How sharp will chop saw metal fragments be?

[Erie Fred]

Tack weld? Bundling is what gaffer tape is for.

...and when they shift, there goes the blade. POOF !
Allot of places I've been to keep a simple buzz box welder next to the bandsaw.

 

[Mark 2]

What is sharpness measured in?
Ouches!

 

[hotponyshoes]

If all you are cutting is 12mm mild steel what about a bar cropper?
You can make them yourself fairly easily.
New (quality) ones are expensive but they don't make much second hand.

A rebar cropper would probably do the job, new hydraulic ones are cheap enough but a bit slow to use.

Not the cleanest of cut from either but zero heat, zero mess and virtually no noise either.

 

[bod1]

Thanks for all the great replies- I won't be getting a chop saw then!
I don't have space (I've been told!) for a 6x4 bandsaw so I've just ordered a Scheppach MBS1200 Portable Metal Cutting Bandsaw on a low table which apparently fixes the issue with the vice compared to the MBS1100.
Hopefully this is up to the job and spare parts should be obtainable if I need them..... It should also do angle iron which is a plus.
Thanks again

 

[fractured]

I hope it serves you well pal. It will certainly be a more pleasant experience than using an abrasive chop saw.

Just a point to note incase people are reading this thread in future is the cutting capacity of the tool you buy. This is important for when cutting hollow sections and angle etc. These capacities are usually stated in the specification, but not always.

Also remember that with an abrasive chop saw the abrasive disc gets smaller with use, thus reducing the cutting capacity - if you are cutting materials on the limit of the machines capacity then you may not get many cuts before having to change the disc (or rotate the work piece).

 

[GRW]

Thanks for all the great replies- I won't be getting a chop saw then!
I don't have space (I've been told!) for a 6x4 bandsaw so I've just ordered a Scheppach MBS1200 Portable Metal Cutting Bandsaw on a low table which apparently fixes the issue with the vice compared to the MBS1100.
Hopefully this is up to the job and spare parts should be obtainable if I need them..... It should also do angle iron which is a plus.
Thanks again

When you get it, as soon as you open the box - check the Saw lifting arm area carefully around the bottom pivot where it is secured to the base. All the weight of the saw goes through this point.

I bought one but maybe it had been dropped in transit or similar. It initially looked fine, but it seemed to have a bit of side play. Looking really closely with good light on the area revealed a hairline crack in my brand-new saw, so I had to return it.

I never got to try my MBS1200 out, but others on here seem to be happy with theirs.

 

[Bobupndown]

The rust is an issue for sure. If weld a car outside and grind at it I make sure to cover the tarmac with cardboard etc and clean up well after.

Otherwise there will be a rust sh#t stain for years after and powerhosing does not remove it. There is likely special stuff for it which I must look into as there is one bad rust patch in my back yard.

Get a Landrover. My Disco leaked enough to ensure my driveway never rusted.

 

[fractured]

I have been using the Makita today and I made a rough estimation of cutting times. Time is from the blade starting to cut the steel to the off-cut falling off the end. Times are very appropriate!

80x40x5 hollow section - nominal 11 seconds

25mm dia bright drawn bar - about 5 seconds.

The cut is clean and very little burr on the steel.

This has not been cleaned in any way.