have several different options for aircaps and fluid nozzle combinations all of which are considerably higher priced than your complete spraygun. Some spraygun manufactures have aircap and fluid nozzle charts for different paint manufactures to achieve optimum results, so it does look like one combination isn't necessarily going to be the best.

 

[Edward Yemm]

This is more like it. I didn’t have to adjust the gun an awful lot differently to how it was set for basecoat apart from turning the fan in about 1/8 of a turn. This time I had my fluid as far open as it would go. Wound it in, just until it started to move the handle forwards. I had to move the gun stupidly fast with the basecoat and use less than 50% overlap otherwise I got runs. The clear however, it must go through the gun a lot slower because of the thickness. I had to move the gun quite slow to get good flow out. The first pass didn’t look like there was enough material down as it wasn’t flowing properly so I immediately went back over the whole lot but slower. Also this time I used 75% overlap. Unfortunately I ran out of paint 2/3 of the way down on the second pass so it looks a mess from then on. Always from now I will make sure my pot is at least half full every panel. Learning curve but slowly winning! Less cutting and polishing for me this time. Only the bottom 1/3. I may just leave the rest as it is.

 

[Edward Yemm]

Also. My devilbiss SLG 600 has started leaking slightly from the packing washer. I followed the instructions when I set it up initially. Tighten packing nut until it starts to bind, then back it off just until needle moves freely. So what should I do now? Tighten it down a bit more as long as the needle continues to move freely or get on the phone to devilbiss for a new packing nut?

 

[carbon]

Do you have the data sheet for the clear as that should give you the viscosity value on that, add the appropriate amount of thinners until that time is reached.

From the manual

Spray Gun Lubrication

1.Apply a drop of GL-1 spray gun lube at trigger bearing stud and the stem of the air valve.
The shank of the fluid needle where it enters the packing nut should also be oiled. The fluid needle packing should be kept soft and pliable by periodic lubrication.

2.Make sure the baffle and retaining ring threads are clean and free of foreign matter. Before assembling retaining ring to baffle, clean the threads thoroughly, then add two drops of GL-1spray gun lube to threads.

3.The fluid needle spring and air valve spring should be coated with a light grease, making sure that any excess grease will not clog the air passages.

For best results, lubricate the points indicated, daily.
A. Trigger Points
B. Packing
C. Adjusting Valves
D. Baffle/Air Cap Threads
E. Needle adjusting knob and spring (inside knob)

 

[Edward Yemm]

Do you have the data sheet for the clear as that should give you the viscosity value on that, add the appropriate amount of thinners until that time is reached.

From the manual

Spray Gun Lubrication

1.Apply a drop of GL-1 spray gun lube at trigger bearing stud and the stem of the air valve.
The shank of the fluid needle where it enters the packing nut should also be oiled. The fluid needle packing should be kept soft and pliable by periodic lubrication.

2.Make sure the baffle and retaining ring threads are clean and free of foreign matter. Before assembling retaining ring to baffle, clean the threads thoroughly, then add two drops of GL-1spray gun lube to threads.

3.The fluid needle spring and air valve spring should be coated with a light grease, making sure that any excess grease will not clog the air passages.

For best results, lubricate the points indicated, daily.
A. Trigger Points
B. Packing
C. Adjusting Valves
D. Baffle/Air Cap Threads
E. Needle adjusting knob and spring (inside knob)

There are no data sheets online for technico coatings mate. Only the health and safety sheets. No viscosity value. All I know is, I’m using fast thinners and extra fast hardener. I’ll re check to see if I missed it. Failing that, I’ll email technico to see if they recommend different hardener for 20 degrees and see if they have a viscosity rating that I can test with my ford#4 viscosity cups. I presume I do all the lubricating with the gun assembled fully. Otherwise the oil will get into the paint. I have been lightly coating the needle with Vaseline from my gun cleaning set. I’ll have to get the GL1 oil. I’ve got 3 in 1 multipurpose oil that I use from time to time now.

 

[carbon]

Even registering on there site doesn't give you access to any tds, I'm not sure I'd want to use there products, without knowing the correct mixing ratio. I have used paint that had a 5:3 ratio but tds was given over the counter for the product.

 

[Edward Yemm]

Even registering on there site doesn't give you access to any tds, I'm not sure I'd want to use there products, without knowing the correct mixing ratio. I have used paint that had a 5:3 ratio but tds was given over the counter for the product.

Mixing ratio is written on the tin but that’s all. 2:1 + 10% thinner. 2 lacquer 1 hardener.

 

[Edward Yemm]

I had a bit of a look around the web. The extra fast hardener may be ok? Perhaps I need to look for a fast hardener to replace it. Eastwood painting say fast hardeners are ok in temperatures less than 21 degrees. If temperature goes anywhere up to 26 then it’s best to use medium hardener but if over 26 degrees they say it flashes too fast and can give a dry spray texture. I could be right on the verge of the product flashing as I’m spraying it. I’m running low on hardener so I’ll perhaps order fast next time around.

 

[Edward Yemm]

But then, I had to move the gun slowly with that 1K the other day. I don’t think it will matter too much. I can move the gun slower but just keep it moving so I don’t get runs.

 

[Edward Yemm]

Data sheets for UPOL hardeners say extra fast is for 5-10 degrees. Fast 10-15 degrees, standard 15-30 and slow for anything over 30. I could try a fast or standard hardener from upol.

 

[carbon]

Have a look at some information from paint manufacturers about orange peel. Here’s one https://www.glasurit.com/uk/orange-peel-effect

 

[Edward Yemm]

Yes mate. I’ve lost count of the amount of times I’ve scrolled through paint defects guides over the years.
Gun is handspan away from job. Less in places because of my elbow knocking into the wall.
Gun is being run at recommended pressure of about 29psi
Paint film too thick. More paint is better finish in this case.
Viscosity too high. Mixed according to specifications.
Hardener/thinner too fast for conditions or size of object (most likely this)
Tip size too small. 1.2-1.3 is ok for clear. Mine is 1.3.
Flash off time too long. Clear was sprayed within 30 minutes of base as per recommendations. Defect was apparent on first coat of clear so flash off between clear isn’t the issue.

 

[Edward Yemm]

I won’t let it bug me too much anyway mate. I’ll buy some fast hardener from UPOL. If I have to work the gun slower to get a more even finish then that’s what I’ll do. Still got plenty of thinner left and a tin of 2K lacquer from my cousin in law. That was left after he sprayed his brothers car.