daleyd
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Not really - the coil should bring the orange tab across. Pushing the tab doesn’t prove the coil is good, all you are doing is the job the coil should be doing.
- Thread starter tony69
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daleyd
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Ah ok - then we need to maybe start working backwards and find where you do have it? If you can make a fag packet sketch of where the wires go, from the start button onwards then it would be a good start.
I assume it should be going through the stop button (you should see it both sides of that switch) and also maybe through a pressure switch?
daleyd
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I dont think there can be much in the circuit, just a case of mapping it out and being methodical 
A quick test for the coil operation would be to make a jumper wire, connect it in somewhere that does have 24v (do it with power off) and connect the other end directly on A1. When you power up you should see the orange tab move across with voltage on, if not then coil is u/s - but obviously if your not getting 24v then it’s a good bet this is the prob.
A quick test for the coil operation would be to make a jumper wire, connect it in somewhere that does have 24v (do it with power off) and connect the other end directly on A1. When you power up you should see the orange tab move across with voltage on, if not then coil is u/s - but obviously if your not getting 24v then it’s a good bet this is the prob.
Thats brill mate will do. I've done a diagram hope it makes sence. I will put pics of board for ref as well. Let me know if I've missed anything .
daleyd
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That’s interesting, I hadn’t realised the board must be doing some logic - I had assumed that it was just generating the 24v, but it looks like the switches go back to it, and the board decides when it’s going to send the 24v to the coil.
I guess there’s a couple of options here.
1. The board is faulty and isn’t giving the right output no matter what the inputs are.
2. The board is expecting something that it’s not getting, eg an input from a pressure switch, or something else?
I don’t know anything about the board, I I’ve seen hydrovane circuits before but they don’t have that circuit board - they use standard components and are pretty easy to fault find on.
Might be worth seeing what info we can get on the board, see if there is some description of what it does and how it does it.
As a first check, all the fuses etc are ok?
I guess there’s a couple of options here.
1. The board is faulty and isn’t giving the right output no matter what the inputs are.
2. The board is expecting something that it’s not getting, eg an input from a pressure switch, or something else?
I don’t know anything about the board, I I’ve seen hydrovane circuits before but they don’t have that circuit board - they use standard components and are pretty easy to fault find on.
Might be worth seeing what info we can get on the board, see if there is some description of what it does and how it does it.
As a first check, all the fuses etc are ok?
If the first digit of the part number on the board (slightly obscured by the red wire) is a 7, then part number being 71895 suggests it's an over temperature or OTC board:
https://www.air-equipment-shop.co.u...hydrovane-otc-over-temperature-board-71895-01
If you can get a clear straight on picture of the front of the board, as big as possible, and also the same of the rear of the board, I can probably trace out the circuit diagram and figure out what's it's inputs & outputs are.
https://www.air-equipment-shop.co.u...hydrovane-otc-over-temperature-board-71895-01
If you can get a clear straight on picture of the front of the board, as big as possible, and also the same of the rear of the board, I can probably trace out the circuit diagram and figure out what's it's inputs & outputs are.
daleyd
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For testing the contactor and the rest of the circuit you could probably bypass the board altogether, just find a 24v supply and send that to your coil A1 connection.
Hopefully if it’s the board that proves faulty you can repair it easily enough, don’t think I’d be paying the advertised prices for a new one
Hopefully if it’s the board that proves faulty you can repair it easily enough, don’t think I’d be paying the advertised prices for a new one
Ok, photo's should be good enough. I'll have a look over it but might take an evening or two before I get it done. One further question, where does the cable with the red & blue cores go to exactly, your sketch says to the pump. Whereabouts on the pump, can you get a picture of that end of the cable?
With Hydrovane referring to the board as an over temperature board, that makes me think there is a temperature sensor somewhere.
First thing I've noticed from a quick stare at the board is the start button (terminals 1 & 2 on the board) is on the AC output of the transformer, i.e before the little W005 bridge rectifier. The voltage going out to the start button on terminal 1 and coming back on terminal 2 when the button is pressed will be AC volts. So if you had your meter set on DC volts that's probably the reason why you saw no volts at the start button.
With Hydrovane referring to the board as an over temperature board, that makes me think there is a temperature sensor somewhere.
First thing I've noticed from a quick stare at the board is the start button (terminals 1 & 2 on the board) is on the AC output of the transformer, i.e before the little W005 bridge rectifier. The voltage going out to the start button on terminal 1 and coming back on terminal 2 when the button is pressed will be AC volts. So if you had your meter set on DC volts that's probably the reason why you saw no volts at the start button.
Hi guys sorry its taken me so long work has been crazy im afraid. So red wire goes inside the pump and I can't see the end. Only thing I can think of its a sensor for heat. I do have a pic. I'm off tomorrow (friday) so ill test and try all suggestions thanks
OK so proper time testing today. Found im not loosing positive but negative. Tested through board and found on a certain micro chip no neg. This could be something to do with the overheat sensor unsure at this time. Any info on the sensor would be great if not a pic cheers
Hi yes it seems to be fine we tested through there to ne4558. We were unsure if it was that or bc377 . Being pennys opted to swap out both. Unsure if I could loop across the temp sensor wires for testing purposes. Dont want to damage anything at this point.
