Help Sourcing M14 x 300mm High Tensile Bolts for Ford Ranger Upper Control Arm Swap

[Smouser]

Bottom Line Up Front:
I need two M14 x 300mm high tensile bolts—preferably somewhere in the UK.

Background:
A few years ago, I installed a 2" spacer lift kit on my Ford Ranger. As many know, spacer kits increase the angle of the upper control arms, putting extra stress on the joints. While in Thailand, I picked up some aftermarket UCAs specifically designed for lifted suspensions, but never got around to installing them.

Fast forward to last week: my Ranger went in for its MOT and came back with advisories on both sides—worn upper suspension arm bushes. Perfect excuse to finally swap in those new UCAs.

The Problem:
I got everything prepped, jacked the truck up, removed the wheels, and started loosening the upper control arm bolts.

Only to find I couldn't actually remove them. The bolt hits the bodywork and can't be fully withdrawn.

After watching a few YouTube videos, I realised these bolts are typically installed from the opposite direction—away from the body. If the bolt is installed from the opposite side the bolt can be withdrawn as it slides behind the body. So how did mine end up the wrong way around?

Here’s my theory: When I bought the Ranger new, the chassis rusted quickly (especially at the welds). I complained, and Ford agreed to strip and recoat the chassis. During reassembly, I suspect they installed the suspension while the body was off, mistakenly inserting the bolts from the wrong side.

Now, my options are:

1. Lift the body (major job, not practical).
2. Cut into the body (definitely not doing that).
3. Cut the bolt in sections using a grinder, remove it piece by piece, and replace it.

Option 3 is the most viable. But after calling PartsPlus, I was quoted £110 + VAT per bolt - which seems absurd.
I am also annoyed with Ford for putting the bolts in the wrong way and I am not particularly keen to further support them by buying their expensive bolts. Their profit margin must be astronomical.

I did find some 12.9 grade bolts at A2Zfasteners and ordered them. However, after a week, there are no sign of the bolts, no communication from the company after numerous emails and looking at their Trustpilot reviews, it does not look likely that I will ever get the bolts

Luckily, I paid via Paypal so should get my money back.

So, the big question:
Where can I get two M14 x 300mm high tensile bolts in the UK at a reasonable price? Any suggestions for alternative suppliers or places to look?

 

[Agroshield]

Is there any reason you need a bolt?

A piece of suitable rod with an M14 thread at each end and two suitable nuts would seem to be OK.

There was a photo the other day of someone's driveway with a whole load of scrap iron on it. Maybe there would be some suitable stock material there. You would, of course, also need someone with at least one lathe.

Edit:

Cut the head off the bolt tight under the flange washer with a thin disk and withdraw it in the direction it will go. There might be enough free threads the other end poking out of the nut such that you can make something to replace the missing head.

 

[BrokenBiker]

i know orbital fastners do a range of high tensile threaded bar at what i thought were reasonable prices. as a last resort you could use that as a temp fix with nuts either end? not ideal with no shoulder, but would work for the mot at least

 

[Smouser]

Is there any reason you need a bolt?

A piece of suitable rod with an M14 thread at each end and two suitable nuts would seem to be OK.

There was a photo the other day of someone's driveway with a whole load of scrap iron on it. Maybe there would be some suitable stock material there. You would, of course, also need someone with at least one lathe.

Haha. Guilty as charged.

I might now have suitable material to make a bolt and also have a lathe.

This Ford Ranger saga actually happened two weeks ago before I had the material and I only got around to posting about the Ranger now.

I do have a bit of a concern using threaded rod or a bolt made on a lathe as the suspension is a safety critical part on a vehicle. I would prefer to have a high tensile bolt which in theory, should be at least as strong as the rating that is stamped on it.

For suspension parts, I think a 10.9 grade bolt is probably required.

 

[Dozzer]

You can get a second hand control arm with the bolt for £30https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1504697051...get=Car+Make:Ford|Model:Ranger|Cars+Year:2016

 

[hotponyshoes]

It wouldn't bother me to put a hole in the body that I could feed the bolt in to remove it.
Paint the edges and fit a grommet with a bit of sealer.

Or if that arm is being replaced, cut the bush out and that might give you enough angle on the bolt to extract it.

Or, if you can't find bolts (or make one from a bit of bar) a bit of 14mm od heavy wall tube then threaded bar/nuts run through that.

 

[dave h 2]

I'm with Dozzer,
Breakers?

 

[Agroshield]

I do have a bit of a concern using threaded rod or a bolt made on a lathe as the suspension is a safety critical part on a vehicle.

Threaded rod (allthread) would indeed be a poor choice. Where the original is plain and a reasonable fit on the sleeves inside the bushes, so needs to be the replacement. The item is in shear and bearing so a threaded rod would have less bearing capacity (localised crushing of the thread peaks) and a lot less shear capacity as it would be the minor diameter of the threads not the full 14mm.

