Fog 3 ton 4 post lift.

[Barking Mat]

I'm communicating with a local vendor of a 4 post, 3 ton, hydraulic lift.

Problem: oil seals to change on the rams.

Doable? Or run away?

It's 500 quid dismantled.

Thoughts please.

I know hydraulics, have three phase, never changed oil seals on them though, but job, doable or outsource quotes?

Or runaway, seem cheap enough to justify the same again in reconditioning costs?

Thoughts...

 

[James1979]

I have done ram seals and they’re not bad. Unless it’s a welded ram and you’ll need to turn the cap off and weld it back on. Only you can decide how easy that will be. You seem handy enough mind.

budget to replace / outsource and you’ve got worst case. If you don’t need to do either of those things then win

 

[Guzrik]

I am not a hydraulic specialist.
If it is only the seal I think it will be ok. But if the piston is worn it becomes another story of course.
I would check the piston over the whole length and diameter (take a mirror) anything more than a length scratch and any pitting is a serious drop in value.


I have a 3.5T Koni, didn't even look at the hydraulics when I bougth it , and it is the best tool I ever bougth.
If anything I would like it to be wider, my Ducato is 2.5 cm (sorry 1 inch) over the edge on both sides, making it a two man job to drive it on straigth with mirrors folded.

 

[Barking Mat]

I'm off to see it / buy it Friday.

 

[m_c]

Have a look, but it'll most likely use a single long ram that runs the length of the bed. Issue with long rams like this, is they often wear the nut, so although a new set of seals may stop the leak for a while, they won't last.

However, as long as the oil doesn't look as though it's been pouring out (some weepage is perfectly fine), and the mechanical interlocks are working how they should, then it could be a worthwhile purchase.

 

[armalites]

As @m_c says most likely it will have a big single ram operating the cables.

I changed the seals in my 4 post with a kit from the manufacturer, it has a bleed hole so I could see some oil coming out. If you can find a decent seals place it will probably cost you £15-30 tops. On mine the ram pulls in to lift. Be as careful as you can taking seals out as if they are old they will possibly break into little bits.

My two post has two rams and I just took the seals to a specialist, they had them in stock and it was £16 for both rams.

When changing the seals you need plenty of space IE twice the length of the ram. The rod will be heavy and the hardest part is getting back in the bore with the new seals. You need some way of holding the cylinder while you do that and and having an assistant will help.

I would also budget to do an oil change. It's possible it runs ISO-22 which is less commonly available than 32 and 46.

You need to be 100% certain everything is there because there will be parts that would never break and were never a service item that you just can't get. If you can see it run and help take it apart it will make a difference too.

When you connect it you need to make sure the pump spins the right way.

It's a fantastic toy to have at home, does it come with a jacking beam?

 

[tom2207]

oil seals are not a problem , even worn nuts are not that bad , as long as the rest of it is in good order be fine .
at the worst take the ram to a hydraulic place and they will do it for you for a few bob

 

[Spark plug]

Seals aren’t bad to do, the hardest thing to evaluate with lifts is the ropes, unless you know otherwise you have to assume they are as old as the lift.

 

[Barking Mat]

Evening, off to look at another one Friday, needs one flexible hose replacing.

So fingers crossed.

What wears? And excluding hydraulics what should i be looking at? In terms of wear?

Thanks as ever.

 

[DanZac]

As @Spark plug said have a good look at the lifting ropes and sheaves etc, ropes should be replaced every 5 to 10 years dependant on manufacturer, use and condition (all the weight is hanging on them). You need to be looking for broken wires, stretching of the ropes, pulling from the attachments etc.

Likewise the safety gear / slack rope equipment, it needs to function correctly (you won't be able to test it until its back together and you can actually trip it) so could be an issue if its in bits.

Some makes tend to crack around the drive on ramps and hinges, its common to see damage around the entry posts where people have hit them driving on, likewise under the platform where they've been lowered onto stuff. Sometimes see the guide shoes where they engage on the posts missing.

Other than that they tend to be pretty robust.

 

[Barking Mat]

As @Spark plug said have a good look at the lifting ropes and sheaves etc, ropes should be replaced every 5 to 10 years dependant on manufacturer, use and condition (all the weight is hanging on them). You need to be looking for broken wires, stretching of the ropes, pulling from the attachments etc.

Likewise the safety gear / slack rope equipment, it needs to function correctly (you won't be able to test it until its back together and you can actually trip it) so could be an issue if its in bits.

Some makes tend to crack around the drive on ramps and hinges, its common to see damage around the entry posts where people have hit them driving on, likewise under the platform where they've been lowered onto stuff. Sometimes see the guide shoes where they engage on the posts missing.

Other than that they tend to be pretty robust.

Superb, thanks mate.

So is there a locking systèm, when you're working on an elevated véhicule?

 

[Longhorn6120]

Superb, thanks mate.

So is there a locking systèm, when you're working on an elevated véhicule?

I’ve always wondered this too. I’ve known a trolley jack give way and let a 3 ton Cadillac come crashing to the ground, are there safety mechanisms in place that stop this happening with a 4-poster?

 

[qwakers]

yup, little cams the drop into holes as it gets raised.

 

[DanZac]

I’ve always wondered this too. I’ve known a trolley jack give way and let a 3 ton Cadillac come crashing to the ground, are there safety mechanisms in place that stop this happening with a 4-poster?

They will all have some form of safety system to stop it dropping, with different manufacturers using different systems. Ratchet and pawl is about the simplest with a pawl type arrangement on the post into which a locking bar engages as the table moves (as per qwakers post above)

There's also various other ways to engage and lock a safety mechanism in event of the lifting ropes becoming slack (rope or hydraulic failure). You often see an additional bar running down the posts onto which a lock bites if the ropes fail.

As with any lifting equipment it should be installed, maintained and inspected on a regular basis by a competent person who knows how to test the safety gear.

 

[Guzrik]

I always lower it back onto the four safety catches an take the tension of the lifting mechanisme.
In my case (KONI 3.5T) it is a 1x1 inch masive wedge pulled into a perforated u shaped beam, I am confident it could easily catch a falling vehicle at speed.
There are four ( one in each post) but since they can never be 100% alligned one will catch first and this is where it gets hairy.
Always make sure the vehicle is secured by wooden wedges on all wheels, I sometimes put 10 ton ratched strap on, otherwise the vehicle will start to roll off.
College of mine had this; car fell onto another classic and in a reflex he tried to manually catch it wich cost him a finger.

 

[Barking Mat]

Yeah, ooh, i'm just releflecting on thé safetyness of it.

 

[Barking Mat]

Well it's in the bag.

I've put down a deposit on it.

Checked it all over, banged my head.

Back in the next week or so with my stupid trailer to pick it up.

Thanks for everyone's advice.

Here's a rubbish photo of it.

 

[Guzrik]

Well it's in the bag.

I've put down a deposit on it.

Checked it all over, banged my head.

Back in the next week or so with my stupid trailer to pick it up.

Thanks for everyone's advice.

Here's a rubbish photo of it.View attachment 287590

Best money you ever spent.

 

[Barking Mat]

Best money you ever spent.

That's what i want to hear.

Thanks.

Damn, it was cheap too.

 

[Richiew]

You are living the life. Fair play.