ive only ever used pb
Which is why this thread, along with many others on here is now useless.
I keep bumping this sticky thread in the hope people will use the forum server but obviously it hasn't worked.
pics that are missing
And you are SURE this wont need a SVA?
SVA is gone, it's about 3 times dearer and called IVA now. If the floor pan is altered it should really be tested and probably re-registered but if it looks standard enough and passes MOT it may get away with it. What have you replaced the double skin round the gearbox tunnel with?. Insuring it may be another matter completely.
As said before as soon as you increase the engine cc. you need an engineers report!
but this is only going to go around in circles this debate! now get on with the build and keep us updated lol
update time and the first of many problems
the problem ive ran into is, as the cradle sits now were it needs to be so the wheels are in the center of the wheel arch the engine will sit in side the car by about 3inch mmmmm
so do i cut away and have the engine more inside the car witch will make the balance of the car amasing BUT i would need to make my own tunel , move the seat back and have to use a floor mounted pedal box OR do i make my own engine mounts up that moves the engine 3inch forward thus fitting in the bay and not needing alot of work ???????
Would it be easier to have the engine and box mounted as it should be with the floor and get a custom prop shaft made to length needed for wheels to be centred?
Or am I not understanding what you mean?l
make a new subframe and new engine mounts.
the subframe has to be there to line the wheels up in the arch, there is nothing wrong with the subframe im using .
way i see it is i can eather use the subframe engine mounts to mount to the engine but i have to make engine mounts to move the engine 3inch forward or mount the engine to the frame i made out of box section so its not even attached to the subframe at all .
The thing that determined my engine and gearbox position was where the gear lever ended up. Make a propshaft to fit with the rear wheels in position so they looked right in the rear arches.
yeah thats why i need to move the engine forward 3inch, prop i can get made .
im thinking of mounting the engine like this off the box section i made not off the subframe like is should be
YAYYYYYYYY EVERY THING LINES UP :boogie:
this part was realy important, the geometry of the front end had to be like oem , just took time setting every thing up ,there was alot of angles that i had to think about , if i moved the shocker by a couple of cm the wheel was out of line .im buying all the adjustable arms but i still wanted it to be spot on .
the shocker tops will be double plated to add strength
the offset of the oem wheels is mint meaning i can stick some 8" or 9" on the front
out of interest, why didnt you make or buy eccentric top mounts?
the coilovers im going to order have camber sliders but i do see your point, ive never looked into them realy.
i highly recommend them, whilst your at this stage id stick them on now, two plates with lots of holes for infinate adjustment, changing the geometry like your potentially doing can be a nightmare to set up the suspension properly.
Will it be yourself or a specialst tuning company?
i'll get some were to set the car up.
ive had a look about and it seems no one make s them for s13s there all for old cars...
but i found these , does any one know were i could get a set for a s13 ?
make em! you can still get them for all the ford range of cars, its basically 2 plates with lots of holes for the adjustment, then you can rotate the top movable one so the lower plate is fixed to the body and the top one has bolts to fix it to your desired location
remember if you make your own to factor in the eccentric top sections
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