Ah ok thanks, so I dont want the spots on the bottom? I thought that showed the penetration required, what should the bottom look like please?Your approach is correct. Depending on material thickness, you could lay short beads rather than spots, but still overlap and leave no gaps. The final result should be continuous.
It looks like you've welded both sides, like the spots have sagged while molten. Too hot and too much metal; have a play with wfs, power (volts) and duration.
Id agree but also looks like you need to get your head in closer or wear glasses under the mask so you can see actually what's happening in the weld!Try doing a series of 4 to 5 spots. After each spot adjust slightly so the wire is going to connect at the edge of the last spot weld. When you’ve done your series of spot welds move to another part i.e. opposite so the metal has time to cool down.
You will find slow and sure actually speeds up the weld as you don’t have to go back over it or grind away as much after.
Id agree but also looks like you need to get your head in closer or wear glasses under the mask so you can see actually what's happening in the weld!
What thickness are you welding? And what mig machine, and settingsAh ok thanks, so I dont want the spots on the bottom? I thought that showed the penetration required, what should the bottom look like please?
Thanks for the help
It has some good aspects, but some down sides too!That’s me to a T. I’ve now got a +3 cheater lens in the helmet and still have my head close. Don’t you just love getting older