ford 3000 tractor

[oilcooled :)]

i have a 3000 3cylinder ford tractor but it brakes my heart to start it an always end up using easy start to get the iniitial firing, the tappetts need adjusting those anybody no the spacing for that engine in imperial if posible, i have a feeler gauge in the shed with a good 20 blades that all combine to give various gaps. can anyone help me. also to improve starting will getting the injectors set make any difference? i know theres an engine of gold there its only done 5000hrs from new, and spent 20 years of its life sitting in a shed when the previous owner immigrated (relation) we bought the tractor then off a him thanks and sorrry about the essay

 

[oilcooled :)]

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/2/5/259-ford-3000-engine.html

link

 

[Iain Westland]

how does it run?
check the fuels not returning to the tank
whats the clearance at the moment? its air cooled so gonna be bigger than a standard vehicle

 

[oilcooled :)]

runs ok but i can hear the tappets cliking, didnt open rocker cover so dnt no clearance, its water cooled not air cooled,

 

[Iain Westland]

does it sound like a bag of spanners after 20 mins running? have you flushed the engine oil?

 

[oilcooled :)]

if shes labouring hard it is a farly noticeable noise, ya do it regulary, makes no real differ

 

[wyn]

I always thought that once you've started using easy start on an engine you'll always have to use it for starting. To sort it out might need new liners/pstons/rings etc.

 

[Iain Westland]

Check the gaps see if they are all about the same,

 

[oilcooled :)]

i always thought that to be a wifes tale, nt sure tho, the engine is able to pull six tonne a sand up a fairly steep hill in third gear outta four no problem so i know the engine is as thight as a virgin

 

[the snooper]

it is an old wives tale that once you use easy start you always have to use it.
ive heard people say the engine becomes used to it.
what a load of rubbish its a lump of metal what does happen is that the original starting problem just keeps getting worse.
so it progresses from needing it when its cold to everytime you start it until it starts no more without some mechanical work to repair what should have been repaired in the first place.
phew im out of breath now

 

[the snooper]

does the induction pre heater work ?

 

[scarecrow]

all them three cylinder fords clatter quite a bit, probably wont improve it much by setting the tappets is there a heater plug on her also check the air filter you could try and advancing and timing on the pump a little by loosening the nuts holding on to pump and twisting it away from the tractor (i think) then tighten in its new position

 

[wyn]

it progresses from needing it when its cold to everytime you start it until it starts no more without some mechanical work to repair what should have been repaired in the first place.

So once you start using it you always have to use it....untill the mechanical problem is sorted.

 

[oilcooled :)]

there was an aftermarket heater plug fitted, but its pretty useless so we dont bother, because your not meant to use that with easy start. are you basically saying wind out the screws on the fuel pump scarecrow?

 

[oilcooled :)]

easy start is a quick solution, because farmer too lazy to carry out the work, but i think its awful bad for a engine? and thats why i wanna fix it. however some tractors like a 4 cylinder 35, you need easy start on a winters morning, or there is no hope of firing

 

[scarecrow]

there was an aftermarket heater plug fitted, but its pretty useless so we dont bother, because your not meant to use that with easy start. are you basically saying wind out the screws on the fuel pump scarecrow?

no don't take out the screws all you do it loosen them and you will be able to get some movement on the pump it won't be that much but can be enough to allow for wear on the chain and sprocket over the years

 

[the snooper]

So once you start using it you always have to use it....untill the mechanical problem is sorted.

it would seem that way.

it could be lack of compression.
injectors bad spray pattern / dripping
engine not turning over fast enough
injector pump lack of pressure

i know he said its done about 5000 hours but has the hour meter always worked / been connected ?
it will be a process of elimination but a compression test is a good place to start along with the injectors to make sure the spray pattern is good

 

[MrFluffy]

easy start is a quick solution, because farmer too lazy to carry out the work, but i think its awful bad for a engine? and thats why i wanna fix it. however some tractors like a 4 cylinder 35, you need easy start on a winters morning, or there is no hope of firing

It is in the quantities people squirt it in at, you should only need a sniffle
The old 3c jcb with the leyland tractor skid actually came from the factory with a "start pilot" system, which really was just a way to inject a measured amount of ether (ie easystart) with a plunger in the cab. Too much washes the bores on startup, hence the measuring plunger on the factory fitted system. They had no heater system at all and you only normally need the start pilot system on the coldest of days.

I have to start my 3c on easystart, but I strongly suspect a leak somewhere is letting in air into the fuel system as it started after I had to have all the system out to clean out after finding out the previous owner fitted a empty fuel filter canister in the worst possible way (ran low on diesel on a bank and pulled sludge into everything). Easiest way to check is to fit a clear section of pipe in the return to the tank and watch it for bubbles (which I currently have...) Once theyre going air leak or not, they usually run quite strongly if its only a tiny weep, its just that intial fire up thats a pain.

 

[wyn]

i know he said its done about 5000 hours but has the hour meter always worked / been connected ?

When i worked on agricultural stuff it was considered that when an engine got to around 4000 hours it was at the point where it was starting to get a bit of wear and tear.

So as you say compression/ injectors etc.

 

[brookie456]

no don't take out the screws all you do it loosen them and you will be able to get some movement on the pump it won't be that much but can be enough to allow for wear on the chain and sprocket over the years

Yup, injectors first, then pump. Local engine recon people should be able to crack off the injectors for a nominal fee. Water/muck contamination no good for diesel pumps, thankfully Ford 3cyls are fairly straightforward. Have you tried draining the tank and using some fresh derv (don't shoot, just an idea)? Oh, and good luck getting a farmer to overhaul fuel equipment...if you can do that, defeating the Death Star is a piece of p*ss