My Old Landy
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That's not good. I've not personally had that so I don't know what you would need to alter to stop the initial squash being so hard.
- Thread starter Dr.Al
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My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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Try printing a Dummy 13 they are a great model and do test the printer on little things.And I haven’t yet printed anything with such a small footprint.
Kram
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If the bed adhesion is that excellent you can turn the plate temperature down by 5 or 10 degrees, that should help quite a bit. Some filaments will need slight adjustment.
The Amazon textured plates were slightly less good tha the original but perhaps nust needed some cleaning
I mistakenly did a PETG print last week with bed at 100c. There is a short line of what may end up being permenent small bump of black petg, but I've not tried a metal scraper. Might try a soft metal scraper if fingernail doesnt work.
The Amazon textured plates were slightly less good tha the original but perhaps nust needed some cleaning
I mistakenly did a PETG print last week with bed at 100c. There is a short line of what may end up being permenent small bump of black petg, but I've not tried a metal scraper. Might try a soft metal scraper if fingernail doesnt work.
Should do but if it doesnt then a liggt dusting of 3Dlac will solve any troubles.
Dr.Al
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I've been printing lots of stuff over the last week or so and that's led me to make a few comparisons to the old Prusa:
It's a lot faster than the Prusa, especially when you print with Bambu filament. The slicer is a little optimistic in timing (whereas the Prusa was generally right to within about 5 minutes, even on a multi-day print), but it's not too bad and the actual print times are usually half that of the Prusa and sometimes better than that.
Being able to print easily removable supports is really quite liberating. I've been printing PETG models with supports that use PLA as an interface material and they come off really easily. I've spent inordinate amounts of time in the past designing stuff such that it doesn't need supports (often requiring parts to be printed in multiple pieces that dovetail together). The PLA-interface supports come off so easily that I can see me using them much more often.
Changing filament is far easier. If I'd left a reel of filament on the Prusa and wanted to print with something else, the first step was to heat the nozzle up. Then I could change the filament and then start the next print. If I just wanted to store some filament away in a vacuum bag, again I needed to heat the nozzle up to remove the filament. As the H2D does filament changes automatically, it also retracts the filament at the end of the print and that means changing / storing filament is just a case of pulling it out of the AMS unit.
It's much more fussy about filament than the Prusa was. It prints the Bambu stuff really well, but the blue/grey coloured stuff I print with a lot seems to cause it all manner of issues. At first I tried to print it as if it were Bambu filament but it just got lots of nozzle clumping warnings (by the A.I. that looks at various on-board cameras) so I put it through a drying cycle (just in case that was the issue) and then tried the Generic PETG profile. That was a bit better but still got a few nozzle clumps (which have to be dealt with manually). I've only done one small print with Prusa's filament and that went okay but I can see that I'm going to have to pay more attention to filament settings than I ever have before (I used to just print everything on the Prusa PETG setting and that worked fine), especially seeing as Bambu's filament seems to be mostly out of stock.
That photo above is probably the worst looking print I've done in years. I've had a (much, much) lesser version of that effect when I've tried to use filament that needed drying. This is a bit different, however. Firstly, I'd only just put the filament through Bambu's 12 hour drying cycle, so I would really hope it didn't need drying. Secondly, all of those wispy bits were loose. When I've printed with damp filaments, the wispy bits were attached to the printed part and needed to be rubbed off. In this case, they were lying on top of it and needed to be swept up.
Another change from the Prusa is that I'm going to have to get into printer calibration, which is something I've never really had to think about. As an example, I print loads of models with 8 × 3 mm magnets superglued into the print. With the Prusa, I'd just model an 8 mm diameter hole in CAD and then press the magnet into the hole in the resulting print. It was a tight fit (so in some cases it probably didn't need superglue) but went in with just a little pressure. On the H2D, pushing a magnet into an 8 mm hole resulted in the printed part breaking and it was a bit too tight even with an 8.1 mm hole.
The photo above is a quick dimension test print I did to see how it got on with holes and shafts. The holes start at 2 mm diameter and go up to 20 mm. All are at nominal size, as are the "shafts", which are the same dimension as the hole. Having wrestled them off the build plate (and lost the 2 mm and 3 mm shaft in the process as they pinged off somewhere unknown), I measured them all and they're all approximately 0.3 mm under-size.
