In the abscense of a garage at the moment, im renting a workshop at the local farm. Sadly, it seems the incoming electrical supply isnt up to much. Most stuff is OK, but the compressor is an issue. Basically, it struggles to start. The colder it is, the worse it gets, no doubt due to drag increasing on the motor. Clearly the right answer is to upgrade the incoming power supply. But not my farm or my building. Given the problem is only on start up, and just before it trips out at peak pressure, i only need short periods of extra incoming. Ive tried to find a solution, but not sure im using the right terms. Are the products avalable, such as a battery bank etc, that will, effectively support those peak loads? Im not sure im explaining it well, but hopefully the brighter minds than mine here might have some ideas? Im keen to avoid a generator as this is way to much messing about, though clearly, its an option. I hoping someone here has come up against this sort of issue? Thoughts?
Tesla power wall. Or a slightly cheaper option might be to find a used inverter and a few big batteries and a charger. A more practical solution might be to sell the big compressor and buy a couple of smaller ones or one with a twin motor.
But of hillbilly engineering but an impact on the fan nut to run it up before you hit the green button works Did it for a few times before I got an uprated breaker fitted. Takes the load off when it starts although yours seems to be more a mechanical issue as @premmington has said re oil. I think I changed to a D breaker and that did the trick. Electrician will assist further. Something to do with what it can rpull before it trips
Its a hydrovane, so i cant do that It does however work fine at work, so im resonably confident its OK. Farmer had the same issue with his, albeit less severe, when it was in the adjacent building. The outside light also goes off when i turn the compressor on. So all is not well.
Yes you can fit a sump heater - I have one on my Hydrovane. This a pad heater in the photo - on previous Hydrovanes I have had a BSP adapter - with a probe heater in the drain plug - this worked better.
As in the incoming on the far? Not sure. A few hundred feet? Its only this building that has an issue.
Interesting stuff. Is this a common issue with hydrovanes? You obviously havn't installed a heater for fun? Can you share what that actually is or where i can buy one?
if the lights are dimming its voltage drop due to cable size being to small .increasing it will overcome it but at what cost
The only issue you will get with oil with a hydrovane is "milking". These need to be run with a load of them - till they get stinking hot. I often leave mine running on "manual" for three of four hours - with it dumping freeair. If you do this - you will see the oil "clearing" thru the sight glass.
That was my assumption. Though im unable to see any meaningful reduction in voltage when checking it. Replacing the incoming isnt an option i have. Hence looking for other solutions.
I was just readng up on that. Should the gauge on the air end read zero when its not running? Currently it shows tank pressure. That said, i have the same issue as it approaches the 150psi cut out, it starts to pulse then trips itself out. Once its warm, its OK.
You found your fault! The airhead gauge on a hydronvane - should leak off after the airend has stopped rotating - you should also hear it leak down - thru the air intake filter. If the tank to airhead one way valve has failed or stuck - the airhead gauge will stay reading tank pressure (till the contents of the tank have slowly leak thru the airhead). I am sure you would have heard this thou?
