KICKSY
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Times 2, do it right do it once.
- Thread starter steveo3002
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Thats exactly the problem I had, kitchen extended into what used to be a coal shed.
And that's more or less how I sorted it, I used 25mm insulation as I was really tight for space and had already cut 100mm of the back of the new kitchen units. Looking back 50mm would have been much better as the room was always cold - its surprising how much heat can be lost through a small area.
down the shed
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Is it not possible to do something with the exterior of the wall? Might be something to look into now, heave read that those that were doing cut price or free cavity wall insulation are now moving onto houses with no cavity walls and applying exterior insulation, could be the way to go for you too.
blenkie1
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Its nots just the walls that are the problem though, its a kitchen, water, steam, humidity from the inside. Yes insulate the walls but get rid of the condensation from the cooking put a big fan in. Like I said we put polysterene backed boards in our bedroom which was covered in mould and it has come back. Damp from the outside is not always the problem. The solution we come up with was to fit a vent to get the air moving.
The bitumen paint sounds like a good idea.
You could metal tophat it rather than using timber battens, gives you about 25mm between wall and board.
You can also get plasterboard with insulation already fixed to it which would save time. The insulation section could be "routered" out where the tophat is to leave a minimum intrusion into the room.
You could metal tophat it rather than using timber battens, gives you about 25mm between wall and board.
You can also get plasterboard with insulation already fixed to it which would save time. The insulation section could be "routered" out where the tophat is to leave a minimum intrusion into the room.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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We have sold brick too (1930s house)....we used insulated plasterboard on the inside and it really helped a lot.
Isn't very thick but it made a big difference...you dot and dab it on....but it also needs a mechanical fixing too for fire protection (stop it falling off the wall in a fire). They sell nail in fixings for this purpose....you drill and nail after the dot and dab has gone off.
Isn't very thick but it made a big difference...you dot and dab it on....but it also needs a mechanical fixing too for fire protection (stop it falling off the wall in a fire). They sell nail in fixings for this purpose....you drill and nail after the dot and dab has gone off.
Farside
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Courtesy of Google...
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clift_d
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Whatever buildup you add to inside of the wall you should make sure you have a good vapour control layer inside of your insulation, otherwise some of the moisture in the kitchen air will migrate into the wall buildup and condense inside the wall. This could be a proper polythene VCL with well taped joints, or foil backed plasterboard, but you will need to ensure that you include it. If it's a solid single brick wall then I would also second those suggesting you look into making sure that no moisture can migrate into the wall from outside, for example a lime render coat or weatherboarding outside - but try to get something that's it's breathable, so the brick can dry out if it gets wet at all.
Stueeee
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Hadn't seen this 'blast from past' thread before, but thanks to it being resurrected, I have found some good potential solutions to use in a rental property we own. The bathroom there has been partially created from the coal store which had a single brick thickness wall.
Morrisman
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1" x 2" battens, screwed to the wall, with 1" polystyrene in the spaces, then board over it with plasterboard, plywood, or OSB like I did in our old outhouse.
The condensation is coming from inside the room, so that insulation will stop it appearing, and unless there is damp coming through the bricks you should not have a problem. Space lost, maximum 1 1/2" per wall.
Just noticed, this thread goes back 8 years.
The condensation is coming from inside the room, so that insulation will stop it appearing, and unless there is damp coming through the bricks you should not have a problem. Space lost, maximum 1 1/2" per wall.
Just noticed, this thread goes back 8 years.
Screwdriver
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Me too. My bathroom has two exterior single brick walls. Been meaning to get some insulation in there. I think there's some government grant or other happening as we speak??
Mine is a converted "pantry" in an old victorian property so it sort of sticks out from the main dwelling, bit like a simple shed tacked onto the corner.
If I understand correctly, the consensus is vapour barrier on the bare wall, batten and insulated plasterboard. Would I be right in thinking you'd have to install some forced ventilation, an extractor fan or risk some serious condensation buildup behind the panel?
I dream of having a warm bathroom in the winter. It was built to act like a fridge and it's a very effective room for that.
gaz1
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ive posted this up screwdriver same method though
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/tanking-old-houses.102976/#post-1611760
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/tanking-old-houses.102976/#post-1611760
Screwdriver
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Thanks gaz, not sure I need to tank it, just want it to be less of a cold room.
I am worried by the comments about mould growing behind the insulation if you do it wrong and I have no experience of insulating a bathroom. This place gets muderously cold in winter. Not much I can do about it except burn through heating bills. This room in particular though would make a pretty good morgue.
I am worried by the comments about mould growing behind the insulation if you do it wrong and I have no experience of insulating a bathroom. This place gets muderously cold in winter. Not much I can do about it except burn through heating bills. This room in particular though would make a pretty good morgue.
dobbslc
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This is what I did with a single skin brick utility room.
Vapour barrier on the brickwork then 2x4 studwork that I filled between with 100mm Kingspan the plaster boarded over the top.
It turned a very cold room into one of the warmest in the house!
You can get plasterboard with 25mm Kingspan already bonded to it so saving time and space and I recon that would make a big improvement on it's own, we went 100mm to keep the building control bod happy.
Now looks like this,
Vapour barrier on the brickwork then 2x4 studwork that I filled between with 100mm Kingspan the plaster boarded over the top.
It turned a very cold room into one of the warmest in the house!
You can get plasterboard with 25mm Kingspan already bonded to it so saving time and space and I recon that would make a big improvement on it's own, we went 100mm to keep the building control bod happy.
Now looks like this,
Screwdriver
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Thanks dobbsic, I think I'll go with something similar though I am tempted with the idea of just painting on some bitumen. Mine is an odd shaped space only two of the walls really need insulation (2 1/2) plus I mounted the CH system on one of them which I'd need to either build around or move. I really don't want to move it! I'm thinking of just building a cupboard around it, maybe insulate that? 
My gut feeling is that without 100% coverage any "cold bridge" or uninsulated area is going to get dripping wet if there's ever any heat in there.
My gut feeling is that without 100% coverage any "cold bridge" or uninsulated area is going to get dripping wet if there's ever any heat in there.
gaz1
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i prefer my stuff due to the bobbles on it this allows it to breath much better as it has plenty of air movement compared to vapour barrier
then using the framing method and insulation it will improve it more
bitumen dosnt allow it to breath and will lock in any moisture in the materials and therefore can damage your materials
then using the framing method and insulation it will improve it more
bitumen dosnt allow it to breath and will lock in any moisture in the materials and therefore can damage your materials
clift_d
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By all means put a VCL or tanking on the brick first, if you want to, but you'd still be advised to put some type of VCL inside of the insulation. If you don't have this inner VCL then water vapour that gets into the wall buildup, which is likely in a bathroom or kitchen, will condense inside the wall where the temperature gradient drops low enough - at what is called the dew point.
