Mike Sanders grease and then heatgun on the seam; it becomes waterlike, and flows realy well.
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James1979
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If you read the instructions for all that stuff then it says put it on warm. It’s easier in the winter as I just stand the cab on the workshop heater so it warms while I’m doing a gun full, then top up with warm stuff. Makes a big difference. Goes on better and you use less.
To be fair from my experience, if you’ve got a box section and you’re wondering how to preserve the inside then you’ve missed the boat! The only time I’ve known it work is when it’s been put on from new and re applied. Box section rots from the inside usually so once you see it then it’s quite far gone.
To be fair from my experience, if you’ve got a box section and you’re wondering how to preserve the inside then you’ve missed the boat! The only time I’ve known it work is when it’s been put on from new and re applied. Box section rots from the inside usually so once you see it then it’s quite far gone.
Be careful with the rust converter stuff. I have never had any luck with it. It goes on, dries black/blueish and you think it's worked. I think for it to work you need an even layer of just the right depth- which ain't gonna happen! Anything I have used this on has rusted within months and it has been so frustrating as many of the items had lots of effort put I to removing the majority of the rust.Wow.
I can only think that to truly treat a chassis - it'd have to be fully immersed in a tank and left to soak.
(Impractical I know for 99% of us. I'm in the same boat - scrabbling about on my back underneath, and struggling).
Only stuff that's "runny" enough I'd have thought would be some of the phosphoric based "rust converter" products?
Flood areas, then allow to dry, and then thin down Waxoyl with white spirit and inject maybe.
I'm not sure there is a viable solution at all
My new preferred method of rust removal is electrolysis, but that isn't an option with a chassis. I also use a diluted phosphoric acid, but I o ly use that when I have removed as much rust as possible - and then I do the coating of my choice (usually Bonda Rust Primer) and a corrosion reducing covering (I used Lanoguard but just about to order some fluid film).
I think all we can do is try to slow down the rust as much as possible and I think that means getting a product that really does get between the skins. I agree that applying it warm should help as most of the products seem to be oil/wax based and they tend to flow better when warner. I presume the fluid and the chassis would need to be as warm as possible or the fluid would cool quickly as soon as it touches the steel. Typically I will be doing this just as we come out of the warmer weather!
When I gave my Lancia a coat of looking at after it had been around for 25 yrs, I had it on a rotisserie, sprayed Noxudol 700 using a pressure pot and long lance inside it, left it a few days, rotated it 90 degree, repeated the spray, few more days, another 90 degrees etc
I'll let you know in 2042 if it worked any better than the original treatment.
With all the cavity waxes I've looked at, they suggest a reapplication after a few years.
I'll let you know in 2042 if it worked any better than the original treatment.
With all the cavity waxes I've looked at, they suggest a reapplication after a few years.
James1979
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Best thing is a long tube with an end in that lets the spray out at 90 deg to the end but in a 360 pattern if that makes sense.
You could bore then cross drill a suitable bolt and make something. Feed it right in to the box and withdraw it as you are spraying
You could bore then cross drill a suitable bolt and make something. Feed it right in to the box and withdraw it as you are spraying
Mike Sanders grease - apply at 120 degrees C? Not sure how I would apply that.
It's a great idea as if it needs heating then you would expect it to flow quickly, even though it will lose a lot of the heat as soon as it hits the chassis - but perhaps that is why it is such a high temperature to start with.
That is a great way of addressing it. The treatment will have gravity working it into any seams and crevices which is the best method as gravity always works.
I am going to use fluid film on the outside as it will allow me to see any issues on the outside as they appear. I should also to be able to top up areas I miss and areas that get a battering so require more attention.
I did the underneath of the land rover a few months ago and as I go under it to do other work I realise I have missed places but unfortunately I have currently run out (that was Lanoguard but I am going to order fluid film as you get far more for your money and I don't want to skimp on its application).
ah .... thats such an old fashioned way to look at it ,,, acf50 as an example of modern fluid film is applied in microns ,, ie just misted on ,,,, not put in till it runs out of the bottom ,, thats farmer thinking.
julianf
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This is why im way more into the idea of a chassis thats been made of flat plate and then welded up, than the original style.
I cant think that even hot dip galv would seep into all those places.
(note, ive forgotten how richards do theirs, but ive got a deposit down anyway, so its a moot point for me personally now!)
yep those extra corner parts dont do it any favors at all ,, they look worse than that pic when they are full of mud and rusticles too of course.
You are ok - they are flat plate and welded at the joins.
The reson for a heavy initial application is to get between those double skinned areas. I would be surprised if a misting would do that.
how long have you had a farm ??
Thats exactly what a mist does ,,, its good enough to get between skins and rivets on aircraft wings and prevent corrosion by driving out water ,,, When they start using waxol on helicopters Ill buy some , till then its thin film technology .
graffian
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I made[cobbled together] a nozzle from a bleed nipple and a female brake pipe fitting, it goes on the end of 5m of 5mm OD nylon pipe.
It looks crap but put's out a really nice conical pattern.
Blobber
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How come its all rusty then?
maybe it just started life rusty ,,, if it was a land rover part you wouldnt expect anything less / more .How come its all rusty then?
slim_boy_fat
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Not sure what they use in the fixed wing world these days, but the mighty Chinook gets liberally coated in PX24 on a regular basis, and every time it goes anywhere near salty water. But it still rots worse than an 1970's family estate car.how long have you had a farm ??
Thats exactly what a mist does ,,, its good enough to get between skins and rivets on aircraft wings and prevent corrosion by driving out water ,,, When they start using waxol on helicopters Ill buy some , till then its thin film technology .
And I seem to recall the Sea Harrier having terrible corrosion issues, especially at the back end which overhung the deck when parked up on the carriers, despite continal application of corrosion preventatives.
So that doesn't seem to work very well either.
But I guess that anything is better than nothing.
Ambersil PX24 Protective Lubricant | Silmid
Ambersil PX24 protects against corrosion, water displacement, lubrication and light surface rust removal.
www.silmid.com
