JOEPRO
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It's on tarmac no so easy to treat as the tarmac could get ate away.whats the stain on concreteas above if it is try brick acid might eat the surface if your not carefull though
It's on tarmac no so easy to treat as the tarmac could get ate away.whats the stain on concreteas above if it is try brick acid might eat the surface if your not carefull though
Way faster than cleaning up after an abrasive one!Cold saw, very good, but slow
This is also very trueWay faster than cleaning up after an abrasive one!
I just looked that Makita up. Looks a nice bit of kit, & a proper slow-running cold cut type saw with a carbide blade.I was really lucky with my TCT saw. Its a Makita LC1230
...the high-speed mass of hot sparks shooting out the back of the cutter made an indelible burn on brickwork.
Tbh, I underestimated just how much sparks & how hot, & just how much damage they can do, even to solid structures. No wonder people inadvertently set fire to stuff with grinders & rage saws etc.On site, I have seen a four-faced (left, right, top, back) cube made of plasterboard used as a containment device.
It was similar to but larger than the windbreak shields you see for camping stoves.
It would be possible to make something similar with hinged sides and top so it folds flat when not in use.

That 6x4 is missing it's tool tray (& strengthener for the pressed-steel legs). Funnily enough, the Sealey 6x4 I bought was missing the tray as well. I made one for mine as the pressed-steel legs are quite flexible without it.I've a cheap Scheppach from Aldi. A bit like this:
Pardon our interruption...
www.ebay.co.uk
Or go secondhand on something like this. Local to me tbh. Very tempted if I had dry workshop space.
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I made a new stand from box section which included a tray for mine. Massive improvement.That 6x4 is missing it's tool tray (& strengthener for the pressed-steel legs). Funnily enough, the Sealey 6x4 I bought was missing the tray as well. I made one for mine as the pressed-steel legs are quite flexible without it.
(At some point I need to make a platform with 4 locking castors for it I think. It'll make it more rigid, easier to move & "park", plus I think the working height will be better...& I'll have one more tray to store cr@p on)
View attachment 408094
The "4x6" bandsaws as they are known around these parts, are everywhere, I have 2 of them.If cutting with a chop saw on a driveway... I hope you don't live with immediate neighbours if you're cutting 12mm bar regularly!
Also, I made the mistake of using an abrasive 9" angry grinder in a pivot stand to cut Angle & Box in my rear yard.... apart from the terrible racket & dust, the high-speed mass of hot sparks shooting out the back of the cutter made an indelible burn on brickwork, and also left a permanent rash on some window glass from a couple of meters away - so watch your & neighbours cars & property!
I bought an old 6x4 Sealey generic bandsaw for such jobs. MUCH quieter, no sparks, no heat, no abrasive dust. Slower cut (but neater & not hot) but as it clamps, cuts & switches itself off, you can use the cutting time to do something else while it works.
Put on a set of large locking castors, a bandsaw would probably take less time to move & set up than a chop saw on a Stand as well.
Yep, locking
. Also mine is a bandsaw not a Donkey Power Hacksaw..... so it shouldn't try to row itself across the floor.you could tack weld the ends together to make a bundle

Mines also missing the Stock Stop. I'll find some suitable diameter steel rod & knock one up at some pointThe "4x6" bandsaws as they are known around these parts, are everywhere, I have 2 of them.
Wth the 12mm barstock you could tack weld the ends together to make a bundle (probably 4), and then let it munch away un-aided on that.
With a stock stop, and a bucket for the pieces to fall into, you'd be amazed how many pieces in an hour
these will put out.