As the shafts and holes are the same amount under-size, they do fit together quite nicely:
However, that isn't much help when you're trying to fit with things from the outside world. I measured the outside dimensions of the block and that was about 0.3 mm small as well, so I printed these two 100 mm long blocks to see how they came out:
The X one is 99.65 mm long and the Y one is 99.75 mm long, so as a percentage it's not that bad. I'm now experimenting with some settings to see what difference they make. You can tweak the "shrinkage" value for a particular filament and I think that helps with overall size (although for 0.3% I think I'll leave that for now). You can also play with some X-Y compensation values, of which there are three:
The latter one is marked as an experimental feature and it does seem to help. Printing the hole/shaft test model resulted in everything being much closer to nominal. The holes varied a bit but were typically about 0.1 mm over size. The shafts were about 0.1 mm under size with a little ridge (probably from the layer transition seam) on one side taking them to 0.1 mm over size. The result of all that is that the shafts are a relatively loose but retained fit in the holes and the holes are an okay size for pushing magnets into.
The down-side of that setting is it apparently only works for Bambu filaments and not even all of the ones that Bambu offer.
The Prusa was pretty much spot on out of the box (well, after I'd assembled the kit anyway!) so this is all extra faff to me, but hopefully it'll be worth it in the end.
It's a lot faster than the Prusa, especially when you print with Bambu filament. The slicer is a little optimistic in timing (whereas the Prusa was generally right to within about 5 minutes, even on a multi-day print), but it's not too bad and the actual print times are usually half that of the Prusa and sometimes better than that.
Being able to print easily removable supports is really quite liberating. I've been printing PETG models with supports that use PLA as an interface material and they come off really easily. I've spent inordinate amounts of time in the past designing stuff such that it doesn't need supports (often requiring parts to be printed in multiple pieces that dovetail together). The PLA-interface supports come off so easily that I can see me using them much more often.
Changing filament is far easier. If I'd left a reel of filament on the Prusa and wanted to print with something else, the first step was to heat the nozzle up. Then I could change the filament and then start the next print. If I just wanted to store some filament away in a vacuum bag, again I needed to heat the nozzle up to remove the filament. As the H2D does filament changes automatically, it also retracts the filament at the end of the print and that means changing / storing filament is just a case of pulling it out of the AMS unit.
It's much more fussy about filament than the Prusa was. It prints the Bambu stuff really well, but the blue/grey coloured stuff I print with a lot seems to cause it all manner of issues. At first I tried to print it as if it were Bambu filament but it just got lots of nozzle clumping warnings (by the A.I. that looks at various on-board cameras) so I put it through a drying cycle (just in case that was the issue) and then tried the Generic PETG profile. That was a bit better but still got a few nozzle clumps (which have to be dealt with manually). I've only done one small print with Prusa's filament and that went okay but I can see that I'm going to have to pay more attention to filament settings than I ever have before (I used to just print everything on the Prusa PETG setting and that worked fine), especially seeing as Bambu's filament seems to be mostly out of stock.
That photo above is probably the worst looking print I've done in years. I've had a (much, much) lesser version of that effect when I've tried to use filament that needed drying. This is a bit different, however. Firstly, I'd only just put the filament through Bambu's 12 hour drying cycle, so I would really hope it didn't need drying. Secondly, all of those wispy bits were loose. When I've printed with damp filaments, the wispy bits were attached to the printed part and needed to be rubbed off. In this case, they were lying on top of it and needed to be swept up.
Another change from the Prusa is that I'm going to have to get into printer calibration, which is something I've never really had to think about. As an example, I print loads of models with 8 × 3 mm magnets superglued into the print. With the Prusa, I'd just model an 8 mm diameter hole in CAD and then press the magnet into the hole in the resulting print. It was a tight fit (so in some cases it probably didn't need superglue) but went in with just a little pressure. On the H2D, pushing a magnet into an 8 mm hole resulted in the printed part breaking and it was a bit too tight even with an 8.1 mm hole.
The photo above is a quick dimension test print I did to see how it got on with holes and shafts. The holes start at 2 mm diameter and go up to 20 mm. All are at nominal size, as are the "shafts", which are the same dimension as the hole. Having wrestled them off the build plate (and lost the 2 mm and 3 mm shaft in the process as they pinged off somewhere unknown), I measured them all and they're all approximately 0.3 mm under-size.
