- Thread starter anto
- Start date
brightspark
Member
- Messages
- 41,270
- Location
- yarm stockton on tees
a 306 will be ok just to change the bulbs to 100watt without altering anything as long as no higher wattage than that. ive had them for years in peugeot partner vans and the 106 car we had
- Messages
- 23,337
- Location
- Birmingham
30A relay, 44/0.3 cable from battery to relay via 20A fuse & 28/0.3 cable from relay to each lamp with optional 10A fuse in each line
Cheers brightspark and robotstar.
Brightspark - perhaps upgrading my wiring for the bigger bulbs would still be a good idea as it will reduce voltage drop and increase performance of the bulbs. It is obviously a handy way of doing i admit.
Robotstar - have you calculated those figures out and if so could you let me know how you did it? Is there an equation for working out wire thickness to attain the correct resistance? More out of curiosity than anything? Ive worked out the resistance of my current wires with my 55w bulbs so that gives me the resistance i should be looking for with the 100w bulbs and new wire.
Brightspark - perhaps upgrading my wiring for the bigger bulbs would still be a good idea as it will reduce voltage drop and increase performance of the bulbs. It is obviously a handy way of doing i admit.
Robotstar - have you calculated those figures out and if so could you let me know how you did it? Is there an equation for working out wire thickness to attain the correct resistance? More out of curiosity than anything? Ive worked out the resistance of my current wires with my 55w bulbs so that gives me the resistance i should be looking for with the 100w bulbs and new wire.
- Messages
- 23,337
- Location
- Birmingham
You normally work it out by dividing the load by the voltage to get the current, e.g. 60 Watt/12 Volt = 5 Amp from that you can spec the relay/fuse size/wire size required.
Cable standard sizes are: 14/0.3 - 8.75A, 28/0.3 - 17.5A, 44/0.3 - 27.5A, etc.
Just size the cable to give yourself a bit of "headroom"
- Messages
- 23,337
- Location
- Birmingham
SPDT - Single Pole Double Throw is a changeover relay, has 5 connections and allows you to switch between 2 circuits, e.g. dip to main beam.
SPNO - Single Pole Normally Open is a standard configuration with 4 connections allowing you to switch 1 circuit on/off
Standard connections are 85 - coil feed (e.g. from a switch), 86 - ground, 30 - battery (fused) feed, 87 - switched output (to lights etc.) and if you have an SPDT relay, 87a - normally closed output that opens when coil is energised.
You will only need the SPNO type relay for switching your headlamps.
What if i wanted my dipped beam to stay on with my main beam?
Reason i ask is that at the minute when i flick to main beam the dips turn off. This is because i swapped my h4 lights for twin h7 lights and my light control stalk doesnt take for this.
Reason i ask is that at the minute when i flick to main beam the dips turn off. This is because i swapped my h4 lights for twin h7 lights and my light control stalk doesnt take for this.
- Messages
- 23,337
- Location
- Birmingham
Are they lamps designed to do that? as an uprated twin filament lamp could overheat the reflector with both elements on!
It is possible to do but could get a bit complicated for some one new to auto electrics, no offence
Willing to learn robotstar lol
Yes they are twin bulb headlights from the younger model designed to have both on at the same time.
I could change the light stalk to the younger model but wheres the fun in that.
Im sure there is a way to do it with the relays and a bit of wiring. (not as simple as that obviously lol)
Basically i need to get power to the dipped when main is on but in a way that doesnt allow the main on when dipped is selected.
Yes they are twin bulb headlights from the younger model designed to have both on at the same time.
I could change the light stalk to the younger model but wheres the fun in that.
Im sure there is a way to do it with the relays and a bit of wiring. (not as simple as that obviously lol)
Basically i need to get power to the dipped when main is on but in a way that doesnt allow the main on when dipped is selected.
Could i use an appropriately sized diode to link a wire from the main beam feed into the dipped beam feed and therefore allow the dipped to light when the main is on buit the diode will prevent surrent from travelling to the main when the dipped is on?
- Messages
- 23,337
- Location
- Birmingham
Side/headlight switch sends headlight power to dip/main switch so disconnect dip wiring from outgoing side of dipswitch and connect it to incoming side, that way all the dipswitch does is turn on the main beam when you want it.
- Messages
- 23,337
- Location
- Birmingham
Have you got a wiring digram for the car? it will show you what colour wires go where and what they do. Look for one from the light switch to the dip/main switch, then find the one from the dip/main switch to dip beam circuit, this is the one to cut 
and re-connect to the first one.
If it was british, the first wire would be blue and the second blue/red.
and re-connect to the first one.If it was british, the first wire would be blue and the second blue/red.
- Messages
- 23,337
- Location
- Birmingham
I started to get lost at post 41 ...lol.....so much for my mech to elec training .......golf was easy though.....well done Stu/BS
I've always enjoyed auto-electrics, although modern cars with multiple ECU's don't like having the wiring messed with, can throw up all sorts of problems.
gavuk
artful-bodger
- Messages
- 2,951
- Location
- Wilts
i prefer 21 year old golfs....no ecu ,no electric windows ,no central locking ,no lambda or catalyst obviously ...aircon ...open a window or drop the roof
.....with the relay's and brighter bulbs (legal) i'm well pleased ....Keeps Anto out of trouble for a while
- Messages
- 23,337
- Location
- Birmingham
i prefer 21 year old golfs....no ecu ,no electric windows ,no central locking ,no lambda or catalyst obviously ...aircon ...open a window or drop the roof
Have you had any problems with the instrument binnacle?, I had a load of trouble sorting an '87 Polo, traced problems to PCB behind clocks.
gavuk
artful-bodger
- Messages
- 2,951
- Location
- Wilts
Not as yet,what were the symptoms?..had a 89 scirroco before the golf no problems either.....things do fail ,i'm not blind to their problems,but can normally fix myself without using garages...
Have you got a wiring digram for the car? it will show you what colour wires go where and what they do. Look for one from the light switch to the dip/main switch, then find the one from the dip/main switch to dip beam circuit, this is the one to cut
If it was british, the first wire would be blue and the second blue/red.
On the wiring diagram i have, the light switch and dipped/ main switch seem to be all one giant switch so no wires to cut and reconnect.
I have one mauve coloured wire coming out for the dip circuit and a brown wire for the main circuit.
Any ideas?
i prefer 21 year old golfs....no ecu ,no electric windows ,no central locking ,no lambda or catalyst obviously ...aircon ...open a window or drop the roof
This is why i like my 306 diesel, no ecu, all it needs is a 12v positive to the pump and it'l go.
