Floors/Inner Sill (Ford Capri) Advice

[Retro Rust]

I was hoping to have a tacked in panel to show you today but with the intense heat there were a few hours I couldnt be outside in overhauls.

What I did try and do was work on the Toe Board. I started off by making a template of the entire area In case I needed to take more out of it that I first thought. I then cut out the first rotted away indentation then used it to mark then hammer a slightly shallower indentation that the origional. I'm not precious about this just thought I should add something.

After this I trimmed down the Toe Baord on the car to remove the first indentation and leave me with a kind of L shape section. This has taken me a while but the main section fits with a slight gap (although not for these photos annoyingly) . Also yeah I now see the indentation looks crap compared to the others but it'll have carpet over it.

The part that has stopped me really is where to cut it off at the bottom. As you can see in the magnet photo I've drew a line and cut above it in case I wanted to take out more.

This section Is pretty grotty and I dont know if I should even cut what I've made down further then cut more of the floor out and join in a bigger sheet? The floor seemed to overlap the Toe board so I was hoping to replicate that like in Wim's post on the Capri Power forum. Any advice as always welcome. Hoping to get something stuck in tomorrow.

 

[tom2207]

turn the bit you made over , get an old bolster , not sharp and put it on a block of wood andd go own the straight edges ,,, it will soon tidy up ,,, and repeat until you like it .

edges on the car where you intend to weld could be cleaner ,,, remember what I said way back about clean silver lines ,,, you need an edge , the more time you spend cleaning the less time you will spend chasing holes when you start to weld

 

[Onoff]

Get or make yourself some intergrips:

Pardon our interruption...

 

[Retro Rust]

turn the bit you made over , get an old bolster , not sharp and put it on a block of wood andd go own the straight edges ,,, it will soon tidy up ,,, and repeat until you like it .

edges on the car where you intend to weld could be cleaner ,,, remember what I said way back about clean silver lines ,,, you need an edge , the more time you spend cleaning the less time you will spend chasing holes when you start to weld

I did think that. Next doors are away for a couple of days, tomorrow so hoping to go mad with the grinder. Just a quick pass with a flap wheel to see if it was metal or rust. Thanks for the reminder though.

Get or make yourself some intergrips:

Pardon our interruption...

I definitely need some of them! I'll get some ordered.

 

[tom2207]

I did think that. Next doors are away for a couple of days, tomorrow so hoping to go mad with the grinder. Just a quick pass with a flap wheel to see if it was metal or rust. Thanks for the reminder though.



I definitely need some of them! I'll get some ordered.

gods no ,,, dont use a flap disc ,,, use a 1mm cutting disc , but dont use much pressure , a flap disc will thin down everything and make work harder , and they clog very quickly ,,, make sure you have gloves and goggles and dont take the guard off the grinder EVER . [ if you have to remove the guard off any tool your trying to use the wrong tool]

 

[Onoff]

Thread 'Intergrips'

Oct 19, 2017

I THINK it was in this forum I found a thread about DIY Intergrips for assisting with butt welding but for the life of me can't find it!

I've been playing with some 15mm square box section but think I might have to up it to the 1" I've also got.

For the "blade" I've been playing with regular hacksaw blades, might need to find something else for the 1" box but still around 1mm thick.

Would ordinary .6 / .8 MS mig wire be OK to weld the stud to the blade?

Anyone recall such a thread?

• Onoff
• Replies: 17
• forum: Home Made Tools and Equipment

 

[QuattroBro]

Get into the habit of clean, clean, clean! You don't want problems when welding with impurities so I'd clean back to bright shiny metal about 1" out from the cut.

Buy a couple of "Sharpie" marker pens for marking where you're cutting. Gunwash / thinners to wipe away any bitumen and cloths but move them away from you when welding...

 

[steveo3002]

are you going for overlapping panels ?

if you tacked that oversize bit in or a couple of screws , then run a 1mm disc around the edge you get a perfect fitting panel , tack as you cut so it stays put

 

[Retro Rust]

are you going for overlapping panels ?

if you tacked that oversize bit in or a couple of screws , then run a 1mm disc around the edge you get a perfect fitting panel , tack as you cut so it stays put

Not goin for overlapping just was rushing to get it to fit to take a photo. The bottom part I havent figured where to cut yet so left it big. Will have to get back to grinding it. Good idea about the tack screws.

 

[Onoff]

Don't leave any screws in! The MOT man will think you've screwed it and not welded it...ask me how I know! Admittedly the panel was brazed but slathered in underseal...

 

[NickW]

I hate to dampen your enthusiasm, but the outside edge doesn't fit any where near well enough to weld it in. It looks as if you haven't removed the remains of the old piece from the sill/A-pillar, which might be the cause.

I know it sounds wasteful, but treating this piece as a test/skill development would be sensible, especially as it doesn't have the necessary flange to attach its outer edge. Using it as is will cause you a lot of grief in the future. Instead, clean up what's left of the old flange and make a template that fits it perfectly - that will be easier if you start with three of 50mm(ish) wide card taped together. You could the attach your edge to the existing pattern. It is much quicker and easier to get a properly fitting template this way, rather than trying to do it in one piece. If an easy to make template doesn't fit well, the actual panel won't either. Don't forget you need to add another 15mm(or whatever a small test piece proves) to outboard edge for the flange. As that's not straight, practice turning it over on your current piece.

Although I would make the toeboard, I wouldn't permanently attach it I knew the inner sill and floor were repaired.

 

[bricol]

I had "Panelcraft" by Tommy Sandham out on permanent loan from the library as a student . . . what I should have done when I left uni was "lose" it and paid them for it - it took me another ten years to find a copy.

Many gas welding, but the principles of forming repair panels is the same.

Pardon our interruption...

 

[Morris]

This thread on Retro-Rides is panel making gold. Well worth the read.

Making panels....... | Retro Rides

We´ve got quite a few subjects covered here in the usefull threads department but the most important one is missing ;D How to make panels.... What we need is a metalwork thread where we

forum.retro-rides.org

 

[marlinspike]

The guy mentioned in that excellent thread had his own resto thread with panel making advice. I used that a lot when we first started. Building your own simple vice/metal folder is helpful too.

1962 Vauxhall Victor FB - Making Panels | Retro Rides

My friend Gordon bought this FB Victor several months ago, and it has been under wraps ever since, I had some time off work so decided to give him a hand get it kick started. The deal is I will carry

forum.retro-rides.org

B

Thread 'Simple Bender'

Nov 9, 2009

Today i have made myself a simple bender, i copied the design from a picture in a restoration thread on the RetroRides forum .
Its simple as its just a vice type grip, aimed at making floor to sill , chassis pieces etc , clamp the sheet in and bash it about a bit.

It isnt made to any particular plan , just sized to suit the materials i had at hand, which were 2 peices of 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/4" angle 32" long
and a length of 2" x 1.5" x 3/16" approx.

Now the hard part, as my only means of cutting the material to size is my cheap hacksaw that always tries to cut on the slant , and
a...

• Bash_25
• Replies: 28
• forum: Home Made Tools and Equipment

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