As the shafts and holes are the same amount under-size, they do fit together quite nicely:
However, that isn't much help when you're trying to fit with things from the outside world. I measured the outside dimensions of the block and that was about 0.3 mm small as well, so I printed these two 100 mm long blocks to see how they came out:
The X one is 99.65 mm long and the Y one is 99.75 mm long, so as a percentage it's not that bad. I'm now experimenting with some settings to see what difference they make. You can tweak the "shrinkage" value for a particular filament and I think that helps with overall size (although for 0.3% I think I'll leave that for now). You can also play with some X-Y compensation values, of which there are three:
- X-Y hole compensation
- X-Y contour compensation
- Auto circle contour-hole compensation
The latter one is marked as an experimental feature and it does seem to help. Printing the hole/shaft test model resulted in everything being much closer to nominal. The holes varied a bit but were typically about 0.1 mm over size. The shafts were about 0.1 mm under size with a little ridge (probably from the layer transition seam) on one side taking them to 0.1 mm over size. The result of all that is that the shafts are a relatively loose but retained fit in the holes and the holes are an okay size for pushing magnets into.
The down-side of that setting is it apparently only works for Bambu filaments and not even all of the ones that Bambu offer.
The Prusa was pretty much spot on out of the box (well, after I'd assembled the kit anyway!) so this is all extra faff to me, but hopefully it'll be worth it in the end.
MattF
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Tolerances do seem to vary quite a bit across printers. I printed a DeWalt battery holder the other day. I believe @Onoff? had posted the link, a while back, & said he'd had to print it at 102% for a good fit. I did it at that size, & it was a sloppy fit. Original size is perfect, (printed two more at 100% & 101%), according to the chap I printed it for.
Kram
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Interesting, what is the blue/grey?
I've had no issues with the CC3D dark blue, and the Esun black and white.
I have not tried any Bambu filament yet.
Tollerances will depend on shrinkage, the filament and settings used for it, and likely to vary again with printing speed.
That raises the question, do you model the part with clearances in mind or exactly to size, then scale it. Some features may need different scaling..?
Onoff
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Wasn't us here. Different materials & filament makes print different letters alone settings.
Dr.Al
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This stuff: https://amzn.to/4rsXm6J
I'm learning that now. In all the time I had the Prusa, I never once thought about such things: the default profiles just worked for any PETG I used.
Generally exactly to size and no scaling. With the Prusa I could generally trust that it would be accurate enough to the CAD model that no scaling or clearances were required. If I wanted two parts to be a loose fit, then obviously I'd have to allow some tolerance but for a tight but not too hard to push together fit, 0 clearance worked fine.
Kram
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I have some of their other petg and it prints without issues, but particually your one and some colours of their ABS have some bad reviews. I am thinking they might have had bad batches but it doesnt explain why your prussa was ok with it. Try printing it on 50% silent speed, perhaps it cant flow well e ough for higher speeds
Try some Esun?
Dr.Al
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No idea. I must have put about 20 kg of that stuff through the Prusa and never had an issue.
At the moment I'm trying some Deeplee stuff from the black Friday sale on Amazon. I wanted a pale colour and the only Bambu stuff I'd been able to get was quite dark. This stuff was recommended somewhere or other as a good drop-in replacement for Bambu filament. It's looking promising so far:
That's using the standard Bambu PETG-HF profile so nice and fast.
It comes on a cardboard reel, which isn't recommended by Bambu for the AMS, but it was quite easy to (carefully) peel off the sides of the reel and drop the Bambu spool around the inner cardboard core. I'm glad it's working okay, I bought 12 kg of the stuff (4 kg of grey, 8 of black, 2 of white) - it worked out as £8 a reel on average, which seemed pretty good to me for a high speed PETG.
Dr.Al
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It's been a while since I've posted on this thread but I've been using the printer a lot (447 hours so far according to the printer information). I thought it was a good time to write up my thoughts on the printer so far.
There's lots to like about it and I'm certainly not getting buyer's remorse, but there are a few strong niggles.
This is a long post (split into three because of hitting the forum character limit), so if you're interested, grab a cup of tea or coffee and read on!
It's big! I've already printed quite a few things that are at the limit of the size of this new printer and for some of them there's no way that I would have been able to print them with the old printer (even in multiple pieces as the models wouldn't be suitable).
It's fast for big models! There are quite a few models that I never would have attempted on the other printer just because it would have taken so long (arguably increasing the chance of something going wrong).
For really small models it can be slower than the Prusa (due to the 10 minutes of pre-flight checks it does on every print).
