hydraulic assist for a bandsaw - where to get?

[Bill Edwards]

@richard - I'm just wondering whether you can (easily) point out your bandsaw thread where you rebuilt your saw and made up a coolant system?

 

[waddycall]

saws with coolant have brushes to clean the blade before it reaches the wheels.

 

[Hood]

saws with coolant have brushes to clean the blade before it reaches the wheels.

Some do, some don't, mine doesn't, in fact none of the ones I have owned had them.

 

[waddycall]

I stand corrected!

 

[Hood]

I stand corrected!

I didn't mean to sound snotty, just some do have them and some don't. My friends auto saw had circular wire brushes but as said none of mine have had them, current saw is an Imet 280/60, brilliant saw

 

[Richard.]

See i cut all my alu dry. Different ways I suppose but I find alu sticks in the teeth more so with it than without.
@Bill Edwards i have no idea mate. I've even forgot what the thread title was mate.

 

[waddycall]

I didn't mean to sound snotty, just some do have them and some don't. My friends auto saw had circular wire brushes but as said none of mine have had them, current saw is an Imet 280/60, brilliant saw
View attachment 109048

Sorry hood, no snottiness at all. The only saws I've used with coolant systems have had brushes. Tomet saws. So I do now stand corrected!

 

[Paul.]

@Bill Edwards i have no idea mate. I've even forgot what the thread title was mate.

Then allow me, http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/freebee-in-need-of-tlc.55416/#post-656072

 

[Richard.]

Then allow me, http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/freebee-in-need-of-tlc.55416/#post-656072

That's the boy.
Stupid title ... who's daft idea was it to call it that. No wonder i couldn't find it.

 

[Bill Edwards]

See i cut all my alu dry. Different ways I suppose but I find alu sticks in the teeth more so with it than without.
@Bill Edwards i have no idea mate. I've even forgot what the thread title was mate.

How about fixing a brush (try it with something like a toothbrush?) that cleans the blade before going through the metal?

Then allow me, http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/freebee-in-need-of-tlc.55416/#post-656072

Well done sir

 

[Richard.]

How about fixing a brush (try it with something like a toothbrush?) that cleans the blade before going through the metal?




Well done sir

Thing is doing so would be fixing a problem that isn't there. I fitted the coolant system with its own switch so I just turn it off for cutting aluminium. It doesn't clog if it's run dry and alu is soft enough not to worry about causing wear to the bi metal blade.

 

[Bill Edwards]

Thing is doing so would be fixing a problem that isn't there. I fitted the coolant system with its own switch so I just turn it off for cutting aluminium. It doesn't clog if it's run dry and alu is soft enough not to worry about causing wear to the bi metal blade.

Fair enough, I thought ali was not very good to cut dry but it's not something I have any experience of working with.

 

[Richard.]

Fair enough, I thought ali was not very good to cut dry but it's not something I have any experience of working with.

Dunno. It might not be the "done" thing but it's not causing me any problems. I don't cut any hefty gage stuff mind. I'd imagine thicker stuff could get hot without coolant and possibly transfer heat into blade?? The thinner gage tube, box and flat i cut doesn't get chance to get warm before the blade is through it.
I guess it's more down to knowing your stuff and what works with what you have.

 

[Hood]

Dunno. It might not be the "done" thing but it's not causing me any problems. I don't cut any hefty gage stuff mind. I'd imagine thicker stuff could get hot without coolant and possibly transfer heat into blade?? The thinner gage tube, box and flat i cut doesn't get chance to get warm before the blade is through it.
I guess it's more down to knowing your stuff and what works with what you have.

The done thing is what works for you, plain and simple.
For me I cut a lot of 6082 angle, tube and box with wall thickness of 1/4" and upwards and after maybe 40 or 50 cuts the teeth start to get a build up on them if I have not had the coolant running. Doesn't have to be much coolant to stop it happening, just a dribble on the blade is enough.
I have been working away the last few months fitting out some Cheetah Catamarans and using the saw there (my old Q&S ) and the coolant tank was dry and I kept forgetting to grab some on the way past my workshop in the morning, a quick spray every 5 or 10 cuts with maintenance oil was all that was needed to keep the blade free.

I also use an Evolution circular saw on Alu and 5083 cuts no problem at all, the 6082 however clogs up the teeth in short order especially as the blade is getting dull but a quick spray of oil again helps greatly.

 

[Bill Edwards]

Dunno. It might not be the "done" thing but it's not causing me any problems. I don't cut any hefty gage stuff mind. I'd imagine thicker stuff could get hot without coolant and possibly transfer heat into blade?? The thinner gage tube, box and flat i cut doesn't get chance to get warm before the blade is through it.
I guess it's more down to knowing your stuff and what works with what you have.

That's probably very true, circumstances can differ greatly. As I say, I have no real experience of ali - can't even weld it - so haven't built up an experience of doing anything differently to the better known methods.

 

[Richard.]

can't even weld it

Come round for a brew and I reckon we'd change that in half hour.

 

[Bill Edwards]

Come round for a brew and I reckon we'd change that in half hour.

That'd be great, but distance aside I'd want an AC TIG even more yet with no more justification than I have now...

 

[ned]

hey all ) so ive put the adjuster on LL and now its ripping through plate much faster. Appreciate all the info on this thread, very glad I started it.

There is one more thing about this saw, its seriously loud. Is there anything I can do about this? Id love to wrap the motor in a blanket but of course I cant do that. Anyone have other suggestions? I realise this probably is impossible, but, ive been surprised before, and you just never know.

 

[gav0994]

hey all ) so ive put the adjuster on LL and now its ripping through plate much faster. Appreciate all the info on this thread, very glad I started it.

There is one more thing about this saw, its seriously loud. Is there anything I can do about this? Id love to wrap the motor in a blanket but of course I cant do that. Anyone have other suggestions? I realise this probably is impossible, but, ive been surprised before, and you just never know.

I just use ear defenders when using mine. It's the only annoying thing about it.

 

[Wallace]

hey all ) so ive put the adjuster on LL and now its ripping through plate much faster. Appreciate all the info on this thread, very glad I started it.

There is one more thing about this saw, its seriously loud. Is there anything I can do about this? Id love to wrap the motor in a blanket but of course I cant do that. Anyone have other suggestions? I realise this probably is impossible, but, ive been surprised before, and you just never know.

Is the machine noisy when cutting or just when running? If noisy when cutting it might be an issue with clamping. Check the guards and panels etc for vibration under load, my 6x4 saw rattles the belt cover loose on occasions and makes a horrendous noise.