No problems,make a spring loaded one ,although it looks a bodge ,when you’re asked to sort a problem with an existing installation it works.Hardly any drives are level.
No problems,make a spring loaded one ,although it looks a bodge ,when you’re asked to sort a problem with an existing installation it works.Hardly any drives are level.
For a 2m gatepost you definitely need more than 600mm below ground unless the ground is exceptionally hard. As a rule of thumb a fencepost needs about a third of the visible length of the post below ground eg an 8' post would have 2' below ground and 6' above ground.
A gatepost has a lot more weight put on it plus if it moves just a small amount it may not close! I'd put at least a third of the gatepost below ground i.e. 1m below ground 2m above, but it really does depend on just how heavy the gate is and how hard the ground is.
So using your 1/3rd method he needs 666mm in the ground.
I doubt 6.6cm is going to be a deal breaker.
I agree 1m is more like it.
Haven't a clue how spring loading a gate overcomes slope?!No problems,make a spring loaded one ,although it looks a bodge ,when you’re asked to sort a problem with an existing installation it works.
DohYou've mis-read him. The 1/3 of visible is for fence posts. For gate posts he's advocating 1/3 of total (or 1/2 of visible) length below ground so that would be 2m above 1m below.
Easy kent just a strong enough spring to support the gate ,yet can still accommodate the ground rise/fall,I used springs off some old starter motors.Haven't a clue how spring loading a gate overcomes slope?!
No way would i do anything to someone else's instal problem 1. You take on a lot of responsibility 2. You just couldn't charge enough
The only exception being genuine restoration work on period stuff or simple site welding when all you tske resonibility for is the welding (although if its a rubbish job i have to consider people thinking its my work)
A post should be built off a club foot foundation with rebar backfilled with concreate going up tgrough the core of the post.
Can you explain what a club foot foundation is Kent?
If I’m putting heavy gates in I’ve always:
• Drilled out 12” hole with an auger. 600-800 deep for a 1.2m high farm gate.
• Tamped the clay/mud bottom flat and solid with a steel pole and foot.
• Chuck in a bit of dry mix to get the post levelled.
• SHS 100x100x6mm wall with a 200x200 square foot plate 10mm thick set in the hole.
• Fill with concrete 4:1 tamping as we go. Leave overnight to set.
If I need it set quicker I’ve used postcrete.
Lot of faff for no real extra support then, if it gives its not supporting muchEasy kent just a strong enough spring to support the gate ,yet can still accommodate the ground rise/fall,I used springs off some old starter motors.
Eh, just saying a brace thats made of rubber is pretty useless. Ok its a spring not rubber but the principle is the same. If we are looking at a lightweight erw tube gate on a farm thats a lot different than a heavy ironwork one or heaven forbid an oak infil etc.Contradicting your statement it fully supported a 20’ yard gate on a cattle pen ,last time I visited the farm it had done 5 years service,it wouldn’t be my plan to hang a gate this way,but the farmer asked me to fix his problem quick and cheap and to ensure it worked,which it did.sometimes we have to work with what’s available.