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CompoSimmonite
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The chassis on my UMM is 6mm and even bodywork is 2mm
Tinbasherdan
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No no, you’re right. Being the chairman of a Landy club and having had them since I learned to drive, I know nothing about how Landy chassis fail. I’ve certainly not repaired tens of them, nor condemned them when they’ve got to the point you describe. Neither have I had to ratchet strap Landy axles up to get them somewhere safe to look at them on events. And they certainly never go when hitting a bump at high speed pushes the axle in precisely the direction it needs to to rip a mount off, or when heavy braking tries to detach the rear. What do I know.
Oh, and there definitely wasn’t that bloke that killed his kids when his bodged up truck decided to steer itself into a river. Nope, never. you wanted advice and you got it, just because it wasn’t what you wanted to hear doesn’t mean I’m trying to look big, it’s because I’ve seen it before
julianf
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To set your mind at rest, I specifically won't take my child in it anyway, as, after having the thing in pieces, I realised that 1.5mm of alluminium is not going to save anyone on a crash.
At some point I'll fit a cage to it, bit there's no point in doing that prior to a new chasiss anyway, as the cage will require body cutting and I'd rather get it all in the right place before cutting holes in it.
I think my original post made my intention clear. I said it had gone in specific places due to specify circumstance.
I remember asking about a trailer on here once that I was set to buy. Someone, not yourself, came along and said "that's a crap trailer, buy an ifor Williams"
At the time I didn't have two pence to run together and here was one of those folk saying "don't buy that £80 trailer, buy an £1800 one instead". I don't really know why they made the comment.
Again, my original post is still there at the top of the thread. It states where the chasiss has needed repair and why. I don't think it will last forever, as nothing will, but, again, you have piped up with £2600 or now it won't just be me who dies, but my child as well!
There is nothing in my original post to suggest excessive damage beyond my own statement that I don't think it will last forever, and yet you've got hold of that, with all your years of experience, and told me that if I don't fork out £2600 tomorrow, I, and now my child, will be dead like all the others.
*Oh, the £80 trailer got a new floor and is still in use a decade later.
Tinbasherdan
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Your thread is titled end of life chassis? Do what you want with it, I couldn’t care less if I passed you upside down in a ditch tomorrow to be honest, I don’t know you and I don’t overly care what happens to you. You wanted an opinion, I gave you an educated one. If you know best then why ask the question in the first place?
I’ll build mine right, you do what you want with yours, on the cheap
I’ll build mine right, you do what you want with yours, on the cheap
julianf
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Might I remind you that I have seen and worked on the chasiss and consider it less dangerous than the danger imposed by a standard alluminium landrover body.
Additionally it was passed by a (multi) landrover owning MOT tester only weeks ago. I deliberately didn't paint any gunk on the job before hand not only as I'm not keen on that stuff, but also so as he could have a good look at it. The chap found a single oversight by me.
Further the question was on how to stabilise a chasiss that I intend to replace.
You, despite complaining that I shouldn't have asked the question if I didn't want your answer, were not actually answering the question asked.
You are some chap off the internet who has never seen the item, and yet is condemning both my opinion and the opinion of a landrover owning MOT tester because "you know better"
How do you really think anyone is going to react to that?
You've never seen the job. You've told me that I'm wrong. You've told me that the MOT tester is wrong. You've not bothered to try and answer the question asked, and yet we all now know you're the chairman of a landrover club, that you've owned more landrovers than I've had hot dinners and watched children die.
You got the hump because I said you were trying to make yourself look important, you've told me you don't care about me anyway, and yet you're still here, complaining that I won't take your advice.
I should have just ignored your initial comment. It's just tedious when people don't even bother to read the question and then threaten death to anyone who doesn't immediately do as they say.
When I get up tomorrow I'll likely ask one of the mods to delete this thread so we can both escape the shame of a pathetic internet conflict.
Additionally it was passed by a (multi) landrover owning MOT tester only weeks ago. I deliberately didn't paint any gunk on the job before hand not only as I'm not keen on that stuff, but also so as he could have a good look at it. The chap found a single oversight by me.
Further the question was on how to stabilise a chasiss that I intend to replace.
You, despite complaining that I shouldn't have asked the question if I didn't want your answer, were not actually answering the question asked.
You are some chap off the internet who has never seen the item, and yet is condemning both my opinion and the opinion of a landrover owning MOT tester because "you know better"
How do you really think anyone is going to react to that?
