Freelander

[HughF]

Probably worth getting a K series locking tool (aluminium extrusion) that you slide between the cam pulleys. I didn't have one and remembered wishing I did.

 

[Robotstar5]

Probably worth getting a K series locking tool (aluminium extrusion) that you slide between the cam pulleys. I didn't have one and remembered wishing I did.

Useful tool and doesn't cost much compared with getting it wrong.

 

[HughF]

The marks are with both cams 'on cam' so you need about 6 hands to get the belt on, I remember struggling like a bastard for a while and wishing I had the aluminium thingy. Not enough clearance for mole grips on the pulleys iirc.

 

[Kayos]

Yeah they are set at 90 deg btdc so I imagine the cams will want to move

Some engines you can get away with it, but for £8 I've just ordered one

 

[octo0072000]

change the rad sounds like it's blocked up they don't have a lot of water in them at best

 

[octo0072000]

The marks are with both cams 'on cam' so you need about 6 hands to get the belt on, I remember struggling like a bastard for a while and wishing I had the aluminium thingy. Not enough clearance for mole grips on the pulleys iirc.

cut a bit of wood to go between the cam pulleys to lock them

 

[HughF]

Genius idea...

 

[Kayos]

So today it began.

Not loads of pictures due to poor weather but managed a few

Head stripped off

Freelander-10 by Stuart Burrows, on Flickr

Gasket not in great shape tbh

Freelander-11 by Stuart Burrows, on Flickr

Can see on the pistons where the water has been getting in

Freelander-12 by Stuart Burrows, on Flickr

Freelander-14 by Stuart Burrows, on Flickr

After much cleaning the new gasket is on

Freelander-16 by Stuart Burrows, on Flickr

I got the head bolted on but had to stop at that as the anearobic sealant i ordered didn't turn up

Its hard to say if the gasket has ever been done, the updated engine should have the multilayer one, but I've gone for the single piece multilayer one, so no seperate shim

 

[normspanners]

Have you had head skimmed and pressure tested ? that is a MUST.
IMO the best gaskets now are black multi layer with head saver, its what I always use and have done literally hundreds over the years used to do 2-3 a week the problem with that red bit around the periphery is if not careful it comes out, and you have a leak.

 

[normspanners]

To hold the cams you can use long nose vice grips GENTLY with a jaw in lip of each pulley.
set the cam tensioner slightly on the slack side with the engine cold, dont be tempted to put it on the tight side, because the block grows upwards when warm and overtightens the belt, and makes it noisey.

 

[HughF]

What Norm said... MLS gasket with head saver and you must have it skimmed...

 

[octo0072000]

Make sure you measure the liner heights liners should be proud of the block not level with it
that's the main fault the liners sink as well as the radiators don't hold enough water so slightist silt up in the rad and under hill climbing will cause it to boil up

 

[Kayos]

Liners all proud, the gasket is multilayer but no head saver, that was the type I removed that had delaminated and failed hence fitting the other multilayer type

 

[HughF]

The ones with the painted on silicone sealant fail all the time - I had one leaking oil from the front of the block/head interface... I would have used the black type of MLS gasket personally.

 

[Kayos]

Less of an update and more of a whinge

The anaerobic sealant i need for the cam ladder STILL hasn't arrived
Its as built as possible without the sealant, i've even flushed the rad and filled it with coolant, only bled it twice so far so thats another job for tomorrow

 

[HughF]

I used wellseal on my cam ladder... on recommendation from my engine shop who did a lot of 1.8K's

 

[Kayos]

I've ordered some Loctite 574 as recommended by the cylinder head place

 

[normspanners]

Wellseal is what I use and most good engine builders/reconers you must not use sealant that will go 'OFF' because it seals up the oil ways to the cams and cambuckets I have NEVER had a leak using it, and as I said I have done literally hundreds. I also use it in all the MLS gaskets and force it in with my thumb around where the oil feed goes from the block through the gasket to help seal because high oil pressure can force its way out at the head /block interface
wellseal is the best because it doesnt go hard or set and is easy to remove if the cam ladder has to come off.
https://www.cromwell.co.uk/HRM7202291M?gclid=CMGLn6GfrMkCFYIIwwodAbUEqQ.
MY view is anything that cures is a no go. K series cam buckets are bad enough without putting sealer into the mix

 

[Kayos]

It doesn't go off unless it's where it's meant to be, that's why it's anaerobic

 

[normspanners]

Well there isnt a lot of air in cam buckets and because that is where the sealer ends up, because most of the oilways lead to the buckets, it is a virtual dead end, so the cured sealer can be stuck in there, the only way oil escapes is when it gets very hot and oozes out but the sealer doesn't wellseal stays fluid and can travel out with the oil. IMO.
My engine man Eric Hammond is a very well respected expert and he will only use wellseal for K series.
As said before I've sorted loads of em, that have been plastered with sealer, But it is up to you my friend. I'm not in competition just trying to help.