Found a mill!

  1. EddyP

    EddyP Member

    Messages:
    482
    Location:
    Northants
    I’ve been after a mill for a couple of months and annoyingly missed out on some great deals on eBay but I finally managed to find myself one, went to pick it up the other night but haven’t done much else yet as can’t lift for a week due to having a lumber puncture yesterday. Itching to get it in the workshop and start cleaning it up.
    Needs a bit of TLC and rewiring then would like to fit a DRO. There’s quite a bit of backlash in the X and Y axis, looks like it’s the nuts loose rather than play in the thread though.
    Wondering if I should repaint it before reassembly.... 1D166EFB-3CDD-4C8C-B3EA-59E39500F760.jpeg

    Need to have a little move around for it to fit here in its new home. 9C5706ED-86E2-408D-83B9-544A67A7881D.jpeg
     
    Stupoty, Hopefuldave, zx9 and 4 others like this.
  2. Kram

    Kram Member

    Messages:
    1,275
    Location:
    Sussex
    What is it? Looks a decent size tho half of it seems to be missing from your pic?
     
  3. EddyP

    EddyP Member

    Messages:
    482
    Location:
    Northants
    It’s a chester 626, the turret is in the boot of the car :laughing:
     
  4. RobCox

    RobCox Member

    Messages:
    111
    Location:
    Cambridge, UK
    If you don't paint it now, once you've started using it, you never will...
     
  5. EddyP

    EddyP Member

    Messages:
    482
    Location:
    Northants
    Made a bit if progress tonight when a pal gave over to give some lifting help.
    Cleaned some rust off the Z way with a stone and gave it all a clean with some WD, the paint is better than I thought so just needs touching up really, if I can find a colour match...

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    Shocking finish in some places, you’d think they could have at least dressed the casting a little.

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    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  6. spencer 427 Member

    Messages:
    6,924
    Location:
    uk colchester
    I would have to sort the rough castings. Catch ya hand or wrist on it and it will open you up...
     
  7. EddyP

    EddyP Member

    Messages:
    482
    Location:
    Northants
    I agree, I'll be cleaning that one up when I start to rewire it.
     
  8. Agroshield Member

    Messages:
    796
    For domestic wall paint, you can take your chosen sample piece into B&Q, sit it on their machine and it will mix the paint to suit.

    If you go to a decent car paint store, they may have the same technology, or a RAL or similar sample book.
     
  9. EddyP

    EddyP Member

    Messages:
    482
    Location:
    Northants
    Our local auto paint place can match, ideally I'd like an enamel. I'm lucky to have an amazing scrap man round the corner that also has a really good shop, get my welding wire etc from him (even on a Sunday afternoon!) He's got some grey tractor enamels, hoping one will be a pretty close match.

    Just been having a bit of a play with the mill, the casting is surprisingly hard, maybe that's why they didn't bother to clean it up!

    When I bought it I knew there was quite a bit of back lash on the X and Y axis, it's not wear on the screws though there seems to be play between the nut and the main casting, not sure if this is due to crap machining on the nuts or if there's a bolt retaining them that should be tight and has come loose, should the bolt be tight or is the nut supposed to "float"?
    Anyone had one of these apart?
     
  10. EddyP

    EddyP Member

    Messages:
    482
    Location:
    Northants
     
  11. slimjim Member

    Messages:
    1,116
    UK Cumbria
    I have the same mill,

    But I fitted a 150mm riser and longer screw,


    @doubleboost has one and refurbished his with a video of it on YouTube, and done quite a few modifications to it

    Is it metric or imperial?

    In the casting should be a transformer for the light on the side,

    Mine was blown, and replaced by a stand alone 12v transformer.
     
    Hopefuldave likes this.
  12. EddyP

    EddyP Member

    Messages:
    482
    Location:
    Northants
    It came with a riser too, was one of the attractions to this one, but I don't think the screw is longer, I'll wait and see if it gives me an issue or not. It's a metric one but I'm going to fit a DRO anyway, which will eliminate the backlash issue although it would be nice to resolve it.
    The light on mine seems to be 240V, looks like someone has made a GU10 lamp fit inside it, haven't looked closely at it yet. I'm probably going to try and fit a 110V transformer for the power feed into the casting rather than using a 110V site transformer like has been used to date.

    I've been watching John's videos they're good! How much back lash is on yours? I've got almost a full half turn!
     
  13. fizzy Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    6,215
    uk
    Looks like the bolt holding down the cross slide nut is loose - if it has one!
     
  14. fizzy Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    6,215
    uk

    Backlash doesnt matter at all if you fit a DRO!
     
  15. EddyP

    EddyP Member

    Messages:
    482
    Location:
    Northants
    That's what I was thinking, not sure if the bolt is supposed to be tight or nipped, I thought the cross slide nut is supposed to float a bit?

    Quite agree, but it would be nice to improve it anyway if it's possible.
     
  16. fizzy Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    6,215
    uk
    On my lathe cross slide - which is very similar - it is bolted down tight. It could be that it will bind though if you do that so it might need shims underneath.
     
    EddyP likes this.
  17. Hopefuldave Intergalactic pot-mender

    Messages:
    1,597
    Location:
    The Shed of Danger, surrey, England
    It matters if you're climb milling! the cutter will pull the work in as far as the backlash lets it, fastest way there is to shatter a carbide endmill - don't ask...

    Dave H. (the other one)
     
    zx9, fizzy and EddyP like this.
  18. EddyP

    EddyP Member

    Messages:
    482
    Location:
    Northants
    Stripped it down a bit more. There is a bolt that retains the nut, it was a little loose, was also made from cheese and cut badly with lots of play on the thread. Swapped for a decent bolt, all cleaned up and even with it tight there’s play, the spigot of the nut is slightly proud through the knee, allowing it to move. Wonder about cutting a shim to fit over the spigot of the nut, between the nut and the knee to take up some of the play. You can see the quality of the castings here too.

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    AB45C2ED-B0B6-4B20-AED3-3751C02FCC62.jpeg
     
    fizzy likes this.
  19. fizzy Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    6,215
    uk

    Imagine paying over £2000 for a new one - wouldn't be happy!
     
    Hopefuldave likes this.
  20. Agroshield Member

    Messages:
    796
    You have to determine the correct height for the nut to know the correct solution.

    If the distance from the nut centreline to the shoulder is too short, a shim will do well. If this distance is correct (so the shoulder should touch the knee), you will have to shorten the spigot or shim under its securing washer.

    Shimming the wrong side of the problem will deflect the leadscrew.
     
    EddyP likes this.
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