It's very quick to change nozzles (although nowhere near as quick as the Bambu instructions imply - if you follow their instructions the nozzles won't come out). That means I don't think twice about printing with bigger nozzles (thereby speeding up printing further). On the Prusa I had to re-do the first layer calibration after changing nozzles so I only did it when absolutely necessary.
It's quieter than the Prusa. With the Prusa running in the dining room, we'd generally shut the dining room to keep the noise down, but we don't always bother with the Bambu one. I think this is mainly just because it's in an enclosure rather than being an open printer, so I'm sure it could have been resolved on the Prusa.
The multi-material capability is useful. I've printed quite a few things with supports (using PLA as an interface material on the PETG prints). I generally did everything I could to avoid supports on the Prusa because it was a pain cleaning them off but being able to add supports has offered some useful design freedom.
It's got a laser! I really like being able to laser engrave my logo on the bottom of wood projects. I've also used it to cut a few parts; I'm not sure how much I'll use that in the long term, but we'll see.
More in the next post as this was too many characters for the forum....
There's lots to like about it and I'm certainly not getting buyer's remorse, but there are a few strong niggles.
This is a long post (split into three because of hitting the forum character limit), so if you're interested, grab a cup of tea or coffee and read on!
The Good Stuff:
Size
It's big! I've already printed quite a few things that are at the limit of the size of this new printer and for some of them there's no way that I would have been able to print them with the old printer (even in multiple pieces as the models wouldn't be suitable).
Speed
It's fast for big models! There are quite a few models that I never would have attempted on the other printer just because it would have taken so long (arguably increasing the chance of something going wrong).
For really small models it can be slower than the Prusa (due to the 10 minutes of pre-flight checks it does on every print).
Nozzles
It's very quick to change nozzles (although nowhere near as quick as the Bambu instructions imply - if you follow their instructions the nozzles won't come out). That means I don't think twice about printing with bigger nozzles (thereby speeding up printing further). On the Prusa I had to re-do the first layer calibration after changing nozzles so I only did it when absolutely necessary.
Noise
It's quieter than the Prusa. With the Prusa running in the dining room, we'd generally shut the dining room to keep the noise down, but we don't always bother with the Bambu one. I think this is mainly just because it's in an enclosure rather than being an open printer, so I'm sure it could have been resolved on the Prusa.
Multi-Material
The multi-material capability is useful. I've printed quite a few things with supports (using PLA as an interface material on the PETG prints). I generally did everything I could to avoid supports on the Prusa because it was a pain cleaning them off but being able to add supports has offered some useful design freedom.
Laser
It's got a laser! I really like being able to laser engrave my logo on the bottom of wood projects. I've also used it to cut a few parts; I'm not sure how much I'll use that in the long term, but we'll see.
More in the next post as this was too many characters for the forum....
Dr.Al
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Mediocre
These are the the things I consider to be bad, but resolvable:
Build Plate
The build plate that came with it was awful. Anything with a wipe tower, anything with supports or anything small was a complete nightmare to remove from the build plate. In one case I tried all sorts of things (including chilling the plate) but the last few bits ended up having to be removed with a hot air gun and a brass brush. I also dislike the rough texture left on the bottom of parts printed on the stock plate. I've resolved this one by buying two build plates from Oseq in the Czech Republic. They're miles better and very similar in performance to the Prusa satin plate I'm used to.
IP Security
I dislike the fact that the default setting is to send files from my laptop to the printer via a server in China. I've put the printer into LAN-only mode (and also developer mode) to disable that functionality.
Bambu Handy (mobile app)
The Bambu Handy mobile app is pretty awful (and doesn't work if you put the printer in LAN-only mode, but that's no great loss). Having got used to OctoApp (a mobile app for Octoprint) on the Prusa, Bambu Handy seemed like a major backwards step. It's flaky (video feeds often produce an error) and the notification with the end time can be easily dismissed and can't be retrieved without starting a new print.
Error notifications (e.g. out of filament) sometimes only pop up several hours after the error has occurred (and sometimes only when you happen to start the next print!). However, when you're doing a laser cutting job, it pops up a "Task Success" notification for every job, including calibration and measuring steps, so you get a ridiculous number of notifications.
Bambu Handy also drains the mobile phone battery really quickly.
I've resolved this one by setting up OctoApp, which I discovered works with Bambu printers as well (albeit requiring a raspberry pi or other linux server on the network).
