Gloss paint

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

and cost us all a bloody packet replacing rotten timber so how does that work

Lead paint was even better. Seen 300yo sash windows in better shape than there 1990s counterparts.

 

[Shedendman]

I Always run a layer of two part woodfiller down visible end grain and sand.

I tend to fire gloss on with a brush then hit it with the roller.

many ways to seal an edge,which ever you choose is down to you,just looks horrid if its not done esp on MDF

 

[MattF]

I Always run a layer of two part woodfiller down visible end grain and sand.

Seriously, they'd hang, draw & quarter me if I worked to that degree. They even get on about how fussy I tend to be when working to what I class as a crap but functional level.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

still think i get a better finis

Still got my purdys in the garage.
Used to paint hand made kitchens. Great job. Had to be perfect. Shelac and flatten countless times before letting it see the top coat.
Then some muppet walks in with a bit of timber coveres in sawdust. :/

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

many ways to seal an edge,which ever you choose is down to you,just looks horrid if its not done esp on MDF

Have to work with the stuff all the time. 9 out of ten times I return to find the decs havent bothered.

 

[MattF]

many ways to seal an edge,which ever you choose is down to you,just looks horrid if its not done esp on MDF

Knowing how they tend to bash corners on everything, finishing an edge there would require some form of metal protection strip. Filling or fine sanding would be a pointless indulgence, & very short lived.

 

[Shedendman]

Tell you what does give a good finish,foam brushes,used them a few years back on skirting was quite impress
https://chestnutproducts.co.uk/product/foam-brushes/
Prob is,they dont last

 

[MattF]

Still got my purdys in the garage.
Used to paint hand made kitchens. Great job. Had to be perfect. Shelac and flatten countless times before letting it see the top coat.
Then some muppet walks in with a bit of timber coveres in sawdust. :/

One of the most irksome occasions I remember was a Farboline base coat which was taking ages to dry, so I couldn't apply the top 'til it went off. The boss had left making the frame 'til the last minute, as per usual, (it was supposed to be fitted within a few days), so he insisted on applying the topcoat himself, whilst the base was still wet in places. The top dragged the base coat, so it ended up being a let it dry, sand back & redo affair. It ended up taking way longer than it would have done originally.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Knowing how they tend to bash corners on everything, finishing an edge there would require some form of metal protection strip. Filling or fine sanding would be a pointless indulgence, & very short lived.

Glue and tack some 6x18 strip wood is a quick and easy option to protect and finish.
Assuming it is 18mm can buy sized strip wood from wickes for ease.

 

[Olderisbetter]

I use a good quality foam roller in one hand and a brush in the other at the same time, I do the work of two men that way...
Laurel and Hardy

 

[Turbo]

Either a fine cell gloss foam roller or even better a short pile mohair roller. The foam is better on uneven surfaces but tends to leave an orange peel finish no matter what you do, the mohair is a lot smoother. If I'm painting doors I apply the paint with a roller then go over it with a paint brush to smooth out any roller marks.