BrokenBiker
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My father has been spraying for the best part of 40 years...he just said the best way to achieve that finish is to find someone that cant paint and let them at it
- Thread starter Jelly_Sheffield
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pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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Schutz halfway up the door is not original paintwork on any motor I've seen.
steveo3002
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is on a mx5
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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It looks more like avocado skin to me.
https://i0.wp.com/onehundreddollars...013/08/avocado-peels.jpg?resize=550,354&ssl=1
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
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As @steveo3002 says...
The various MX5 communities are all dead certain it's original for the Mk1, 2, & 2.5's and it's been on every one I have seen.
It varies over time too, on some MK1' it was only over-painted from the bottom of the door up leaving the cill black, by the MK2 and 2.5 it is always over-painted all the way to the cill bottom.
Whilst this as may be, and you're all "great" comedians... I have still been tasked with replicating it faithfully, to preserve the car as we got it.
Thanks to @hotponyshoes, @steveo3002 & @RaceDiagnostics for advice on how to actually achieve that sort of texture with the equipment required.
steveo3002
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you will struggle to do a spot repair and have look great , i would roar it off to the nearest join , or the whole sill and redo it all so it matches , depends how fussy you are
It's an MX5, that finish is Mazdas way of doubling up the thickness of the tinfoil it's made from and is providing most of the structural strength.
PhillipM
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it's literally stonechip on the lower half of the door, not a poor finish as such.
I never had much issue replicating it for spot repairs even with just stonechip from an aerosol tbh.
Misterg
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Some Mazda MX-5 brochure pictures. You can see the top of the textured coating in all of them (there is no seam line or swage on any of the panels at that point). It's a [very] hard coating with a fairly subtle texture, not like the ruberised stone chip that's under the arches.
The trouble is that, by now, any MK1/MK2 MX-5 is a bit like an archeological dig...
steveo3002
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shame they made such an effort to prevent stonechips but then nothing inside to save them
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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There are no ripples and bumps on the advert pictures just a line and none of the avocado finish.
Misterg
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The line is the top of the stonechip / 'avocado' skin texture (there is no 'line' as such) - just showing that yes, it did come half way up the doors.
I believe that this photo shows the original paint. You can see the texture where the light catches it (door is the panel to the left of the masking tape). It's quite a subtle texture; not like full-on stonechip.
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
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I am not fussy at all, drove the Hilux round with fluro pink duct tape covering rust holes in the rear quarter panel for a year (that is apparently an MOT pass as the sharp edges are covered and it's not within 30CM of a prescribed area)
But it's not my vehicle, and we (collectively) are being rivet-counter fussy about the car.
So my plan is to strip back all the stone-chip on the quarter panel and blend it in at the cill just where the curve of the door edge ends.
If I find any evidence of failing paint on the cill further forward, will do the whole thing.
This one is basically as factory, no welding until the tiny underbody patch I did earlier this week first.
Should I be documenting what I find doing this repair for the use of future rivet-counters as I sand back each layer?
The condition was basically the entire reason my partner bought that specific car of the 14 or so we looked at, she's the second owner and has done at least ⅔ of the mileage it's seen.
I think the fundamental issue was the way they designed the pressings, no amount of internal treatment would be enough with the way that the cill and frame rails trap water...
Given the inordinate amount of engineering R&D Mazda put into the MK1, and the prestige they still accord the MX5 line in the company, I assume that's a compromise they accepted in the pursuit of lightness and stiffness.
The MK2 being worse than the MK1 because of the double layer frame railsthey added to give extra stiffness certainly supports that hypothesis.
If you see it from 6ft away and/or with the lighting perpendicular it looks nearly flat.
If you see it from closer up, especially with oblique lighting there's an obvious texture that's less bumpy than hammerite or rattle can stone chip but not nothing.
It's very specific, which is why I'm researching how to recreate that exact effect.
ajlelectronics
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I would be experimenting with an orange peel finish, low gun pressure and unthinned paint, but watch out for plastering on too much and getting runs. Jotun also looks like that after spraying.
RaceDiagnostics
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I did this repair with gravitex as I had some on hand. Not perfect but good enough for my Mrs.
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
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That's certainly an option, I suspect it will take quite a few tests to get it "just so"
Yeah, I can see a subtle texture difference... Again experimentation is going to be key here.
marlinspike
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So the original stippled effect is definitely a coating not a paint technique?
PhillipM
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it's stone chip, then overcoated with the topcoat that's on the entire vehicle.
Misterg
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It was "Special PVC paint" that was over-painted with top coat according to a 1990 MX-5 body shop manual referenced here:
MX-5 Miata Forum - View Single Post - Question for those who have painted Miata.
This is a discussion forum for Mazda MX-5 Miata owners and enthusiasts. For more info, see http://www.miata.net/
forum.miata.net
There is reference to PVC chip guard in the attached Toyota collision repair advice from 2004 that lists a range of contemporary products (probably discontinued by now).
Jelly_Sheffield
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.
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Ok that opened up some interesting avenues of research.It was "Special PVC paint" that was over-painted with top coat according to a 1990 MX-5 body shop manual referenced here:
MX-5 Miata Forum - View Single Post - Question for those who have painted Miata.
This is a discussion forum for Mazda MX-5 Miata owners and enthusiasts. For more info, see http://www.miata.net/
There is reference to PVC chip guard in the attached Toyota collision repair advice from 2004 that lists a range of contemporary products (probably discontinued by now).
One of the Miata forums in the states identified PPG DX54 as being the OEM coating, it may still be available, it seems to be in the US, but I will have to contact a PPG distributor if I want it in the UK.
Of the other recommendations Sikkens OTO Bodycoat is also still available, and Spies-Hecker still sells Permahyd Stone Chip Protector, but it's now 7103, not 7100 that I would be able to source.
I guess if I can't get acceptable results with a trial run using Gravitex, I can try to track down the OEM finish.
From a formulation perspective those are very interesting paints, that got my inner chemist curious...
They're using water based emulsions, with PVC copolymer and Titanium dioxide as fillers, and an acrylic resin as the binder solubilised by butoxyethanol...
Getting a stable emulsification of three very different products in water, which will dry quickly and uniformly, was probably very tricky at first, and likely involved some interesting particle technology and physical processing techniques.
