Here's a couple of pictures of the info sticker for feed rates and the positions on the yellow bracket.
hope this helps.
- Thread starter ned
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Here's a couple of pictures of the info sticker for feed rates and the positions on the yellow bracket.
hope this helps.
I assume there is a spring inside the hinge mechanism somewhere. All I can say is it's better than the spring that was on the 6x4 Clarke saw I used to use.
james butler
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might sound like a bit off a bodge but could you tape or hang some counter weights behind/off the motor?
thicker the material the more weight you could add, its not very scientific but its a free option
thicker the material the more weight you could add, its not very scientific but its a free option
Bill Edwards
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It sounds like this doesn't require anything other than the correct setting being selected and less 'nannying' in the mistaken belief that the blade shouldn't be under any pressure.
ned
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hi all, appreciate the replies, feel a bit foolish that the saw has an auto secent and i didnt know.
I actually thought it had that when buying it, and so i read the manual looking for info, but eventually gave up.
regarding the above adjustment thingy -
I've changed this to the various positions but it doesnt seem to have any effect whatsoever.... should it freefall with this engaged?
or is it only when its cutting its engaged... i'll re-read the manual now, thanks for the link
I actually thought it had that when buying it, and so i read the manual looking for info, but eventually gave up.
regarding the above adjustment thingy -
I've changed this to the various positions but it doesnt seem to have any effect whatsoever.... should it freefall with this engaged?
or is it only when its cutting its engaged... i'll re-read the manual now, thanks for the link
angellonewolf
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is it possable that some one removed the sticker as it was not working ?
ned
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hiya angellonewolf, nah I removed the stickers, i still have them though.
I have been messing around with a bit. With the above switch set to LL there doesnt seem to be as much weight on the cutting arm... Its not something thats very noticable though, i can see why i missed it.
I have been messing around with a bit. With the above switch set to LL there doesnt seem to be as much weight on the cutting arm... Its not something thats very noticable though, i can see why i missed it.
MattF
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Whack it on the high, (H), setting and just see how fast it cuts the same piece. Honestly man, where's your sense of adventure.... 
That blade has probably dulled anyhow, rubbing on a cut for 9 minutes or so, so doubt you'll knack the blade any more than it already is.
That blade has probably dulled anyhow, rubbing on a cut for 9 minutes or so, so doubt you'll knack the blade any more than it already is.hi all, appreciate the replies, feel a bit foolish that the saw has an auto secent and i didnt know.
I actually thought it had that when buying it, and so i read the manual looking for info, but eventually gave up.
regarding the above adjustment thingy -
I've changed this to the various positions but it doesnt seem to have any effect whatsoever.... should it freefall with this engaged?
or is it only when its cutting its engaged... i'll re-read the manual now, thanks for the link
I just start the saw and set the blade onto the material and let it do it's stuff. I assume there is some sort of spring contained within the hinge and the yellow adjustment device alters the tension on it somehow. I'd try a new blade and see how it performs then. I think you'll notice a massive difference.
The Femi saws are a dry cut bandsaw. Femi recommend not to use coolant/oil. I've cut 60mm solid bar, C channel and thick wall box section and it cuts away great without coolant.
Bill Edwards
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This is thinking not knowing but I can't see any way that applying lubricant is going to be a bad thing for blade life or cut quality. The one concern for me is making the drive for the blade slip with the reduced friction, though I doubt it'd be an issue.
Yes they cut fine dry but I can't see how it hurts to add some lube?
Hood
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Where coolant makes a big difference for me is in Alu, 5083 is no probs but 6082 clogs the teeth after a while. Use coolant and no such issues, doesn't need much, just a trickle on the blade does the job.
outofthefire
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On my vertical bandsaw I used to use rocol cutting paste rather than suds (especially on ally) just because it's not as messy
Hood
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I can see your reasoning there, my horizontal has recirculating coolant so no such issues. WD40 or other oils of that type also work well on Alu, just a quick spray occasionally keeps the teeth free from clogging.
Hood
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Yes I used some diluting orange one day when I was drilling some Alu on a boat and that's all I could find in the wheelhouse
