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Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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No, not by hand. The table & knee would have lifted off the top of the column which I probably couldn't do. Then the column will unbolt from the base but if you pull out the overarm you can see it's around 2" thick at the top.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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I don't have an engine crane and I can't afford one but I'm confidant I could do what Shedfull said with blocks of MDF without it falling over
your getting it off a pallet in final area yes? if not, leave it on the pallet till its there unless you cant get it through a doorway or something, its easier to handle. You can pinch bar a pallet round all day if you dont have a truck unless the surface is soft and it digs in, in which case you want to have it on some boards to stop this which help it skid.
And ask around, someone must be near you with a pump truck and whatever else you need or buy one, theyre cheap if you dont want a new shiny one. I got given the last one I use, its horrible looking, its got no paint on it and you have to release it with a screwdriver wedged in the mechanism because the little chain that connects the handle snapped eons ago, but its solid (Ive had 3t on it) and robust. Ive been asked more than one if someone can have my useless old scrap truck and the answers no. Its essential part of owning a workshop just as much as having a lathe or mill. It doesnt matter if you have to keep it outside under a tarp and clean the snails off before using as long as you have it to hand. Its just workshop infrastructure...
I got 2T of machine off a pallet a couple of months back by sliding it across onto two stout pieces of wood then I used my pump (pallet) truck to lift it slightly while swapping the pieces of wood for thinner ones on alternate sides. Once it got below the height the truck could be under it still and it was a bit closer the ground and therefore less likely to topple and kill me, I swapped the remaining stack for a couple of pieces stacked up so i could take them out as shims, then used a pinch bar to shift the weight away from that side and fished out a thinner piece of wood.
I wouldnt use mdf or paving slab for this however, if it crumbles your going to be loosing control of the descent which is bad. Solid lumps of actual wood. Oak is the best if you can lay your hands on some. Always handy to have some real blocking about. Old house beams cut up, fished out of some skip one day, I have on one occasion bought a used scaff board from a merchants and sawn it up to make packing for a job.
Or you could just hire a engine crane for the day with some proper rated nylon slings, get it lifted off, plop it on the floor and take the crane back to the hire shop job done. Yes I hate hiring stuff, but sometimes you cant own everything you need straight away, and at least it should just work and you wont be having to fix the crane first because you inherited someones cast offs (Ill post a pic of my engine crane one day... frankenstein looks designed in comparison...)
Be creative, just be clever with it. And if it starts falling forget trying to save it, just get out the way. Finding another machine is easier than growing replacement parts.
And ask around, someone must be near you with a pump truck and whatever else you need or buy one, theyre cheap if you dont want a new shiny one. I got given the last one I use, its horrible looking, its got no paint on it and you have to release it with a screwdriver wedged in the mechanism because the little chain that connects the handle snapped eons ago, but its solid (Ive had 3t on it) and robust. Ive been asked more than one if someone can have my useless old scrap truck and the answers no. Its essential part of owning a workshop just as much as having a lathe or mill. It doesnt matter if you have to keep it outside under a tarp and clean the snails off before using as long as you have it to hand. Its just workshop infrastructure...
I got 2T of machine off a pallet a couple of months back by sliding it across onto two stout pieces of wood then I used my pump (pallet) truck to lift it slightly while swapping the pieces of wood for thinner ones on alternate sides. Once it got below the height the truck could be under it still and it was a bit closer the ground and therefore less likely to topple and kill me, I swapped the remaining stack for a couple of pieces stacked up so i could take them out as shims, then used a pinch bar to shift the weight away from that side and fished out a thinner piece of wood.
I wouldnt use mdf or paving slab for this however, if it crumbles your going to be loosing control of the descent which is bad. Solid lumps of actual wood. Oak is the best if you can lay your hands on some. Always handy to have some real blocking about. Old house beams cut up, fished out of some skip one day, I have on one occasion bought a used scaff board from a merchants and sawn it up to make packing for a job.
Or you could just hire a engine crane for the day with some proper rated nylon slings, get it lifted off, plop it on the floor and take the crane back to the hire shop job done. Yes I hate hiring stuff, but sometimes you cant own everything you need straight away, and at least it should just work and you wont be having to fix the crane first because you inherited someones cast offs (Ill post a pic of my engine crane one day... frankenstein looks designed in comparison...)
Be creative, just be clever with it. And if it starts falling forget trying to save it, just get out the way. Finding another machine is easier than growing replacement parts.
Wendelspanswick
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^^^^Is the same method I use, when I moved workshop I invested in a pallet truck and it was well worth the £40 it cost me.
You will be surprised how easy it is in reality.Now that I like. We've got loads of paving slabs destined for the tip, I could stack them up and shimmy it onto them, then pull the pallet out and replace it with a lower stack of slabs, then take one off the first pile again. Easier said than done.
DanielW
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The answer to all your problems..............
Leave it on the pallet and work it towards the wall the area it in now and rearrange your shed/garage.
