Morris
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This as well.
- Thread starter fizzy
- Start date
oldbikedavey
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Could use sprung rollers or something like that, maybe ball transfer units ?
Using a shaper gauge to set things up would be a step towards better parallelism, I think.
Agroshield
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Traditionally in woodworking, that is called a featherboard. Its primary purpose is to push the reference edge of the material into intimate contact with the reference edge of the machine (the fence). In other words, it is there to strengthen/increase/assure the 'use one and only one reference' principle.
If it is sprung-loaded, there is no requirement for it to be parallel to anything. If you look at a featherboard, its fingers are angled, both to provide the 'spring' and also give some useful protection against kickback. There is some logic to say that more pressure can be applied further from the blade (high pressure near the blade can cause the kerf in the stock on the exit side of the blade to close up), hence parallelism might in reality be a disbenefit.
I thought so as well but the proof of the pudding is in the eating as they say.
It was quite a long cut. I tried the plate both ends to make sure it was moving ok.
An accuracy of about a thou along the whole length can't be bad!
Well I thought my 24" Startrite was huge - until I acquired this oneThats my take on it BS, the bigger they are the more pressure needed. Like any big drill, go to lightly and you will rub off the cutting edge. @fizzy I now have BIC ( bandsaw inferiority complex)
Bob
Not used it on metal yet - has a very coarse ripper blade for wood. Variable speed on the fly like a Bridgeport and a table rack feed. 36" throat!
brightspark
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paste is a lot better than fluid on hole saws i generaly give all my hacksaw blades and hss drills a dab of it . cuts faster reduces friction and your gear lasts a lot longer
Scruffywelder
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I've taken an el cheapo 6" holesaw through 1" steel plate (of unknown provenance) before now.
Dads old (wartime) J&S pillar drill has a bottom speed of about 36rpm with the backgear in due to being converted to a reduction-geared motor. Half a dozen 1/2" holes round the periphery to let the swarf drop through and turning the workpiece over about halfway and cutting from the other side helped.
Smaller ones I've rigged a low-ish pressure blowgun up from the compressor to clear the cut out and just pecked it steadily.
Bit slow but it can be done...
Dads old (wartime) J&S pillar drill has a bottom speed of about 36rpm with the backgear in due to being converted to a reduction-geared motor. Half a dozen 1/2" holes round the periphery to let the swarf drop through and turning the workpiece over about halfway and cutting from the other side helped.
Smaller ones I've rigged a low-ish pressure blowgun up from the compressor to clear the cut out and just pecked it steadily.
Bit slow but it can be done...
I've put a 5" hole saw through 10mm 304 stainless in a pit in a Fort Worth, Texas in 2002/3, using a Dewalt cordless drill - the switch was knackered after doing that. Slow, clearing the cut, and lots of Rocol cutting lubricant - I still have the hole saw, it still cuts.
Lubricant, not coolant, slow (not 200rpm) and accepting you need to clear the cut, and they work fine, and last. It's a hole saw, not a machining cutter like a rotabroach.
A new switch in the drill (from Granger in Northridge, LA - where the next job was) and the drill was fine in case you were wondering - the continuous on and off for the time required didn't do the contacts any good.
Lubricant, not coolant, slow (not 200rpm) and accepting you need to clear the cut, and they work fine, and last. It's a hole saw, not a machining cutter like a rotabroach.
A new switch in the drill (from Granger in Northridge, LA - where the next job was) and the drill was fine in case you were wondering - the continuous on and off for the time required didn't do the contacts any good.
Low gear on a battery drill is higher than 200rpm I suspect.
I used 10% coolant mix instead of the usual 5%. Always worked fine before.
Maybe this plate is hardox or something else exotic.
I have a plasma cutter. I have built a cnc one just not had time to finish it. If I had known how long these holes would take I would have put the effort into the plasma instead
Morrisman
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I do it like that, but have my shop vac held to the side, so it sucks up the swarf of the cutter every time you back out of the groove.
I use spray on cutting lube directly into the groove. Not quick, but it gets the job done.
And hole saws never cut to size, until the time you actually want one to…
You can indeed. Bit they aren't cheap and wanted to finish this weekend and nothing available in time. Broach cutters are vastly superior.
sako243
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Oh I'm going to be in for some fun then. Got two 50mm holes to drill through 10mm plate welded to 3mm thick 40mm depth box... Hopefully close but far enough to miss the 20mm bracket on the back
Doesn't need to be precise as just to weld in a bush so if my plasma was behaving I might have used that
Doesn't need to be precise as just to weld in a bush so if my plasma was behaving I might have used that
My plasma is fine but not got the cnc running properly yet. You are welcome to.pop over and use it free hand. I also have a hole compass for it but 50mm might be too small.Oh I'm going to be in for some fun then. Got two 50mm holes to drill through 10mm plate welded to 3mm thick 40mm depth box... Hopefully close but far enough to miss the 20mm bracket on the back
Doesn't need to be precise as just to weld in a bush so if my plasma was behaving I might have used that
Hope to have cnc running in a week or 2.
Erie Fred
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I meant the straight line sawing job.I have a plasma cutter. I have built a cnc one just not had time to finish it. If I had known how long these holes would take I would have put the effort into the plasma instead
Ahh.
I am useless at anything freehand. Even using a straight edge my plasma cutting is a mess. My bandsaw gives an awesome finish and amazing accuracy. Love a chance to use it properly instead of just cutting firewood!
sako243
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Suitably bodged
. Well there's no point doing a decent job on what was a bodge job to begin with.Tried the hole saw but because I wanted to keep it close to the 20mm bracket so I could use it as a gusset the cheapo teeth bent over on the fillet weld so it's now useless (well a whole set from about 1/2" to 5" was £20 bought to do one hole in a floorboard so it's on its bonus life now).
Surprisingly my plasma decided it was going to play ball today so I managed to cut / gouge out most of the hole (couldn't get into the corners easily) and then the wee M12 die grinder came into its own - that thing is a beast considering it's size. Anyway some filling of holes with weld and we have one of the bale spikes mounted.
The forks are all twisted and bent from abuse (I'm surprised they have lasted 4 years with the abuse I've given them). You saw the silly 10ft extensions I have for them. For the cost of two bushes when I eventually kill these I'll get some proper ones made up but I suspect I'll just keep using, abusing and repairing these lashed up at 3am in 1.5h with a misbehaving welder, plasma cutter and little sleep.
That's what did for the switch . . . On off on off on off . . . You get the idea. Speed never got high, and not for long each burst.
My wrists were aching afterwards though.
