theres a newer better thin film that the local aircraft factory use ,,,, but it just comes in a clear plastic gallon can [ well thats how I get it ] I was told what its called but I cant remember ,, acf is available off tinternet ,, its still way way better than wax . Yep its true though , if you stand beside an aircraft in a hanger you can actually hear it dissolving ,,, sort of like standing beside a land rover ,,, if you stand still and listen hard I think you can hear them rusting.
- Thread starter julianf
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James1979
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At least they’re supplied solid so you have a fighting chance to preserve them.
Ford have a rusting department on the line at the factory I think…..
A mate has got an 18 month old ford ranger raptor. And the chassis has rust on it everywhere. They must put the thinnest coat of black paint on them.
Underbody coatings are quite often a dealer option in the US.
My Dodge was just paint - with many carefully designed in grot traps . . . it got a good coating with 3M shultz where I could reach, and underbody wax where I could only get a lance. Four years in its looking pretty much okay.
I had a electric one pot cooking burner (?!) I also bougth their overpressure sprayer.
You have to heat up the spraygun as well with a heatgun.
Huge mess, but I do think(hope
) it is the best way to keep an MX5 from rotting away.get the acf50 out and keep it that way ,,,
pedrobedro
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I just re-read the thread title and realised if you are getting a few more years out of it it isn't an end of life chassis yet 
One of the things that pi**es me off about repairing a chassis is that you buy the part and it is coated with rust propagation paint. It is from Satan's own stock, Dante class 3, and seams to be designed to suck moisture from the air, hide it carefully behind its glossy facade and quickly metamorphosize into a ferrous reducing elixir of pure devastation.
All the effort, expense and health reducing processes required to bring the chassis back to life are dismissed as Satan's spell is unleashed on the unsuspecting owner of the pride and joy vehicle as it turns into ferrous leaf litter.
Yet still we believe.............!
All the effort, expense and health reducing processes required to bring the chassis back to life are dismissed as Satan's spell is unleashed on the unsuspecting owner of the pride and joy vehicle as it turns into ferrous leaf litter.
Yet still we believe.............!
now acf 50 it ,,,, quickly .
julianf
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I won't fit it until next summer, so I'll take my time. I'll epoxy it and then 2k top. I'll spray somthing inside, but not sure what.
Even with nothing it will probably outlast me though.
yep , it will take that long to de gas anyways ,,, in the days before I discovered acf50 , and when waxol still had the old formula , I would turn the new chassis upside down , and hang it from the low loader and throw a good taste of waxol into the chassis ,,, sit the raised end on a barrel and let it sit for a week in the sun ,,, then lift it from the other end and do the same again ... let it sit , and then turn it the right way up for building , and throw in some more waxol just for good measure ,,, but that really was the old days .
New boots were 4d a pair and beer was a penny a pint ,,, and we all had Hovis for lunch , sitting in the sun swatting flies we ar flat caps ,,,,,
well ok not quite but you get the idea.
I thought degassing was done by heating the component prior to powder coating?
The galv will need to be treated or weather before painting. I don't know enough about this myself so can't guide you, but I have just fitted a second hand galvanised crossmember to my defender and the paint was peeling off. This was done with quality paint and yet it was coming off - obviously starting off where the paint had been damaged.
I definitely think an additional coating on top of galvanising is a good idea - either paint or rust prevention.
Good luck with the build, I expect to have to do it myself sometime in the future!
The galv will need to be treated or weather before painting. I don't know enough about this myself so can't guide you, but I have just fitted a second hand galvanised crossmember to my defender and the paint was peeling off. This was done with quality paint and yet it was coming off - obviously starting off where the paint had been damaged.
I definitely think an additional coating on top of galvanising is a good idea - either paint or rust prevention.
Good luck with the build, I expect to have to do it myself sometime in the future!
julianf
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It makes it look cheaper.
julianf
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The datasheet for lechsys epoxy states fresh gav as an acceptable substrate.
I use it to paint alluminium all the time. Normally another troublesome substrate - and it's fine for that.
t wash is an option , or the galv will oxidize , till then any paint you put on can come off in sheets ,,
I dont like using t wash unless I have to , once the bright shine has gone off new galv its usually ok , thats if it got a good hot dip , its not as easy to tell if its kind of dull to start with though.
I dont like using t wash unless I have to , once the bright shine has gone off new galv its usually ok , thats if it got a good hot dip , its not as easy to tell if its kind of dull to start with though.
