Hob feed

[sparkysy]

Ooh fun! They are some busy joint boxes, I bet the one in the second pic is a right squeeze inside!!
Ok so top pic, top left all reds = permanent live
Top right terminal all blacks = neutral
Bottom right with the two reds and one black = switch live.
So the black (should have red sleeve or tape on) with the two reds is the live coming back from the switch it's red core will be live to the switch so label that one as switch outside the joint box!

Also just noticed are there two earth's cut off in the cables on the bottom right!!

 

[brightspark]

the black switched should by rights have a bit of red sleeving over it to identify but whoever did it was sloppy and never used earth sleeving niether we used to say it was done by a councill electrician along with wiring 2 way lights using a borrowed neutral

 

[Dave-sparks]

There's a 6mm cable to the old cooker. Under the hob i'm going to have a 3KW single oven. Can the 6mm feed both?

Or do i need to run another?

Yes both appliances can be connected to the one 32A circuit, dual outlet cooker connection plates are available for exactly this purpose.

 

[Welderpaul]

Ooh fun! They are some busy joint boxes, I bet the one in the second pic is a right squeeze inside!!
Ok so top pic, top left all reds = permanent live
Top right terminal all blacks = neutral
Bottom right with the two reds and one black = switch live.
So the black (should have red sleeve or tape on) with the two reds is the live coming back from the switch it's red core will be live to the switch so label that one as switch outside the joint box!

Also just noticed are there two earth's cut off in the cables on the bottom right!!

Strange when there is a spare terminal in the junction box the (unsleeved) earths are twisted together outside the junction box. I've seen that a few time on different properties.

I've rewired most of the house as the EICR threw up high resistance faults that just can't be found.

I need to take a feed off here to do the new hall lights so i'll treat it to a couple of those big Wago junction boxes.

Here's another couple of 'issues' i've sorted. The middle pic is actually lead sheathed, 'connected' to PVC

 

[Dave-sparks]

Not off of a 2.5mm supply cable its not...

OK, it's only 1.4m but that still seems very small?

5.8kW is just under 25A (assuming 230V rating), 2.5mm H05V2V2 is rated for 25A so no problem with the maximum current.

As per wiring regulations fixed loads not subject to overload faults do not require overload protection, they only require fault protection. Cooking appliances are not subject to overload faults and the 2.5mm will be adequately protected against fault by a 32A MCB so there's no issue.

 

[mtt.tr]

Ooh fun! They are some busy joint boxes, I bet the one in the second pic is a right squeeze inside!!
Ok so top pic, top left all reds = permanent live
Top right terminal all blacks = neutral
Bottom right with the two reds and one black = switch live.
So the black is the live coming back from the switch it's red core will be live to the switch so label that one as switch outside the joint box!

That's why they sell end cutters, make the slots as big as you like.

If they didn't want you to they wouldn't makes them so brittle

 

[500e]

@Welderpaul
Hope you took the lead out completely, ( even when I was an apprentice 60+ years ago) most was shot, neutrals to earth, you could take the neutral fuses out and no difference.
Love the period chock block on black wire.
My old boss would have gone if he found we had left all the cut off crap under floors.
Mice?? or the start of another JB connection (joke)

 

[JimmyS]

Whoever wired the lights in here didn't bother with the expense of junction boxes etc. They just nailed bits of plasterboard over joints and ran a 10mm radial from a 40a fuse..

 

[sparkysy]

I have so many pictures similar to above, always amazed at the lengths people will go to when it would of been easier to do it properly in the first place!
Had a call out last week this was the issue,
hidden in a kitchen unit. Customer heard a loud bang and all power went off!

Insure line splices had been used, copper to aluminium but not touching.
Kitchen was badly altered 6 years ago.
Takes the Part P

 

[ajlelectronics]

I have posted this before. This was the "CU" for the house I bought in Brittany...

 

[addjunkie]

This was mine when I bought it……..lighting was similar to above!

 

[dobbslc]

I wonder what they thought the RCD was doing?

 

[dobbslc]

@Welderpaul
I've just thought that those double pole switches you linked to are only 20A.
I can't work out from what I've read if you're planning on wiring them to a circuit with a higher load and on a 32A MCB or not.
If it's a 20A mcb ignore me


Note: I fitted a 13A MK switch fused spur for an immersion heater and it got very hot indeed!
The terminal screws are also made of cheese, I won't buy MK anymore as it's definitely not what it used to be.

 

[brightspark]

the hob is 0n 32 amp the ovens only 13 ,one 6.0mm cable will do both. hob on the main cooker control switch wired in and oven plugged in to the cooker control switch it doesnt need 2 supplies its pointless .cooker control units are 42 amp

 

[Welderpaul]

Thanks chaps. I'm going to leave the existing 6mm feed and use a dual outlet plate I think

 

[Welderpaul]

Lots of lead lovliness. It would have been a very tidy install back in the day, joists neatly notched, cables all run nice and tidy.
Earth continuity is inventive, or perhaps the way it was done
Bet the bloke who wired that is long dead and buried. Or maybe one of Brightpark's apprentice jobs

 

[brightspark]

Thanks chaps. I'm going to leave the existing 6mm feed and use a dual outlet plate I think

thought you said the oven was 13 amp. it will end up being on a 32 amp fuse

 

[Welderpaul]

thought you said the oven was 13 amp. it will end up being on a 32 amp fuse

hmmmm

 

[brightspark]

just wire the hob in to the cooker control with a socket on it and plug the oven in .place it in the cupboard adjacent to them for isolation

 

[Dave-sparks]

thought you said the oven was 13 amp. it will end up being on a 32 amp fuse

Whats wrong with that? Ovens fall into the category of loads not subject to overload and so overload protection is not required, only fault protection. Direct connection to a 32A supply via a dual cooker connection plate is fully complaint and safe.