Or still leave it where it is and rearrange the crap thats in the way like your ladders and punchy.
![DSC_0026[1].jpg](https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/attachments/dsc_0026-1-jpg.60582/ "DSC_0026[1].jpg")
Leave it on the pallet and work it towards the wall the area it in now and rearrange your shed/garage.
Or still leave it where it is and rearrange the crap thats in the way like your ladders and punchy.
DanielW
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My idea above makes sense because if you where to sell it sometime in the future you would have the hassle of getting it on a pallet then and thats gonna cost you again.
turn it round on the pallet and use it in the center of the floor.
turn it round on the pallet and use it in the center of the floor.
That was if the pallet wasnt in the right location, I did say if it was in the final room you can pinch bar it round on the pallet still. I really wouldnt leave a machine on a pallet as a long term plan myself, theyre not as stable, sooner or later if its big enough the pallet might give way, you cant level the machine off properly on one (yes for a mill I rough level so at least the suds goes down the table drains properly), they get in the way, get swarf stuck in the dead space etc.Why do people think he needs a pallet truck? its getting it off the pallet thats the problem....well he thinks it a problem.
And yes, if you sell it it might have to go back on a pallet if the buyer isnt like me and is going to turn up with their own van or transport in which case egyptian style rollering it out would be preferable, but you can use the same technique in reverse except youll have to strap and bolt it the pallet for transport if it has to go to be destroyed by general freight hauliers.
This isnt in the class where moving it is a nightmare involving hgv and large hiabs and stuff, but it is good experience for if/when your tastes get bigger. When young mr maker has to depart to his own workshop in a few years (Im assuming this your parents place right now maker) then he will have had plenty of practice getting in good habits to shift it all easily. If I ever have to move again, Im going to buy my own container and load at my leisure...
brewdexta
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Rather than use a pallet, I made a quick frame out of 50mm box so I can get a pallet truck underneath it and move it around. I did this for my rapidor, that way you can leave it on permanently without tripping over the pallet and its more stable than a pallet plus some machines are a bit on the low side. Works well in small workshops. Before I moved into the barn I had a tiny workshop where I had to move the bandsaw to line up with a different window to feed material in and out 
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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The punch bag is not there any more, I don't know why I ever wanted it TBHThe answer to all your problems..............
Leave it on the pallet and work it towards the wall the area it in now and rearrange your shed/garage.
Or still leave it where it is and rearrange the crap thats in the way like your ladders and punchy.
View attachment 60582
. The ladder will hopefully be going back to my nan's soon. There's no way I could leave it on the pallet, it's a trip hazard, it rocks about and it makes the whole thing 6" higher & I'm well overdue a growth spurt.I like that idea, I might have do do that some time in the future.Rather than use a pallet, I made a quick frame out of 50mm box so I can get a pallet truck underneath it and move it around. I did this for my rapidor, that way you can leave it on permanently without tripping over the pallet and its more stable than a pallet plus some machines are a bit on the low side. Works well in small workshops. Before I moved into the barn I had a tiny workshop where I had to move the bandsaw to line up with a different window to feed material in and out
What do you mean when you say pinch bar?
Wendelspanswick
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A long crow bar, normally around a 1500mm length of 32mm tool steel with a point forged on one end and a chisel on the other.The punch bag is not there any more, I don't know why I ever wanted it TBH
I like that idea, I might have do do that some time in the future.
What do you mean when you say pinch bar?
Ideal for levering around heavy objects or smashing masonary etc.
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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I've got a various crowbars & pry bars and a 3' cold chisel, almost 2"ø, nothing quite like that though
.
MattH
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I might get flamed for this and I probably wouldn't do it to my machines as I don't think I'd be happy with the stress I'd be putting on it, but...
How about making a couple of temp trestles from box section. Place these either side under the ends of the table.
Then use the knee Z axis to lower the table onto the trestles I.e. Raising the whole machine. You can then remove the pallet and then lower the mill to the floor.
All in a controlled manor.
How about making a couple of temp trestles from box section. Place these either side under the ends of the table.
Then use the knee Z axis to lower the table onto the trestles I.e. Raising the whole machine. You can then remove the pallet and then lower the mill to the floor.
All in a controlled manor.
DanielW
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Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
- Messages
- 10,625
- Location
- Keeler crater
It's a nice idea but it would put shear stress on parts designed for a compressive load and vice versa.
Its a common tool around roadworks and other places that need big proddy pieces of bar. Some people call them wrecking bars, because erm, they good for wrecking things. I burrowed through the 80cm thick stone walls making window and door openings with one on this house.I've got a various crowbars & pry bars and a 3' cold chisel, almost 2"ø, nothing quite like that though
But in our current use case, the flat chisel end is ideal for getting under the edge of a machine and just nudging it along by hand or lifting it a bit, and the length gives you the mechanical advantage to do it by hand.
eg (no connection to seller) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/60-Heavy-...isel-Pointed-Pry-Crowbar-Builder/311017034917