If you use a nut each end, rather than turning down something to make a bolt (head), you have no stress concentration under the head (a forged head will always be better than a turned head). Then the only thing you need to be careful on is a radius groove at the thread run out at the minor diameter of the thread.

You need to measure the threaded and unthreaded part on the one you have and compare to the dimensions of a standard bolt (https://www.trfastenings.com/Produc...hexagon-screws-and-bolts/bolts/TR00002508-100). For a 300mm bolt, it only has 247mm of plain shank.

Ford may have made the threaded section shorter than usual to maximise the plain shank. It is the length of the plain shank on the replacement that is important.

It would also be worth looking for a capscrew as an alternative to a bolt.

 

[Nomad]

Dropping a subframe a few inches can be a fairly simple job, I've just done that on an older Renault (Espace - Love/Hate it!) as it's the only way to get clearance to remove the head without taking out the whole engine/box/subframe.
Plenty of railway sleepers to rest the subframe on and just lower it a couple of inches all without disconnecting anything major.
It looks like a couple of inches in your case would also solve your problem. Don't rule it out as an option.

Cutting the bolts already in there and refitting new or similar is still the easiest option.

 

[Smouser]

Thanks guys. All good points made with various different solutions.

I think the seconhand parts might be the easiest solution.

Looks like I can get two used upper control arms for £60 with the bolts included. Thanks @Dozzer

 

[ajlelectronics]

Thanks guys. All good points made with various different solutions.

I think the seconhand parts might be the easiest solution.

Looks like I can get two used upper control arms for £60 with the bolts included. Thanks @Dozzer

Then you will have a pair to sell on!

 

[dobbslc]

Make sure you tell them to send the bolts as well!
They might remove them before shipping.

 

[DaveB]

Look up th eford finis code number on somewhere like catcar.info then web search for it.

Might find a cheaper source for new bolts.

 

[indykid]

Threaded rod (allthread) would indeed be a poor choice. Where the original is plain and a reasonable fit on the sleeves inside the bushes, so needs to be the replacement. The item is in shear and bearing so a threaded rod would have less bearing capacity (localised crushing of the thread peaks) and a lot less shear capacity as it would be the minor diameter of the threads not the full 14mm.

If you use a nut each end, rather than turning down something to make a bolt (head), you have no stress concentration under the head (a forged head will always be better than a turned head). Then the only thing you need to be careful on is a radius groove at the thread run out at the minor diameter of the thread.

You need to measure the threaded and unthreaded part on the one you have and compare to the dimensions of a standard bolt (https://www.trfastenings.com/Produc...hexagon-screws-and-bolts/bolts/TR00002508-100). For a 300mm bolt, it only has 247mm of plain shank.

Ford may have made the threaded section shorter than usual to maximise the plain shank. It is the length of the plain shank on the replacement that is important.

It would also be worth looking for a capscrew as an alternative to a bolt.

When assembled, the bolt is not loaded in shear. It would only see shear if it was loose - all the shear load is dealt with in the friction between crush tube and subframe tube. The larger diameter sections are for assembly alignment and the rest is clearanced to stop it binding with corrosion in the tube - it's unlikely to be for fatigue resistance or like you might see on aviation/motorsport hardware, weight/material reduction is possible though. Decent quality high tensile rolled threaded rod would be perfectly adequate, though it might not work out significantly cheaper than the used bolts.

Have you contacted any of the breakers to enquire if they'd supply you just the bolts? Personally, I'd be chasing the Ford dealer for a pair of bolts for misassembling it in their warranty work.

 

[qwakers]

Kernow fixings. I can collect and post if you like.

 

[Smouser]

Look up th eford finis code number on somewhere like catcar.info then web search for it.

Might find a cheaper source for new bolts.

I am away for the weekend and don't have the part number handy now. I did search before but could not find anything cheaper. I did find a result in Australia which were ~220 AUS dollars. Roughly the same price as here.

Personally, I'd be chasing the Ford dealer for a pair of bolts for misassembling it in their warranty work.

It has been some time since they worked on the truck. Around 2020 if I recall correctly.

Besides, the less I have to do with Ford dealers, the better. In my opinion, they are all hard work with terrible after care.

While I love my truck, I don't ever want to deal with Ford dealers again.

 

[Smouser]

Kernow fixings. I can collect and post if you like.

Thank you for the kind offer.

I have gone for the used bolts - let's see if they turn up and are any good.

If not, I will take you up on the offer.

 

[ajlelectronics]

Besides, the less I have to do with Ford dealers, the better. In my opinion, they are all hard work with terrible after care.

And made many times worse by allowing PartsPlus to rob everyone blind and give zero customer service. Weird isn't it, how my trade price is up to 50% higher from the local outfit than it is retail from another branch on Ebay?

 

[Smouser]

And made many times worse by allowing PartsPlus to rob everyone blind and give zero customer service. Weird isn't it, how my trade price is up to 50% higher from the local outfit than it is retail from another branch on Ebay?

That is insane.

I hate it when I feel I am being fleeced.

 

[Migmac]

Milner off road not got anything?