Accuracy
There are a few aspects to this. The first is print accuracy. Out of the box, the printer (and the Bambu Studio slicer) doesn't print things in the size you expect. On the Prusa, if I wanted a hole for an 8 mm magnet, I'd model an 8 mm hole. If I do that with the Bambu printer (and the default settings), the magnet won't fit.
There are a few relevant settings in the slicer, in particular:
- X-Y hole compensation
- X-Y contour compensation
- Auto circle contour-hole compensation
These have to be used to get parts to be the right size. Not a big deal, but Prusa had sorted this all out for me so I never had to think about it before.
Slicer
Bambu Slicer has a rather laughable (but apparently intentional) bug. If you have your printer in LAN-only mode, you have to tell it the printer's IP address and "Access Code" every single time you restart Bambu Studio. Having dug into it, it does save the access code in a file in the configuration directory, it just doesn't read it back. It doesn't save the IP address anywhere.
According to Bambu this is because of "privacy concerns regarding storing IP addresses". Absolutely ridiculous.
I've put up with this for a while (and learnt the IP address and access code off by heart having typed them in so many times), but I've now switched to Orcaslicer, which does remember the information. I had to use the "Nightly build" (i.e. bleeding edge development version) as the stable releases don't support the H2D. I also had to change the network settings in Orcaslicer to get round an issue with it being unable to send files to the printer.
Bambu Studio also has a bug where it'll sometimes think the printer is busy even though it obviously isn't. Orcaslicer also does this sometimes so I think it's a bug in the (common) Bambu network plug-in. The solution to this is to restart the slicer at which point it realises what's going on.
The other software (for the laser function) "Bambu Suite", is buggy and crashes regularly.
Timing Accuracy
On the Prusa printer, if the slicer told me a print was going to take (say) 18 hours and 35 minutes, I could be pretty confident of the finish time, to within about ±5 minutes.
On the Bambu, everything takes at least 10 minutes longer than claimed (because it doesn't include the pre-flight checks in the time estimation and they take about 10 minutes) and even after that, the estimations aren't that great. A 30 minute print might take 35 minutes after the pre-flight checks, but a 12 hour one is likely to be 12½ hours. Not a big deal, but having got used to printing sequences of prints with care being taken to ensure the switch-over time was (e.g.) just before I went to work in the morning, I now have to add a bit more tolerance into that calculation.
Print Failures
I've definitely had more print failures with the H2D than I had with the Prusa. Part of this is probably that I'm doing more ambitious things with the printer (printing bigger stuff and using supports). Some of this is that the clever auto-monitoring features (using A.I. to detect print failures) is a bit over-sensitive and sometimes reports false errors (so you have to manually tell it to resume).
It's not the end of the world, but can be a bit frustrating when you've printed something overnight and expect it to be finished in the morning but it's actually stopped with several hours left to go due to a false positive error check.
The Closed Ecosystem
The Prusa printer was eminently upgradeable and tweak-able, in fact it's part of the Prusa philosophy in general. The Bambu printer isn't. In most situations, this doesn't matter but it's a bit annoying at times. If you load non-Bambu filament into the "AMS" filament box, you have to manually tell it what that filament is. Not a big deal, but a little tedious.
For the Deeplee stuff, I generally add one of the Bambu RFID tags to the reel when I'm ripping the cardboard sides off and fitting the Bambu outer spool. That way, the printer thinks it's got Bambu filament even though it isn't (that's fine for the Deeplee filament as it works really well with the Bambu filament profile). It would be nice if the AMS would support open RFID tags and then you could auto-detect other filaments. There are work-arounds for this, but I haven't decided yet whether I can be bothered with them!
More in the next post...
Dr.Al
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The Bad
Filament
It seems to be really fussy with PETG filament. With the Prusa I could print pretty much any PETG with no issues at all. On the H2D, I can print Bambu filament and Deeplee Grey filament (I've also tried their black, which works but is a bit glossy for my taste) but others I've tried seem to cause it issues.
Admittedly I haven't tried very many others, but I've tried the CC3D filament I used a lot on the Prusa and I've also tried the Prusa filament. Both give similar results with any of the profiles I've tried (including Bambu's one, the Generic PETG one and a Prusament-specific one for the Bambu X1C I found on the web).
A typical result of a print with these filaments is this one, with Prusament filament:
Photo of the same print after removing from the printer:
Not great (I reprinted that part using Bambu filament and it worked fine).
