Help on fillet joint

[backpurge]

Backpurge,
I thought that the general consensous was to weld from the corner outward to the edge of the angle ? And that if done into the corner , it would cause slag inclusions.. Or am I not understanding somthing ?
Oilcooled: why would 4mm not be suitable ? please explain further....

If you try to arc up in the corner due to the extra material you can end up with a cold start and the inherent problems associated with this.

Bit hard to explain in words but most corner joints are made up of 3 welds in a sort of "Y" shape if that makes sense, you would normally run one weld into the corner then deposit the next weld starting at an outside edge, run it into the corner ensuring you fully fuse all material then run out of the corner towards the remaining outside edge, if you understand this you are a better man than I.

Will try and take some photos to explain better if needs be

 

[snowcat]

If you try to arc up in the corner due to the extra material you can end up with a cold start and the inherent problems associated with this.

Will try and take some photos to explain better if needs be

or maybe have a look here

with regards to rod size, I would only ever root with a 4mm on materials over 20mm thick if I was to root with a 4 chances are subsequent passes were with a 5mm or even an 8mm back in the day....

Its a large rod to control in a small gap....

 

[Drains]

To re-iterate

Rods too big
Amps too low (for the rod and the type of joint)
Weld into the corner, not away from it. As stated above more than once, starting in a corner is a bad idea - always hard to avoid slag inclusions/ cold laps. It's hard to start the weld cleanly, hence with both your pics, you're getting inclusions at the beginning, then the weld settles down.

Not ideal with MIG either.

 

[medroberts]

Guys,
The material is 80mm x 80mm x 10mm angle. It is a frame for a work bench. I have drilled holes around the top frame so I can use it as a dual purpose bench ie a removable steel top (18mm plate) and as a jig bench for bolting large tractor components on i.e castings(Iam an agri-engineer by trade). I will post a pic when finshed. So from the advice given : I should weld into the corner, clean the steel to be welded first, use 3.2mm rods not 4mm. I will let you know how I get on in the future. Merry X-mas to you all....

 

[Mid Wales welder]

I found a great site for pretty much all your welding needs, the guy is so helpfull and there are loads of videos! www.weldingtipsandtricks.com

 

[Wozzaaah]

Here's a fantastic site for all your welding advice, the people on there are so helpful and there's some fantastic tutorials!

 

[shirazman]

Guys,
I have just started to weld using my new esab inverter, but Iam having trouble with slag inclusion ? The welding set is CEP+, 140amps,E6013 4mm esab Miltrode electrodes and hot-start on 3 secs. (arc-force turned right down to settin 5 out of 0-99. The pics attached are: No1 -fillet on scrap steel in workshop. (Very happy with this). But second and third pics have flaws in the weld as you can see. The steel being welded is 80x8010mm angle iron. The trouble is that I cannot see what Iam doing wrong in the 2&3 pics as apposed to the first (practice weld). Iam trying to keep the electrode at the correct angle, but still no joy !! And to top it all, I cannot get the grinder in there to reweld. please can the experts help me out ?

A couple of reasons but firstly nothing to do with arc length in fact if its to tight on a fillet the more likely of slag inclusion, tighten the arc it cools the weld, lengthen it it burns hotter. What i suspect here is your rod angle is wrong and/or going to fast. On a fillet weld give the rod angle a slight bias towards the upright as most of the heat and therefore weld will go to the horizontal plate leaving slag inclusion. you also must watch your speed and most importantly keep your eye on the weld pool, it must be crescent behind the rod and if you see it moving change the rod angle slightly and slow down. Eventually you will know when slag inclusion is occuring by sight and also listen to the weld, you can hear it happening. If you see it you can actually flick it out with the rod, lengthen the arc to burn it out and keep moving. You dont say what thickness your angle is? I would up the amps a bit with a 4mm rod, maybe 150ish. Another thing to help is raise one end of your work piece slightly so you are welding uphill. If you cant get the grinder in to slag burn in a hot pass over it with a 3.25 rod on a slight incline
Hope this helps