ford 3000 tractor

[MM6CMC]

I was playing with some old tractors a few weeks ago, got roped into stripping the engine in an old Ford (1950s vintage?) - I'd love one of my own to play with.

If they weren't so bloody expensive and collectable I'd have one. Beats any classic car or Landie any day. I think there would be nothing better than going to the shops for a paper on a Suday morning at 3mph on an old Ford.

 

[Bigjoe]

I'll second that

 

[Charred fingers]

I think those 3 pot fords have an excess fuel button on the pump

 

[clem dog]

When i worked on agricultural stuff it was considered that when an engine got to around 4000 hours it was at the point where it was starting to get a bit of wear and tear.

So as you say compression/ injectors etc.

That would be the norm for older stuff right enough.

Although I do know of a 77 40 with over 20,000 on the clock and never a wrench on it Still starts on the button. Starting to blow a little when worked hard. Although its no shame really.

Oilcooled, my first port of call would be injectors, then the pump. failing that its pistons, rings, liners and maybe get the head skimmed, and valves done.

Clem

 

[Bsmith]

http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/1123103-ford-3000-tractor-parts-assembly-manual
There are assembly manuals above, surely they will include the valve clearances. If its any help the valve clearances on the MF35 and MF65 are 12 thou. I don't think there are liners in the Ford engines, if the bores are worn (usually oval) the only remedy is to have the block rebored and fit over size pistons.
Ford engines as a rule are really heavy to start with the cold weather, draining the cooling system and refilling with hot water helps greatly. I do not like the easy start idea either, better to get your heater working and use it.
I could service your injectors but I'm sure you will get it done nearer to where you are.

 

[KTMMICK]

it is an old wives tale that once you use easy start you always have to use it.
ive heard people say the engine becomes used to it.
what a load of rubbish its a lump of metal what does happen is that the original starting problem just keeps getting worse.
so it progresses from needing it when its cold to everytime you start it until it starts no more without some mechanical work to repair what should have been repaired in the first place.
phew im out of breath now

It is because it cleans the bores and reduces the compression.....so it is not an old wives tale!

 

[wyn]

Ford engines as a rule are really heavy to start with the cold weather, draining the cooling system and refilling with hot water helps greatly.

One place i used to go to had a self propelled sprayer with an air cooled Deutz engine. If the weather was a bit nippy he would pour a bucket of hot water over the engine to get it to start.

 

[snowcat]

One place i used to go to had a self propelled sprayer with an air cooled Deutz engine. If the weather was a bit nippy he would pour a bucket of hot water over the engine to get it to start.

bateman per chance?

Much of the equipment from the 1000 series days would be worn out within hrs at have work, County's in particular would Have very dubious transmissions by 2K.... thank Christ mfr technology has moved on.. 6K should present no problems even on heavy draft..

theres lots that could be wrong with the old girl, Id personally would suspect rings and linners...

your best source of info tho will be British farming Forum, prickly bunch very, but theres a whole vintage section, and a good few guys who really know there stuff rather than guess work...

 

[brightspark]

cant u do a compression check on it??and get the injectors tested??

 

[the snooper]

as its a compression ignition engine the compression test is where i would start.
the injectors could be spraying badly but if its lack of compression it would be wasted money getting them set up again.
it all depends on what he wants out of the tractor if he plans to keep it it could be worth rebuilding the engine anyway, bored out and new pistons, shell bearings, pump & injectors seviced and so on.
but at the end of the day its how much money he can afford to throw at it.

 

[oilcooled :)]

are ye saying there is a button on the fuel pump on starting?? i never checked ?

 

[wyn]

are ye saying there is a button on the fuel pump on starting?? i never checked ?

I think it's part of the pivot point of the arm that the stop cable connects to.

 

[oilcooled :)]

i must have a perve later :P

 

[metalspanner]

Ford 3000 may well have a excess fuel button on the stop cable control arm it may have a air pre-heater on it too, easy start is not the killer it is supposed to be if used in small quantities ie dont use a full can to start her once.
The air filter will no doubt be an oil bath type so inevitably you end up using a tad bit more, what we used to do in cold weather on the farm to get the old majors to start was to light a paper bag and hold that over the air intake (take the mushroom off the top first).
A question? does it loose water inexplicably and have no water in oil and vice-versa because these old ford blocks were notorious for being porus and if a bit of water is finding its way into a pot it could cause starting problems.
If it has stood in a shed for 20yrs and not moved in all that time you could have slightly worn bores and rings if there was a bit of rust caused by condensation, or there could be pitting on the liners, if she does not blow high volumes of black smoke then the compression and injectors will probably be fine, take a note of smoke colour at idle and full revs, and under load the chances of there being no noticable smoke is unlikely as these engines were renouned for looking like a traction engine coming up the road.
If there isnt, then it must be in fine fettle, white smoke that clears could well be water in the bores, the injectors could benefit from a service, change the fuel filters (if not done recently) ensure your diesel is clean and fresh, also check operation of the lift pump if this is below par then the correct amount of fuel wont reach the injector pump, it would be worth whilst the filters are off reverse flushing the supply down to the filters and lift pump, to clear any scale, rust paint etc and also to clear the tap body from the tank.
As a rough guide in the absence of a manual 10-12thou for the inlet and 12-14thou for the exhaust wont be far off the mark, but I would if possible find the correct setting,there are plenty of manuals for the 000 series, nice tractors enjoy.

 

[oilcooled :)]

i couldnt see any buttons on the pump, i sprayed it with wd i will clean it off tomorrro and have a closer look as it was black with grime. i wonder was there butttons on all models or maybe just later ones

 

[oilcooled :)]

http://www.brokentractor.com/images/CAV-PUMP.JPG

there is the pump cant see no button on stop arm on right. whats the white thing to the left of the nameplate, is it for bleeding after an airlock?

 

[wyn]

Ahh !!, i was thinking it was one of these pumps.

 

[scarecrow]

it's the same pump that is on my old digger which I had to replace last year with the slightly unusual problem of firing on all three cylinders when ticking over and only fired on two when revved up took a bit of head scratching to figure that one out. €250 for a reconditioned pump she's not the hardest in the world to start but then again she has a monster sized battery in her
the white thing on the left of the nameplate is just a cover over the connection for one of injectors and bleed screw is a small one just above the nameplate

 

[Charred fingers]

Ahh !!, i was thinking it was one of these pumps.

Thats the one I was on about, didn't realise they also fit CAV pumps

 

[oilcooled :)]

would the other pump fit on the tractor?