Simple parts seem to print okay; it's only more complicated ones that cause problems:
I'm sure there are settings that can be tweaked in the slicer to sort this out, but I haven't figured out what they are yet and I struggle to get the enthusiasm together to spend the time testing things (I see the printer as a tool rather than a hobby in itself and I'd rather just have it work).
I tried printing a "torture test" with Prusament using the Generic PETG profile (which is much slower than the Bambu one) to see if I could work out what setting I needed to investigate. The print failed (with an extrusion motor overload error) before it had even finished printing the base.
At the moment, I'm just sticking to Bambu filament (which is quite hard to get hold of as they seem to be permanently out of stock) and Deeplee grey filament, along with the Bambu PLA, but that's only used as a support interface, so one reel will last me a very long time.
Laser Birds-Eye Camera
The laser is set up using a built-in camera, which takes a photograph of the workpiece upon which you place the thing you want to engrave/cut. It's not very accurate. It has a special "birds eye camera calibration" sequence, but that doesn't help much.
I think the problem is probably that it suffers badly from parallax; it's probably been designed assuming that the only things it will be used with is 3 mm plywood sheet. If you put something big in there (like a box or a bowl you want to engrave) then the results are very, very inaccurate.
This has caught me out on a number of occasions. On one, I wanted to add a date underneath a logo that I'd previously added to a box using a branding iron. I positioned the text of the date neatly underneath the logo and then ran the engraving sequence. This was the result:
Now I'll have to try to remove that mark (which is going to be non-trivial given it's on the recessed part of a box) and do the whole thing again.
My work-around for this in general is to use the variable-height mapping feature to measure the part. I can then position the logo relative to the height changes. However, there's no way (in Bambu Suite) to go back to the photo and check it looks right after you've done the height mapping process.
Kram
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Please do you have a photo of some parts with the satin finish plate? I might be tempted to get one for the P2S. The textured does leave it a bit rough.
You certainly have some issue with the petg settings or printer calibration thats not normal! Temperatures might be off? sensors loose connection?
What temperatures are you using for bed and nozzle on petg? Bed looks 20c too hot and nozzle 20c too cold!
80c bed and 260c nozzle works well here. I've not used Bambu's filament as its expensive, but four different brands and 10 (part) rolls of petg without issues.
I did have some issue with ABS, perhaps worsened by a fireware update that adjusted the fan settings. The side fan blows direct at the bed, chilling the part. Horrible first layers. I added this white 45 degree deflector yesterday and seems to fix that.
You certainly have some issue with the petg settings or printer calibration
thats not normal! Temperatures might be off? sensors loose connection?What temperatures are you using for bed and nozzle on petg? Bed looks 20c too hot and nozzle 20c too cold!
80c bed and 260c nozzle works well here. I've not used Bambu's filament as its expensive, but four different brands and 10 (part) rolls of petg without issues.
I did have some issue with ABS, perhaps worsened by a fireware update that adjusted the fan settings. The side fan blows direct at the bed, chilling the part. Horrible first layers. I added this white 45 degree deflector yesterday and seems to fix that.
Dr.Al
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I'll take some photos later and post them.
You certainly have some issue with the petg settings or printer calibration
Maybe, but it seems odd that it prints perfectly with the Deeplee / Bambu filament if there's a faulty sensor.
Just the defaults for the printer. I might be mis-remembering, but I think the bed was 70°C and the nozzle about 230°C to 245°C. Don't draw any conclusions from those numbers though: it's just from vague memory. On the Prusa I think the nozzle was 250°C for the first layer and then 230 or 240°C after that (or perhaps the other way round).
Despite having had a printer for a few years now, printing profiles aren't something I've put a lot of thought/effort into before now. The Prusa just worked so I left pretty much everything on the default settings. It's only since getting the Bambu that I'm having to come to terms with the fact I might need to tweak things.
I don't find the price of the Bambu filament that bad (at £9.72 per reel), but then I've only bought it in the bulk sales (which they seem to have been doing pretty much continuously since I bought the printer). I don't think I'd buy it at the full price. The Deeplee stuff is a little cheaper at £9.13 but it's not that big a difference. There don't seem to be many options for matt filament out there (eSUN looks promising but is more expensive than Bambu or Deeplee; the Deeplee black stuff isn't matt).
The main issue I have with Bambu is that they never seem to have much stock.
I still haven't got round to trying ABS or ASA.