You've never seen the job. You've told me that I'm wrong. You've told me that the MOT tester is wrong. You've not bothered to try and answer the question asked, and yet we all now know you're the chairman of a landrover club, that you've owned more landrovers than I've had hot dinners and watched children die.
You got the hump because I said you were trying to make yourself look important, you've told me you don't care about me anyway, and yet you're still here, complaining that I won't take your advice.
I should have just ignored your initial comment. It's just tedious when people don't even bother to read the question and then threaten death to anyone who doesn't immediately do as they say.
When I get up tomorrow I'll likely ask one of the mods to delete this thread so we can both escape the shame of a pathetic internet conflict.
Gareth J
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How bad is it? And how long is not long?
Bit of a how long is a bit if string question but it boils down to a couple of tactics I can think of
-Slow the rot,
Somehow, keep, salts and water/oxygen out.
-cover up places the rot is visible
Patch/repair as needed/is in keeping with the "how long" question.
Bit of a how long is a bit if string question but it boils down to a couple of tactics I can think of
-Slow the rot,
Somehow, keep, salts and water/oxygen out.
-cover up places the rot is visible
Patch/repair as needed/is in keeping with the "how long" question.
slim_boy_fat
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Another thread degenerates into personal attacks. 
I would think if it's at this stage any time spent applying any kind of oil or paint would be better spent patching the worst areas.
The bottom of the inside chassis rails are likely covered in broken off flakey rust that wouldn't allow anything but the thinnest oils get to the thick layer of porous rust below that will never be fully sealed and let in moisture anyway making the whole effort a waste of time and money.
There are probably a few small areas that are right on the verge of rotting through before your next MOT and will only be more of a pain to weld once covered in anything. If you went round your chassis with a 1/2lb hammer now and hit it like you wanted to find the rot I'm sure you could find a few holes an MOT test with the comically small hammer wouldn't.
Just my opinion but I tested on and offf for about a decade before I gave it up about 6 years ago, welding up old the old rotters too, plenty of discoveries.... never the "just a small patch" the MOT found.
The bottom of the inside chassis rails are likely covered in broken off flakey rust that wouldn't allow anything but the thinnest oils get to the thick layer of porous rust below that will never be fully sealed and let in moisture anyway making the whole effort a waste of time and money.
There are probably a few small areas that are right on the verge of rotting through before your next MOT and will only be more of a pain to weld once covered in anything. If you went round your chassis with a 1/2lb hammer now and hit it like you wanted to find the rot I'm sure you could find a few holes an MOT test with the comically small hammer wouldn't.
Just my opinion but I tested on and offf for about a decade before I gave it up about 6 years ago, welding up old the old rotters too, plenty of discoveries.... never the "just a small patch" the MOT found.
well id really like to see you put the body back on after doing a pair of bulk head outriggers that way ,, I wouldnt dream of taking a body off unless i really really had to , and a few patches certainly wouldnt warrant it , maybe if its for your self it may work out but once the bodys coming off its getting a chassis round these parts .
8ob
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Done plenty of this sort of work on Landrovers Tom, anyone daft enough to cut the outriggers or any chassis members off before they have made up a simple jig to pick up all the bolt holes deserves the hiding they are in for. This is really simple stuff to work on, its my preference to lift off a body section or even the whole lot because I am too old to be grovelling about underneath these things.
Bob
Becoming rather too common... :-(Another thread degenerates into personal attacks.
lol ,,, a jig ,,, no two of them ever left the factory the same size or shape ,,, unless its a jig made from foam rubber and trampoline springs it will never line up again ever ,, without a porta power I dont think most land rover doors would ever fit in the hole let alone close ,,, I do most / no make that all the chassis repairs on a four poster ,,, grovel about under one , ,, , , not on yer nellie
julianf
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Defcon 5 -
Just put down a deposit on private sale "shelved / abandoned project" Richard's chasiss.
This one has the mounts for the metal fuel tank, and, given the choice, I'd have swapped to the plastic td5 tank, but otherwise it's the spec I need, and only about 40 mins drive away.
Assuming it's not all an elaborate con, I guess that's next summer's project lined up!
Just put down a deposit on private sale "shelved / abandoned project" Richard's chasiss.
This one has the mounts for the metal fuel tank, and, given the choice, I'd have swapped to the plastic td5 tank, but otherwise it's the spec I need, and only about 40 mins drive away.
Assuming it's not all an elaborate con, I guess that's next summer's project lined up!
Nice one!
I bought a welder, started learning to weld (solidly if not prettily) specifically to try and keep my year 2000 vehicle on the road.
OK- it's not a Landy, but the separate chassis etc isn't so different, while an LDV Convoy body is no stranger to Tin Weevil.
FWIW, I've not squirted/injected any waxoyl or any other product into the chassis, while the floorpan and arches are sprayed in a mix of waxoyl & underseal.... so basically it seems like I've done everything wrong
So far though, the chassis seems to be holding up pretty well (plated behind the rear wheels - pretty common) and I had to weld up the bolt-on x-member under the engine and plate the chassis beneath the mounting points earlier this year. Other than these points and a couple of outriggers to the sills, its pretty good - so I've no plans to do anything different atm, and to plate it as & when required.
OK- it's not a Landy, but the separate chassis etc isn't so different, while an LDV Convoy body is no stranger to Tin Weevil.
FWIW, I've not squirted/injected any waxoyl or any other product into the chassis, while the floorpan and arches are sprayed in a mix of waxoyl & underseal.... so basically it seems like I've done everything wrong
So far though, the chassis seems to be holding up pretty well (plated behind the rear wheels - pretty common) and I had to weld up the bolt-on x-member under the engine and plate the chassis beneath the mounting points earlier this year. Other than these points and a couple of outriggers to the sills, its pretty good - so I've no plans to do anything different atm, and to plate it as & when required.
Well unfortunately I am one of those lying on my back on the drive fixing it types. I would really like to be one of those fix it on a ramp types, but I ain't got that facility.
As soon as the weather is good enough I will be replacing my rear crossmember. I know long term a chassis swap will be required, but for now, patching is my way forward.
I have been lucky enough to be given a used rear crossmember. It is galvanised and in good condition. I have had to prep it for fitting and that required me to remove the old chassis sections from it.
After seeing how the chassis is manufactured it is no wonder they rust from the inside out. It is full of water traps and as such I think any treatment for the inside needs to be thin enough to allow it to flow easily into these places - I think anything thick or waxy may struggle to penetrate to where it needs to be.
You can see the overlaps here on this section I removed. This section is from the area just inside the extensions on a replacement crossmember. I think anything that can get between those skins needs to flow like water. I think it will also have to be injected well and be in sufficient quantities to get everywhere - I can see a few drips coming out so lots of tarps and cardboard required to save from bollockings from the boss!
When I cut my old crossmember off I will be inspecting the inside as best I can for an assessment of how long I think I have left!!
If anyone has recommendations for a suitable fluid for inside the chassis and which applicators are reasonable please mention it here with links if possible. I think myself and the OP would benefit from your experience and knowledge.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Mick
As soon as the weather is good enough I will be replacing my rear crossmember. I know long term a chassis swap will be required, but for now, patching is my way forward.
I have been lucky enough to be given a used rear crossmember. It is galvanised and in good condition. I have had to prep it for fitting and that required me to remove the old chassis sections from it.
After seeing how the chassis is manufactured it is no wonder they rust from the inside out. It is full of water traps and as such I think any treatment for the inside needs to be thin enough to allow it to flow easily into these places - I think anything thick or waxy may struggle to penetrate to where it needs to be.
You can see the overlaps here on this section I removed. This section is from the area just inside the extensions on a replacement crossmember. I think anything that can get between those skins needs to flow like water. I think it will also have to be injected well and be in sufficient quantities to get everywhere - I can see a few drips coming out so lots of tarps and cardboard required to save from bollockings from the boss!
When I cut my old crossmember off I will be inspecting the inside as best I can for an assessment of how long I think I have left!!
If anyone has recommendations for a suitable fluid for inside the chassis and which applicators are reasonable please mention it here with links if possible. I think myself and the OP would benefit from your experience and knowledge.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Mick
Wow.
I can only think that to truly treat a chassis - it'd have to be fully immersed in a tank and left to soak.
(Impractical I know for 99% of us. I'm in the same boat - scrabbling about on my back underneath, and struggling).
Only stuff that's "runny" enough I'd have thought would be some of the phosphoric based "rust converter" products?
Flood areas, then allow to dry, and then thin down Waxoyl with white spirit and inject maybe.
I'm not sure there is a viable solution at all
